alfredenewman

ihave in the past used a fire extinguisher the h2o type you can remove the top fill up with water and re charge using some one elses conpressor.also fly screen mesh in front of the rad works well you can carry a few if you want taking up no space.if you havent got an electric rad fan you can turn off when in deep mud the belt driven fan will still drag alot of craaaaaap into the rad core.also the heater flat out really helps.

cheers chaps all sorted got one happy bunny ,thanks for the imfo and thanks to simon for supplying the controller,wher else would i get that service.

i got mine from the usa saved about £ioo per unit and didnt get asked for any import tax.

just trying to suck nsome brains out there. i am at the moment trying to repair a small golf buggy to give to a friends disabled brother to enable him to go off the tarmac.the buggy has had an electricl fry up , the motor is still good ive had it running both ways , the hand controll[ a varaible resistor and reverse button apear to be ok.but the motor controller made by curtis is defo us.curtis want an arm and leg for a new one and ther price makes it a no go .does any one have a 12 to 40 volt dc 110 amp or close motor contoller or any good advice cheers merrick

on petrol engines we used to do them with the head on by taking a plug out and putting a lenght of nylon string down the plug hole then winding the engine up to tdc where the string compresses against the valvethen using a lever type valve spring compresor remove collet and spring slip a new stem seal on and replace spring and collet .it did not take long i dont know how much clearance you have between your valve and piston if its not alot you might get away withremoving cam and just tdcing the relevent piston good luck its worth a shot

silly me i meant castor not camber,but i still think on the front end with lifted susp you have a choice dodgy on road stearing or good steering and shorter prop life using castor corrected radius arms. on the rearif the cranked arms are made to incline the nose up towards the trans box all well and good .the bushes def will last longer with corrected arms .

correct me if im wrong but i always have thought that cranked trailing arms and camber corection radius arms return the nose of the diff back to horizontal therefore putting more angle and hence strain on the prop.

tiger seal the proverbial poo on a blanket

i missed meet out

cheers guys will order some now ,will buy you a cup of rosie the next time we barry ta merrick

any body know the thread size for seat belt retaining bolts they i believe standard world wide, they are not 10m course but could be fine 10 or 125 pitch but i have been told they are all 7/16 unf i dont have any nuts to try ,any idea i nead nylocks for obviouse reasons ta merrick

i thought a rear wash wipe was called a bidet

ive done more or less what three sheds sugests except using 2 bateries [12 volt] wired in parallel making them effectivly one big battery the two alternators are different and are fed power direct from ign switch via a fuze through 2 astra wing reapeater lamps mounted on the dash ,all seems to work well with no probs so far.

bear in mind the hazards workn with ign off indicators dont so you have 2 suplies

im not condoning it buts a common dodge in the motor trade for a car with abs probs to wire the abs light upn with oil presure light solving the dash prob but nothing else.

it goes in hot at the top cools as it goes through and down the rad and out via the bottom hose i think you are air locked somewere carry on trying different bleeding methods good luck

i second that very good value

moogue if you ever get fed up with your fella post the news on here and watch your pm box i wont be alone with my application

i dont think the theiving scum bags need any lessons from us with regards knicking our pride and joy,they do it a lot faster than you can imgine the methods get passed from one scumbag to the other extra locks bolts and chains etc slows them up a bit and moves them on to easier targets.

the early 110 cvs are 23 spline cvs your shafts are 32 spline[if they fit your rr cvs] so i think its back to square one

you beat me to the post your 110% corect most of the later sus have the chamber underneath so its a different kettle of piranas

its a bit of time since i worked on su,s but you shouldnt have to remove the carb just the fuel line and the top screws remove the top clean up valve and replace .

because they are alot stronger no problem coverting yours to discs search the forum for diesel jims step by step instructions a doddle and doesent cost a fortune

you can also end up in a spiral of problems if the rad is externaly blocked by mud the hot air is not conducted to the viscous coupling the fan wont engage properly engine over heats h/gasket blows and on and onwithout realising the original problem good luck .