kingrat

There is an earth point on the bulkhead in the engine bay that will probably be the cause, but check all earthing point obviously. Suspect it will be the earth on the bulk head. It is somewhere round the back of the header tank

Yeah I found that during the weekend converted to +ve switching. Pin out is then very simple to work out. But good to confirm in the write up I found searching Thank you everyone for the comments support and search. I knew PaulMc had to have written on this at some point

Thanks mate. From memory this has just an orange relay. I think I need to have a long look at this and work it out

They work for me ok. Balance with the beadlock I found to be an issue though

Look at the terrafirma beadlock rims. You don’t need the headlocks so don’t buy them but the offset is correct and fitting 35” tyre yourself will take about 15 mins per rim.

Search for econoseal crimp tool. That’s how I found mine. Amazon will have them for next day delivery

Hi. It’s been a while. Ok so fitted the facelift dash this weekend. Changed the fog light and hazard switches ok. Heated windscreen was on a Carling on off switch. Can the genuine front screen switch be made to work with the Carling switch wiring, or would it be easier to replace with the latching rear heated window switch? Thank in advance Paul

There is a earth block on the right hand upper bulkhead in the engine bay. Just double check it has a good contact. That will definitely stop it starting

Saw this 2 weeks ago on my way into brum.There were 3 jags, one broken down, and this ‘defender’ all stopped at a roundabout, all in disguise. I thought it was a new discovery variant. Not seen it since on my seemingly endless journeys into Birmingham.

I fitted that winch and shaft combination to a TD5. It only required slight work on the drive shafts and brackets to get it to route and work correctly.

Si, I had something similar after my wiring loom epic. The sounder kept chirping. At first I just thought I'd disconnect it and ignore it. I tried changing to horn only and it continued. Eventually I removed it and disconnected it, then dosed it with contact cleaner on both parts and then brake cleaner, then WD40. It has now stopped chirping and the alarm is set to horn and sounder again. Hope this is something similar. Paul

Ok. It sounds like in your frustration you dropped the power to the AS10 alarm unit while the vehicle was immobilised. This causes the ecu to become immobilised, and can be a pain to sort out. You will need Nanocom or test book to sort this. The alarm sounder only going off from memory is a selectable function within the alarm setup accessed once again from Nanocom et al. Might help if you gave your location. Cheers Paul

Nick, cheers for that. header 0550 is the one. bolted it to the bulkhead and guages sorted and started to crank. Unfortunately the ECU had gone immobilized and would not learn securityno matter what I tried, swapped it out for a spare and hey presto, engine started. Checking things over I now have no headlights, which turned out to be a mega fuse blown. so now all sorted. I'll be happy now cos I can finish modifying the PTO winch I bought when I took time off work to do the loom.

Unsure will look. Wierdly I have 10v on both earths to the diagnostic socket when ignition is at acc. If i briefly drop that to ground everything starts correct itself. I think I need to understand the 10v urgently. Just realised that that awkward white earth block has been neglected to be bolted back onto the bulkhead tho while I was getting P****d off, but did not remove the earth to the xfer box

To cut a long story short I aborted swapping the bulkhead loom after finding that some of the engine bay plugs did not mate up. So back in with the old loom. However, I now have a defender whcih has symptoms of a failed starter solenoid pack, a diagnostics socket which looses power when the ignition is on, a fuel guage which does not read, and a temp guage which read red hot. I have the original msb ecu so not wtrong map, and have also tried an nnn with a defender 110 map (the map ending in 5). I'm assuming I must have disturbed something in the ecu plug, and or have a dodgey earth somewhere. Does anyone have any ideas at all?. Spent 4 days trying to sort this so far so feeling a little reagged now. Cheers Paul

Just tried to order SLC000010PMA from Guys Salmon and have been advised that it has been superceeded by LR031386. Hope this saves someone from being confused in the future.

Increasing the gearing and adding a clutch could be done I think. The clutch would be an easy addition. I think at the end of March it will be time to have a serious look at this. It will also give me time to source a cheap ACE pump and clutch.

Thanks guys, I just wondered as it would need no modding to fit to the engine. I'd better keep an eye out on fleabay for a pto winch or pto driven hydro.

Just thinking about this as the work to install correctly on the td5 is minimal. The pressure output is 135 bar so should be up to it. Any thoughts?

I used a standard off the shelf filter head, and ported the fuel ways out. It has worked fine for quite a while now, just transfer the bits out of the fuel ways from the old one. Cost a lot less than the Land Rover part.

buy it in the carrier from Gwyn Lewis (~£90) and pay for an hours labour to fit at any garage.

OK so I've ported out the fuel flows and its running well. So really looks like this has worked for me.

Ok so got time at the weekend and removed the housing. Standard setup 2 ports flow through, 2 port drop though, so I look at the porting and its different. The old housing is crumbling like pastry so I decide to take the plung and remove all the pipe fiiting and fit to the new housing. One pipe has a 'plastic flute' on it which destroys itself due to the smaller flows, however apart from that all the pipe fittings go ok. Refit the fuel pipes and bleed the air. All ok. Start the engine and it runs fine, but pump is noisey due to air still. Now runs ok with still a little air in system, but no fuel leaks. Will run it around a while now as I need to take the kids to a BMX race this coming weekend at Birmingham, but it looks like I've saved £120. Need to have a thing about whether to port out the fuel flows and figure out what the orange rubber bit was and if its needed. Paul

Halfords do a nice short impact socket for £9. Rattle gun would not shift mine due to the fact I think it was used as a launch tug for United Utilities and was full of rust. I even came close to taking the carrier off, but chickened out due to the afore mentioned rust threat and getting snapped bolts drilled out in that position.

I think it should be on everyone's to do list as soon as they take ownership. Its amazing the ill's it cures.