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Muther Trucker

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Everything posted by Muther Trucker

  1. thanks for all the replies guys... i fired it up and checked the gearlever - although the knob does need "glueing" back on, its not that... which is unfortunate, cos i have a feeling that would have been the easiest to fix... Western, from your link, am i right in thinking that if it is the clutch springs theres not much i can do about it except turn the stereo up and learn to live with it, but its not likely to leave me stranded by the roadside??? Les it does stop if i just slightly press the clutch pedal, is there any other ways to check the thrust bearing? and is it a big job to do??? thanks again guys!!
  2. anyone got any ideas what might be causing a really annoying rattle on my defender?? i know this might seem like a "how long is a piece of string" question, but here goes... its a sharp metallic rattle. it only does it when the engine is idling, either warm or cold. you can hear it really loud in the cab, but not in the engine bay or under the car (could be getting masked by the engine noise) if you press the clutch pedal it goes. if you increase the engine revs slightly it goes. any ideas where to start????
  3. i`ve ordered a set of terrafirma tf018 front springs (medium duty) and a pair of tf120 +2 inch shockers... snow permitting should be here tomorrow... thanks everyone 4 ur help...
  4. i`m after some springs for my 90, its been sat down quite a bit at the nsf corner, was thinking about going +2 inch to stop the tyres rubbing. all the kits like the britpart one on paddocks seem to give a +2 inch lift by keeping the same length spring, but increasing the lb/inch rating - standard 90 fronts are 175lb/inch and the lift springs are between 200 - 230lb/in although the uncompressed lengths are the same so it seems the "lift" actually comes from "less droop" of the stiffer spring, therefore they`ll give a harder ride???? which is not something i want... i`ve been looking at this page: http://members.shaw.ca/jbarge/springinfo.html and wondering if i can use springs that have a very similar rating to standard, but with an increased uncompressed length, thus having the same amount of bounce as standard, but higher cos of the extra length?? such as: NTC8477 Disco w/ winch kit Front 18.18 178 8.75 green/blue/yellow for the front, these are 3 inch longer, but only 3lb/inch stronger... can anyone see any problems with my theory? also would the 55lb/in difference make a lot of difference?
  5. I have an early 90, i`ve not had it long, but it seems to be "sinking" on the nearside... especially the nsf corner... i`ve had a quick look underneath, but nothing jumps out at me as being visibly wrong... tyre pressures are same all round, so i`m thinking its either a knackered spring (they are all seated properly) or a siezed shocker??? the front diff pan has also had a big whack + looks like it wont be long b4 it starts leaking, so i`m wondering if it would just be easier to put the complete front axle in off my 300tdi disco including the radius arms, springs + shockers but i think there are differences between the steering damper position + one of the bars, is this easy to overcome? also the 90`s drop arm balljoint is goosed would the disco one go on instead? thanks, mik
  6. thanks for that, i got one from my local landy bits place yesterday, and fitted it, but didnt have time to road test it, at least i know it should be the right one...
  7. am i right in thinking the defender and disco 300tdi engines identicle??? or did the disco 300tdi have the temp sender in the head, and the defender somewhere else??? i`ve just bought a 90 thats had a 300tdi fitted + the temp guage is all over the place, i`ve been through the polava with the disco 200tdi sender and the defender guage, so i`m wondering if this is going to be the same, or if i just get a defender 300tdi sender it`ll fit + work???
  8. anyone know what pressures should be in my tyres? they`re insa turbo special tracks, 265/75 r16`s and its a 90 truck cab... its a bit skittish on slippy ground, so i`m wondering if its cos its so light and the pressures are high??? thanks, mik
  9. does anyone know if a bulkhead off a 2008 puma defender will fit on a 1989 110 with a retro fit disco 200tdi??? i`m guessing there will be some holes need making/blanking, but is the overall size + shape of the "A" posts etc the same???
  10. interesting... so did you put your header tank in the back aswell???
  11. hello, (he says shuffling nervously...) i`ve never been in here before, please be gentle with me!!! i`m building a "bitsa" off roader, its got an early RR chassis shortened to 88 inch with a defender bulkhead, screen + front, series rear tub and 3.5 v8 on carbs with a 4 spd manual box... i`ve been toying with the idea of rear mounting the radiator, (its apparently a re-con 3.5 v8 RR rad, but RRs arent my area of experteese) but i was wondering how you lot thats done it went about it... i`ve seen them mounted on the rear cage, but i`ve never seen one close enough to see what you do with the hoses - do the run through the cabin, or on the chassis rails??? also does the standard water pump have enough power to circulate the water, or do you have to fit some kind of extra pump? and is there anything else to consider like extra bleed points in the system??? thanks all in advance for your help...
  12. i put the air filter here on my 90: but on my 110 i`ve currently got it coming straight out the turbo to a k+n type thing (for now): for the bottom hoes i joined the disco one to the original 2.5td hose...
  13. looks very nice, i`m thinking about doing it with my off road Series2a-Range-Defender... have you used cut down 90 sides, back door + roof?? any chance of some more pics of how the door fitted + the hinges etc??
  14. you could even get a body mount and fit it on the passenger wing so it looked like a second stereo aerial have a look here theres all kind of stuff... also ebay can sometimes have bargains...
  15. i`d love to, B) but i`ll either be unable to make it cos i`m working, or be unable to make it because i havent been working.... as usual...
  16. i know its not a landy, but it was my first attempt at camo, i used 2 hammerite garden shades, was good fun, i`m watching this thread with interest cos i`m considering painting my 110 csw in camo...
  17. the lift pump is here: just above the oil filter housing, its usually held on by a 13mm (i think) bolt on either side, but it could be allen bolts if ur unlucky...
  18. thanks guys wish i`d not asked now though... just found out i`ve spent a day and a half swapping my old 1.4 box for another 1.4 box - that leaks....
  19. thanks for that! B) next question, where would i find the serial number???
  20. does anyone know if there is any way to identify what ratio a transfer box is when the sticker beside the filler plug has long since disappeared??
  21. i got one from the scrappers for £15, its off either a pug or a citeron, its branded with both logos... it goes really fast, even when you forget its going + put ur fingers in it... it fits virtually completely over the rad (disco 200tdi), it had 2 lugs on the bottom which located in the lugs on the bottom of the rad, and i drilled the surround to go over the fan cowl studs at the top of the rad... its wired upto an illuminated switch on the dash and uses a big relay, a big fuse (think its 60amp) and some thick wire taking a feed straight from the battery so i can leave it on with the engine off if i need to... i have heard of using an electric fan off a motorbike on the intercooler, but time/money mean i havent had time to fully invesigate this...
  22. as yet, no... i was going to get it off + tout it around the forums a bit see if anyone wanted it.... are you interested???
  23. thanks guys B) i`ll try it as soon as i get this kink straightened out in my neck, dont much fancy laying on the wet floor in the cold today...
  24. i think you can still get them from craddocks: http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/product_s...=3&page=new
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