gerard

Just in case.... My 90 soft-top was stolen last last from Redgrave, Suffolk. (IP22)...They took the gates off and shoved a car out of the way!!! C108MHD Dark metallic grey (landrover) colour with full canvas top in dirty khaki. Wheels are black (ex military) Wolfs with Michelin XZL 750/R16. Chassis number SHALLDVAC7AA254147 Engine is 200TDI number 11L00711A Many thanks Regards Gerard

Hi I want to change the oil in my diffs etc. Is EP80W90 OK? Finding it difficult to get straight EP90. Regards & Thanks Gerard

What about the LED bulbs on ebay...are they any good? Seems as if you can pick them up at a reasonable cost. Regards Gerard

I've been thinking hard about this and looking a prices. I'm going to speak to the guy this pm about it. He is only charging £20/hr and estimated his labour at £1300-£1500. i think he was being cautious, which is understandable. There are a lot of other things that were mentioned...trailing arms the rear axle casing leaks. Track rods & ends have gone... Rear brakes and pipes etc. It was a snow-plough and the salt has done so much damage. I have seen another one, which I checked out yesterday. It has had £thousands spent on it being rebuilt, new bulkhead, rear cross member chassis is very sound etc. £2800 and it is mine. has a 2.5 N/A which is not ideal, but it is in amazing condition. It is a dilemma. Problem for me is the space to do the work. If I had a shed were the 2 could be side by side and the work done I'd do it. Finding the shed within a reasonable distance is the problem. I do appreciate all the help and ideas. Regards Gerry

The rough list is: Chassis Bulkhead Rear axle casing Track rods Fuel tank seat boxes and floors radius arm heavily corroded I can't remember the rest... I'm fine with tools and doing the work...welding is not my thing. I guess it comes down to time and the space to do the work. Of course you're right that by buying another one I'm probably buying into more trouble. I'm going to have to give this some serious thought. If I can find a shed near home that would be ideal. Thanks for the encouragement. Regards Gerry

I know a galvanized chassis would be ideal. There are a few other things required. It would cost somewhere in the region of £4K to do it. She wouldn't be worth that when done! Regards Gerry

I've been told today that my 90 has had it. Chassis no good! Pity we had got very attached to Mildred, just not worth the cost of doing the work. Well I guess I'm on the look out for another one. Regards Gerry

Thanks hairyone. I've set the timing to 22BTDC @ 2000rpm with the vacuum advance disconnected. It is much much better. I didn't realise about the 2 star.....seems along time ago!!! I set the carb up as per instructions too. Thanks so much for the help.

Well....maybe I was too hasty! The backfiring is still there on over-run. So I decided to start again. Set the dwell. Tried to get the idle at 600...not a chance. So I cleaned the carb & jets (one at a time so they went back where they came from). She idled like a dream. no lumpiness or coughs, just very smooth. Set the timing to 16BTDC at 2000rpm as the manual says (vacuum disconnected). Still back firing on the over-run and when you come to a stop the engine cuts out if the revs are at 600rpm, they need to be higher. Could it be the mixture in the carb? Is there an easy way to set this w/o a gas meter? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Hi and Welcome. Nice friendly place here....I'm a newbie too. Nice looking truck. Regards

Thanks for the help and reply. Having read a fair bit, I set the timing by ear and reduced the idle speed (my taco is bust...so by ear again!) Got rid of the back fire on over-run and the engine stops now! Checked with a timing light....no where near TDC but it works! I looked at the number on my carb....6/100. Different again.

The solenoid seem to have packed up. When you switch the engine off, it still keeps going, or turning over. The posts I had seen suggested the solenoids etc are expensive....a new carb seemed easier and less expensive...£110. Hassle factor I guess.

land Rover have 2 parts listed early type ETC6350 to engine E/N 17H08822C and later ETC 7144 from engine E/N 17H08822C. Weber on their list show the 2 http://www.webcon.co.uk/Downloads/Weber%20...ist%2012-05.pdf Yet everything else indicates one as per the Haynes manual. Hence the confusion! The later ones are more common and cheaper...hence my wondering what the difference really is?

Hi all I'm thinking of getting a new carb for my 2.5 petrol and have discovered that there are 2 different carbs listed. Weber 32/34 DMTL 6/101 Weber part no: 2267007301 Weber 32/34 DMTL 7/101 2267013700 Any one any idea what the difference between these is? I can find the 7/101 easy enough, but not the other.

Hi All...nice to meet you, so to speak. I will post some pics when I get a chance...not taken any yet! I've just been trying to get rid of the the backfiring on overrun...not much success. Timing and dwell are OK...so think it maybe a problem with the carb. Also she doesn't stop when the ignition is switched off...think the solenoid is playing up. Maybe a new carb is in order. I might get a local garage to check her...thy guys I bought her from don't do timing etc. I'm just outside Diss, Redgrave. Where are you other Suffolk boys?