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Can't recommend a protrax training day enough! Great value for money, great fun and you're pretty much guaranteed to sustain no damage.

Does anybody have a step-by-step for this? Can I just replace the existing stake nut with two lock nuts and lock tab washers? What else do I need to do? I have tried to 'nip-up' the play in my hubs by tightening the stake nut, but I cannot tighten this to the point where I feel resistance turning the wheel. What am I doing wrong? Gareth

Sorry to hijack your post, but does anybody have a copy of fitting instructions for Exmoor 2nd row seats? Having looked on Exmoor Trim's site, it looks like the 2nd row now recline backwards, however the seats fitted to mine don't, so I think I'm looking for older instructions. I'm looking to remove the extension brackets as it's predominently children who sit in these seats, however I'm not sure what to do with the sprung release hook you use for folding them forward. All the second row seat backs seem fairly loose. What combination of washers would be best to use at the pivot point at the bottom of the back of the seat to prevent it from being so loose? Gareth

Nice one - cheers Dave! Any idea what size it is? Haven't removed the old one yet. Are they the same for engine sump and gear box by any chance? Gareth

Hi, Wondering if anyone can tell me whether I can obtain a replacement copper washer from gearbox on 1999 TD5 Defender 110 - I think the part number is FTC4112, easily on the high street / hardware store / car parts shop. Cannot find sizes/dimensions listed anywhere.

We've been really pleased with our 1999 110 CSW TD5. There have been a few things needing replacement, the worst of which was clutch at £460 at independent garage we bought her from, so may be worth checking out when (if ever) it was last done - this was an unwelcome repair just before Christmas. Not wanting to kick of the alternative fuel debate, however it may be worth doing some of your own research before you buy, and decide what you might primarily be running your landy on long term? With the price of diesel at an all time high and set to carry on escalating a 300tdi could be cheaper to run than a TD5. If it doubles by the end of the year I'm sure it'll become a hot topic. Bush Doctor - Selling point perhaps?

FYI 1999 T Defender 110, 9 Seater, J Fearn Chip upgrade and intercooler - no other mods, with wife on with provisional license , insured for 30k miles, insured with NFU for £450. Halifax wanted £1500 to cover. Found their level of service very good.

1999 TD5. Only modifications are JFearn chip upgrade and intercooler. No snorkel. Not checked air filter, hadn't occurred to me. Although this now seems a very obvious step! Doh! Not sure where the squealing is coming from, as it only happens while driving, and haven't been able to get my head right under there while doing that Doesn't feel like it's the clutch. I have tried transfer box in neutral and applied a little throttle with main box each gear sequentially and problem is not present, so figured it's probably not a belt (would that be the right train of thinking?). Squealing/squeaking does occur while heading down hill at speeds up to 35mph in 4th gear while applying no throttle. Nowhere locally I can try faster speeds for judder, however get the feeling judder would be present if I could try this test. Gareth

I hit a section of flooded road last thursday on my way home from work, would have been traveling somewhere between 40 - 50mph. Generally I not perturbed by a good old splash, but this one was long and deep enough for me to brake heavily. At the time, the seal on the panel under the cubby box was less than useful - self, windscreen, stereo you name it, was covered in some nice muddy water. Since I've had her, she's always squealed like a stuck pig for a few seconds fairly loudly, however since this incident she's squeaked and squealed intermittently. Generally not until I get to around 30mph in 4th and again at around 45mph in 5th (but not as noticeable). Tonight she's started to judder and feel unpleasant to handle getting towards 50pmh. Having searched the forum, I'm thinking this could be universal joints or seized hand brake. With the judder I'm erring towards this being UJ's, any ideas folks?

Err... Yes, so it is, my apologies. When I looked in to this last year, I couldn't find that info anywhere. One of the main websites linked to is http://www.childcarseats.org.uk when searching for this info, however I double checked last night and, although www.childcarsesasts.org.uk still do not have this info on their site, it is almost made clear here -http://www.thinkroadsafety.gov.uk/campaigns/childcarseats/faq08.htm It may be worth a moderator highlighting the fact that my previous post is incorrect, just in case somebody finds this post and doesn't read on.

I looked in to this some when purchasing my 110 CSW last year. There are four seats in the back, which all have lap belts. My yougest takes up the three middle seats in a lie-flat seat, so the other two sit in the rear. They both wear seat belts, however do not use safety seats. This is because safety seats are designed to fit facing either rearwards (for babies) or forwards once a child reaches the appropriate age & size/weight. My wife sits in the front passenger seat. The law states for a Child from 3rd birthday up to 135cms in height (approx 4' 5") (or 12th birthday whichever they reach first), Where seat belts are fitted, the correct child restraint MUST be used, however a child 3 years and over may travel unrestrained in the rear seat of a vehicle if seat belts are not fitted in the rear. Until a child reaches the age of 14, it is the drivers responsibility to ensure that a seat belt is being used. As Diff says, it's illeagal to sit on the wheel boxes when on the road. To put this in perspective, the back of your defender with no seats, is not dissimilar to the wheel arch of a transit van... If there's a seat available in the front, with a seat belt, then this MUST be used. If your vehicle had sideways facing seats in the rear, without seat belts and there was forward facing passenger seat in the front, the forward facing passenger seat must be used with a correct child restraint. Your other option is to fit a removable seat (such as those heavy things they have in Ford Galaxy) and just remove it when you don't want it in. Then your child can travel in the back with the dog. Did you know that most parts of Europe your dog would have to be restrained too. Jimmy_neutron - it is not illeagal for children to travel in sideways facing seats, however they should alway be given a forward facing seat first (if over 3 etc) with correct restraint. If in sideways seats in rear, they should not use booster seats and the like. The prime concern should always be, what would be best for all concerned if there was an accident. Gareth Edited by Mog: Take a look at post No 29 below...

Great! Thanks for the advice folks. I'll have a tinker at the weekend. Pleased to hear it's nothing to worry about. I'll post back my findings. Cheers, Gareth

Hi, Could somebody kindly advise me as to how I could get water in to my fuel - inadvertently that is. This evening while driving my fuel filter light has flickered on and off for some time. Owner's Handbook states this "indicates the presence of excessive amounts of water in the fuel" and to seek qualified assistance at my next earliest convenience (which would be now). Before you ask... I know the price of fuel is ridiculous but no, I haven't been trying to water it down! Should I be looking at replacing the fuel filter? If so, I've checked the technical archive, is it as easy as it looks? I'm a novice when it comes to tinkering with the workings an' all. 1999 110 CSW TD5. 95k. 9k travelled since last service. Cheers, Gareth

After fitting my sills, all door opened and closed fine, with the exception of the driver's door. This hung slightly lower and was rubbing the top of the sill on opening and closing. I loosened the hinge bolts, blocked the door up from the sill and retightened. That seems to have done the job. The workshop manual suggests to undo the check strap when doing this I think, however I'm not sure why that would be necessary, so didn't bother.

I totally agree. Much better quality than the 2mm. I've fitted wing tops, bonnet protector and sill protector all in Paddocks Deluxe 3mm Chequer Plate. Is it east to fit? Yes and No. It's depends on your level of competency. The cheap 2mm can be riveted on easily, however the 3mm stuff I've been buying is supplied with short M6 screws washers and nuts. The wing tops I managed with nuts and a lot of fiddling about taking bits off for access to hold the nuts underneath. I found it to be more of a fiddle than I expected. When it came to fitting the bonnet protector this had 11 holes IIRC, only two of which didn't go in to a cavity (flip the bonnet up and have a gander, that extra skin of metal (is this for support anyone?) is were all your nuts need to be held (as it were). For this I bought a rivnut/rivet nut/nutsert tool, and wished I'd bought it before adding the wing tops! Certainly the easiest way to add the 3mm CP if you want it to look right. So "Yes" it is easy to fit if you have the right tools, but "No" not as easy as it looks or should be, if you don't. Don't forget to seal where you've drilled. I also blocked up the end of the rivnut with the sealing stuff I used. Think it was Geocel Crystal something or other, which is silicone free so shouldn't rot. FYI - The bonnet protector was so I can stand on the bonnet as I only have short legs, the wing tops were to hide several years' worth of dents from being leaned on and the sills were bling (which seem to make the biggest difference incidentally). Good luck.