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Everything posted by Defender

  1. I didn't build it in the end! I would love to have done but things changed and I lost my storage/workshop and I was also worried about iva. Ended up buying another 90 so the 100 inch will have to remain a dream for now 😉
  2. Oh wow thanks for that much appreciated, great information!
  3. Thank you for the link I will have a look (I never thought to search build threads for garages!). The 100mm is the interesting bit that's pretty much what I need as the opening is 2700mm and the eaves are 2800mm. There's no room for a roller. So it looks like either side opening or sectional.
  4. I wasn't too sure which section to post this in so I hope this is ok. Now my Land rover stable is a little larger I need to replace my ageing wooden garage with steel building. The openings are going to be 2.5m wide by 2.7m high and i'm looking for some cheap and secure ideas for the doors? I don't want roller doors because of how much they reduce the head height, I'd like to be able to back a vehicle on a trailer in the garage hence the 2.7m height. So has anyone built their own? Do you have some pictures of the construction you wouldn't mind sharing? I really like the idea of using the polycarb panels to add light something like the pic below maybe (Just an idea at the minute so i'm open to all ideas please): frosted galss door
  5. Ok thanks for the help. Just to add another question what about the stumpy R380 with an LT77 to V8 conversion ring........ Will this be too short? I already have these components as they were bought for a 101 conversion but I sold the 101 before I did it. So really just trying to determine if I can reuse what I have or if I'm just making things difficult for my self. It would be great if I don't have to source more components.
  6. Quick question: If I want to put a V8 into a 300tdi Defender is the Short/Stumpy R380 the best route to go gearbox wise please?
  7. Thanks for the part numbers, the ESR4526 looks like the middle box I have from the pictures. Pretty sure there is another silencer after this though (will check). So assuming those parts are correct what should the front pipe from turbo to middle silencer be? I ordered ESR2297.
  8. I'm still not 100% sure which part is wrong, whether it's got the wrong silencer or the wrong front pipe. I pictured the only flange I found that fitted the silencer (no idea what it's off!) and you can see it's a mile out from fitting the front pipe I bought. The only other thing I thought is should it have a cat? Would that make the front pipe longer? I don't really want a cat and I don't believe it needs one as a requirement but I guess a 1998 may have had one as standard?
  9. Could this seriously be the issue? I'm not 100% sure on the make but the two flanges are definitely different sizes! I assumed I'd ordered something wrong. But couldn't find another part code. When I get a minute I'll take it off and measure it properly but the bolts will not line up. I could try this thanks but I think the biggest issue at the moment is the bolts on the flanges don't line up. Someone mentioned the back box could be bigger flanges on a Td5? Is this true maybe the back box is the problem and not the front pipe. Does anyone have a diagram of both exhausts for a 300tdi and a td5 to see if they are different please?
  10. Thanks for the replies everyone. Can I ask who the other companies you tried were please? NFU really don't seem keen to even give me a quote 😭.
  11. What have I done wrong! Ordered a front pipe ESR2297. 300TDI 90 on R reg. The flange from the front pipe to the large silencer bolts don't line up!!!!! The flanges also seem to be a slightly different size although if the bolt holes lined up I'm sure they'd go together. It also seems a few inches short and although I can pull them to meet it takes more effort than I'd like. I guess I ordered the wrong pipe but which one do I need? Not the best pictures I'm afraid.
  12. What do you do about insurance for large and valuable items and also tools, welders, etc items as a private user and not a company? I guess stuff like this isn't covered by the house insurance (certainly not a digger) and the value is scary when you roughly add it up. I also wouldn't like to replace everything in one go that's taken years and years to build up. So questions : 1. As a private individual how do you insure stuff like this? 2. Also I assume photographing everything is a good idea? Might sound a daft question but I guess I'm wondering how you prove what you have / had especially as some I've had for years so don't have receipts.
  13. Thank you that's exactly the type of thing I wanted to know. I'll look into getting a boost controller. Interesting information from Garret so I will set the alarm on the guage to that thank you.
  14. Ok thanks but I'm still a bit confused, to get more performance from a diesel I thought you needed more fuel and air? That article suggests giving more fuel but leaving the boost at 18psi. So is it saying the 300tdi won't live long with more than 18psi? Anyone running more that could comment good or bad? I'm also still not sure where to find a document on egt temps for a 300tdi, does anyone have a source please? Many thanks,
  15. Hi Everyone, I want a little more performance from my 300tdi Defender. I have bought a gauge to monitor EGT and Boost which has programmable alarms. This is fitted with a boost pin and timing spacer (These are the only mods). So some questions if you don't mind because I'm struggling to find definitive answers: 1. Am I right that the EGT alarm should be set to 750 degrees C? It will be fitted in the EGR blanking plate. 2. As it has a boost pin to take advantage of the extra fuel I understand I need to up the boost, what should I set it to? I think the Defender runs 15psi as standard and a Discovery runs 18psi as standard, if that's correct could I go to 20psi and will a 300tdi be ok with that? I could then set the alarm on the gauge to 21psi? Or am I way off with those figures? 3. How exactly do I adjust the boost, from what I can see it seems to suggest removing the pin and winding the rod towards the bulkhead. What I can't understand is how to get the rod back into the pin if it's shorter! Sorry I'm probably being really dim but I need some step by step instructions please.
  16. What actually happens when it becomes MOT exempt, do you have to sign something to state that you are then responsible for the roadworthy condition of the vehicle? Does anyone's insurance company actually ask if it's MOT exempt? There are allot of Unimogs registered as agricultural that don't need an MOT but have a much higher road speed than a tractor. I wonder how they go on in the event of an accident! I guess no one cares until it all goes wrong and they are looking for someone to blame then the vehicle that doesn't need an MOT would come under scrutiny with a fine tooth comb, even if it was the other drivers fault. I agree with Fridge that a test that was maybe not as detailed but checked the main points at a reduced cost would be great.......one can dream
  17. My 3.5 V8 was converted to LPG a long time ago and I don't have any paperwork for it. My insurance company have asked for a certficate that I cannot provide. What actually needs to be checked as such as there seems little information on any of the websites I found. The only LPG place near me only seems to do certain makes of install and just want to sell me a new system which I don't want to do at £3,000ish, although I do appreciate that the tank may need to be replaced if it's old.
  18. Yep it's a three pin one 589470 Found one of the wires to the switch covered in insulation tape and on further investigation it appears that the wire's have been joined, so it's looking like a bad connection! Thanks again for all your help everyone.
  19. My thoughts on turning it over with the coil disconnected was that it's not running at 1000rpm with the choke on but I see your point that any turning it over without oil pressure is bad. Thanks for the tips that is good advice, if it's not the switch that bar my come in handy. No it's not been serviced which is why I was confused as there's no reason for no pressure. Yes it doesn't sound noisy so i'm hoping it's just the switch. Yep I'm guessing as it's not really noisy it's got to be the switch. Good point switch is £40 and easy enough to change so I will start there, thanks. Thanks for all the replies. I didn't get chance to investigate any further today but will try over the weekend.
  20. Yep I'm hoping it's the switch or wiring too Ok thanks will try and see if I can prime it tomorrow and see what happens.
  21. OK thanks, I'm kind of guessing on the time it may have been less but I guess any time is bad. Would it have made a noise if this was the case because it didn't sound any different. How will I know after it's primed will it make a horrible racket?
  22. The engine has been stood for 12 months or more, started it today and the oil pressure light stayed on so I switched it off after 2 minutes. This has never happened before the light always went out. Should I try priming it and how can I do this on a 3.5 is it coil disconnected and turn it over? I'm waiting on gauge to actually check the pressure but is there anything else I can try in the meantime without causing damage?
  23. I am slightly disappointed that they are auto only but I guess that means there will be a new industry born for someone to retrofit a manual gearbox Can't wait to see one 😀
  24. Thank you all for the suggestions, I will check these at the weekend. I was hoping that with it being apart that all seals had been replaced.....but maybe not!
  25. So I have just bought a new to me 300tdi 90 which has been apart and fully resprayed. When I was going down the motorway at 50ish in the rain, water is literally dripping on my feet and it seems the passenger floor is also wet. I guess there is some seal missing but none that are obvious I can see missing.......any ideas please?
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