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Defender

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Defender last won the day on July 10 2016

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    http://www.petola.co.uk

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    Cheshire

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  1. Thanks for all the replies, admittedly I was hoping for 'buy this paint stripper and it will do the job', but as that's not an option I may have to have a think. They are nothing special as such just some Rockathon single bead lock wheels. I would like some double bead locks though, so if anyone has any double bead locks preferably ART or Hutchinson for sale I'd be interested, obviously not if they are plastic coated though đŸ¤Ŗ.
  2. Does anyone know a tried and tested method of removing plastic coating from wheels? They are chrome underneath if that makes a difference. Once removed what is the best way to paint chrome, can I just key the surface and undercoat and paint or do I need to do something in particular?
  3. Thanks for that 👍 Ok I definitely don't remember seeing anything like that! I will have a proper look next week though just to be sure.
  4. I will have to double check this, does it look like a join? I know there is something on the osr but pretty sure there's nothing at the front. I'm not near it till next week so will check then and take a photo.
  5. Thanks ,I hadn't realised that this was required but I think by pure luck I did do it in the right order of nsr, osr, nsf and osf.
  6. It has a disc brake back axle but there is no flexi pipes, every one is either copper pipe or braided hose.
  7. Fluid looks a good colour, the brake pipes have been replaced recently by the look of it. I did bleed the brakes yesterday and a tiny amount of air came out of two calipers. The pedal felt good after this and was normal. But after I started it and moved it the pedal went back to exactly as it was before. I haven't got the time to do it again today but would that suggest that air is getting into the system? Is this possible even though there is no leaks. I probably used 1/4 of a litre of brake fluid. Did I maybe not do enough even though there was no air in it?
  8. Ok thanks I will try bleeding all the calipers tomorrow. I don't suppose you have any pointers on how to adjust the pedal pushrod?
  9. As usual I am looking for some help from the more experienced on the latest project vehicle I have bought, it is a 200tdi 90 that had a TD5 engine fitted. It has had vented disks fitted on the front to presumably give an upgrade in stopping performance. And it does stop, it stops quite well but there is no feel on the pedal at all and only the last inch or so does any braking as such, the pedal is not heavy and does not require lots of effort to brake. I cannot see any leaks ect but the servo looks like two servos stuck together, so I am wondering (After a quick look on ebay) does that mean that the ABS servo has been fitted to a none ABS car? And could this be the problem? Or could it be the vacuum pump has failed. As you can tell as there's no leaks and nothing obvious I can see like hissing noises or cracks in the servo I really don't know where to start. Even though it stops really well I feel there is something not right here and I would like to sort it out.
  10. Hopefully should be getting a new project in the next few weeks and I can't afford a real SVX. So does anyone know who the original manufacturer of the SVX soft top roll cages was and where I could buy one aftermarket? A Google search showed Protection and Performance but this looks like a copy and they have not replied to my inquiry (Will try chasing them next week) and also Safety Devices but there is no SVX cage on their website that I can see when I follow the link.
  11. Ok thanks not heard of that product before so will look into it thanks 👍.
  12. You are right they are small. I've attached a pic but not sure how well you can see them. I see what you mean so spread the filler on the inside of the wing so it has something to grip!
  13. Ha ha yes that is an even easier option 😂 but I don't like the look of them! I'm guessing someone else didn't either which is why they have been changed back.
  14. Hi, I have a question about Defender body panels. Went to look at one recently and liked the Landy but it had at some point in its life had extended wheel arches fitted. The issue being it had been put back to standard arches leaving holes in the bodywork. So stupid question time: Is there an easy/cheap option because it looks a mess as it is. Current owner isn't very receptive to this being a major problem for someone else who wants a nice looking Landy (It is an off roader currently and this obviously doesn't bother them at all). I'm guessing the front wing outer skin could be replaced? How easy a job is this is it bolt on easy DIY job? But this will add to the expense as I'm assuming new wing skins aren't cheap and it'll need professionally painting ☚ī¸. I wouldn't fancy changing the whole rear tub either. But I'm guessing filling the holes in such a thin panel isn't going to last long. I know the best option would be to replace all the panels and paint it but I'd like to explore other easier and cheaper options if they exist at all. I'm hoping someone may have come across this before and come up with a solution that worked.
  15. Ok after some time researching today I have been able to answer my own question, the TD5 cross member does have threaded bolt holes as standard and is much more difficult to add a NATO hitch to looks like you need part code: KNK100090K There is also some info here, see forum post:
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