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Posts posted by Defender
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Does anyone know a tried and tested method of removing plastic coating from wheels? They are chrome underneath if that makes a difference.Once removed what is the best way to paint chrome, can I just key the surface and undercoat and paint or do I need to do something in particular?
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On 9/3/2023 at 4:07 PM, steve b said:
Does it still have the valve in the rear circuit? - down on the OSF chassis near the footwell.
Steve
I will have to double check this, does it look like a join? I know there is something on the osr but pretty sure there's nothing at the front.
I'm not near it till next week so will check then and take a photo.
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2 hours ago, Ibex94 said:
Remember to work through from longest pipe run to shortest
Thanks ,I hadn't realised that this was required but I think by pure luck I did do it in the right order of nsr, osr, nsf and osf.
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3 hours ago, steve b said:
Drum or disc on the back?
Clamping the flexi's should give a solid pedal with correct free play at the top, then release one clamp and check pedal , re-clamp and release another and repeat
Steve
It has a disc brake back axle but there is no flexi pipes, every one is either copper pipe or braided hose.
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Fluid looks a good colour, the brake pipes have been replaced recently by the look of it.
I did bleed the brakes yesterday and a tiny amount of air came out of two calipers.
The pedal felt good after this and was normal.
But after I started it and moved it the pedal went back to exactly as it was before.
I haven't got the time to do it again today but would that suggest that air is getting into the system? Is this possible even though there is no leaks.
I probably used 1/4 of a litre of brake fluid. Did I maybe not do enough even though there was no air in it?
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12 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
It's more likely you either have air in the system somewhere, or your pedal pushrod needs adjustment/is not suitable.
Ok thanks I will try bleeding all the calipers tomorrow.
I don't suppose you have any pointers on how to adjust the pedal pushrod? -
As usual I am looking for some help from the more experienced on the latest project vehicle I have bought, it is a 200tdi 90 that had a TD5 engine fitted.
It has had vented disks fitted on the front to presumably give an upgrade in stopping performance.
And it does stop, it stops quite well but there is no feel on the pedal at all and only the last inch or so does any braking as such, the pedal is not heavy and does not require lots of effort to brake.
I cannot see any leaks ect but the servo looks like two servos stuck together, so I am wondering (After a quick look on ebay) does that mean that the ABS servo has been fitted to a none ABS car?
And could this be the problem?
Or could it be the vacuum pump has failed.
As you can tell as there's no leaks and nothing obvious I can see like hissing noises or cracks in the servo I really don't know where to start.
Even though it stops really well I feel there is something not right here and I would like to sort it out. -
Hopefully should be getting a new project in the next few weeks and I can't afford a real SVX.
So does anyone know who the original manufacturer of the SVX soft top roll cages was and where I could buy one aftermarket?
A Google search showed Protection and Performance but this looks like a copy and they have not replied to my inquiry (Will try chasing them next week) and also Safety Devices but there is no SVX cage on their website that I can see when I follow the link. -
1 hour ago, smallfry said:
I was going to say the same but with JB weld.
Whatever you do, you are going to have to paint it, and matching that up will be difficult, but that depends on how good you expect it to be.
Ok thanks not heard of that product before so will look into it thanks 👍.
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25 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:
Whatever you do barring fitting wheel arch extensions, paint will be required, if you want to keep it cheap then just repair. I'm not familiar with the holes left by extended wheel arches but I would imagine they are not very big. A good quality body filler would hide these, just make sure the filler has a good key inside and outside of the wing ( spread it outwith the hole diameter on the inside to add strength ). The holes could also be filled with aluminium brazing, but that will depend upon how confident your feeling, tig would also work, although cost will be higher, obviously new panels will be the most expensive regards Stephen
You are right they are small. I've attached a pic but not sure how well you can see them.
I see what you mean so spread the filler on the inside of the wing so it has something to grip!
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41 minutes ago, L19MUD said:
Easiest would be to re fit extended arches?
Ha ha yes that is an even easier option 😂 but I don't like the look of them!
I'm guessing someone else didn't either which is why they have been changed back.
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Hi,
I have a question about Defender body panels.
Went to look at one recently and liked the Landy but it had at some point in its life had extended wheel arches fitted.
The issue being it had been put back to standard arches leaving holes in the bodywork.
So stupid question time:
Is there an easy/cheap option because it looks a mess as it is. Current owner isn't very receptive to this being a major problem for someone else who wants a nice looking Landy (It is an off roader currently and this obviously doesn't bother them at all).
I'm guessing the front wing outer skin could be replaced? How easy a job is this is it bolt on easy DIY job? But this will add to the expense as I'm assuming new wing skins aren't cheap and it'll need professionally painting ☹️.
I wouldn't fancy changing the whole rear tub either. But I'm guessing filling the holes in such a thin panel isn't going to last long.
I know the best option would be to replace all the panels and paint it but I'd like to explore other easier and cheaper options if they exist at all.
I'm hoping someone may have come across this before and come up with a solution that worked.
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Ok after some time researching today I have been able to answer my own question, the TD5 cross member does have threaded bolt holes as standard and is much more difficult to add a NATO hitch to looks like you need part code: KNK100090K
There is also some info here, see forum post: -
I'm a bit confused so reaching out in the hope that someone can help.
Before I start I should state my Defender isn't a military one. It's a 1997 civilian version. But I figured this might be the best group to ask.
I have just come to fit the NATO hitch and the holes in the cross member are threaded!!!!!
Is this normal?
I thought it was bolts that went all the way through with a flat plate either side as washers, but this obviously isn't the case on this one.
It is a very late 300tdi built on a TD5 chassis (not by me), so fuel tank is at the back, if that makes any difference.
I have tried to take a picture but not sure if it's come out very well.
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Thanks for the help everyone!
It was indeed Oslo Blue 👍
I agree this colour is weird in different light, it is very difficult to photograph too!
I do like it though 👌
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12 hours ago, landroversforever said:
Sadly on defenders they often are.
what’s the year?
It's 97.
I spoke to the paint shop and they said they have a way to match it without having the code 👍.
I'll have to trust them!
Although this does look similar: https://www.buzzweld.co.uk/lrc-644-oslo-blue-aerosol-paint-land-rover.html
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31 minutes ago, Anderzander said:
You do get oddities though !
have a look on the vin plate for the paint code:
Thanks I just checked and the paint code on the vin plate is blank 🙁
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Assuming it's Oslo Blue it wasn't an option for the year of vehicle.
I also don't have Microcat!
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I wasn't 100% which category to post this in so please move if necessary Admin.
I have bought a 90 and it needs to have some paintwork touched up.
The issue is I have no idea what the colour is, as it was already painted. I also don't believe it came out of the factory this colour, although the person I bought it from said it was a Land Rover colour but he also bought it painted.
I was told it might be Oslo Blue.
So I guess can anyone identify it or tell me the best way to?
It is a very dark metallic blue with blue glitter in it.
It's also really hard to get a good picture as it looks different colours depending on the light.
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I didn't build it in the end!
I would love to have done but things changed and I lost my storage/workshop and I was also worried about iva.
Ended up buying another 90 so the 100 inch will have to remain a dream for now 😉
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3 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
I lied, it's more like 130mm for the rails, mine are sitting ~15mm down from the rafters but it's probably possible to do a tighter job of it than I managed solo up a stepladder.
Just been out and waved the tape measure at it, the end of the tape is hard against the rafter:
Here you can sort of see the frame bolted to the rafters:
Loads more photos in the garage thread of course.
Oh wow thanks for that much appreciated, great information!
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3 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
I have a tall & wide roller shutter on my old garage, you lose about ~300-350mm above the door but there's more compact versions out there.
I have a Carteck sectional door on the current garage that lets me get the 127 ambulance in and it's lovely, it costs about 100mm of roof height (literally less than the thickness of the lintel above the door, less than a standard up & over door) and it's sealed and insulated (about 50mm thick) which is glorious. Over a certain size you need an electric opener, which is very bling and I haven't regretted spending the money. Just dug the order out, the door is 2750 tall.
Full pics & write-up of fitting it is in my garage build thread:
I can recommend these guys:
https://www.garagedoorsonline.co.uk/shop/Sectional+Door
Thank you for the link I will have a look (I never thought to search build threads for garages!).
The 100mm is the interesting bit that's pretty much what I need as the opening is 2700mm and the eaves are 2800mm.
There's no room for a roller. So it looks like either side opening or sectional.
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I wasn't too sure which section to post this in so I hope this is ok.
Now my Land rover stable is a little larger I need to replace my ageing wooden garage with steel building.
The openings are going to be 2.5m wide by 2.7m high and i'm looking for some cheap and secure ideas for the doors? I don't want roller doors because of how much they reduce the head height, I'd like to be able to back a vehicle on a trailer in the garage hence the 2.7m height.
So has anyone built their own? Do you have some pictures of the construction you wouldn't mind sharing?
I really like the idea of using the polycarb panels to add light something like the pic below maybe (Just an idea at the minute so i'm open to all ideas please):
frosted galss door
Plastic coating removal and painting chrome
in International Forum
Posted
Thanks for all the replies, admittedly I was hoping for 'buy this paint stripper and it will do the job', but as that's not an option I may have to have a think. They are nothing special as such just some Rockathon single bead lock wheels.
I would like some double bead locks though, so if anyone has any double bead locks preferably ART or Hutchinson for sale I'd be interested, obviously not if they are plastic coated though 🤣.