First_Fleet

Anyone know the whereabouts of Frank Elson these days? I had heard he was on the sick list a while back but can't track him down with any certainty, just a lot of maybes. Thanks

It should be easy to determine if you blow though the 3 branches. Probably the common branch won't blow back but will blow forward. Simples.

Why not remove it & check?

When you refit them, wipe a smear of light grease over each pin & next time they will come off easy. They will also refit easily this time around as well.

I trust you greased it after you dismounted.

Stu, I'm not sure MS Paint can give you sizeable, neat arrows. Maybe it can but I've never found them. I know PhotoShop can & I think it's what your presentation needs to do it the justice it deserves.

Yes, very good post. I wish I'd had it a few years ago. The only thing I will suggest is some red arrows highlighting certain screws, fasteners etc that you mention. Otherwise, 12/10.

So long as you can get some wheel slip (shouldn't be hard ) you should be ok otherwise you can get windup which can bugger up the drive train. Slippage allows the train to stay free.

G'day Todd, G'day Dave. Is that switch one of those that screws in? Could it have unscrewed a tad?

Are you sure that isn't the Radio Security Code? I wanted a spare & the local Locksmith cut one for me no dramas.

A rusty 6' x 4' sheet of corrugated iron + 50 Tek screws should just about do it then.

Yes Max. he may just remember his gaff.

Which ever LR Designer that decided a "Sunroof" was essential on a vehicle in one of the wettest countries in the world that reputedly hardly sees any sun, needs a half shaft inserted up where it hurts most.

Inspect Lamp connections for burning as well as all lamp earth points.

Idle air control valve on the rear of the OS engine bank is a favourite. Remove, clean with carby cleaner, oil spindle & reset distance. Also check that it's plate is tight & sealed (3 screws) Electronic contact cleaner jetted into the AFM Bypass canal to clean the hotwire is another favourite. (why LR did not select a self cleaning hot wire model is beyond me. Some manufacturers do use those. A higher electric current flows through it at switch off of ignition & supposedly burns off any airborne carp) One suspect I found recently ( can't prove it yet) was the cleaning of the hard to access 3 pin plug under the throttle body to the Throttle Potentiometer. It had never been touched since vehicle assy in '95 & I suspect needed the pins & plug hitting with Electronic Contact Cleaner. Seems ok now anyway.

Being in Air Conditioning for many years, I contemplated that one before it could happen, but not for the corrosion issue, more the friction & rubbing a hole in the pipe. However, I did treat & seal that area before fitting the clamp back. You have to wonder what grade of moron would design & allow that to be fitted to a flexible ally pipe. The bracket is not very substantial in the first place.

If you only just bought it, how did you inspect under the bonnet before handing over the dosh? Bit of a worry that.

Just pray you got the tiny spindle in the hole & not to one side, or it will chew it out after a few kms.

Those tits/pizzles that cipx2 mentioned actually pull out if you get some pointy nosed pliers in the end. That's where the carp gathers, so remove & clean & refit. Jobs a goodun.

Aahhh, that'll be the Closed Loop type of heater then?

But why is it winding up in the first place? He said it does it on road. That's not normal, unless someone is fiddling with the CDL lever. From what Silverbake has said, it appears like more investigation is essential, imho.

As it has now been replaced & may be possibly used as a future spare, I suggest you try a bit of gradual heating with a blowlamp/oxy etc while trying to remove it. Maybe soaking it with some WD40 or similar beforehand may help the process. ****** NB Don't forget there are hard to find seals joining the 2 x halves though.

You could look at this & see if it's worthwhile. The bloke who wrote it is ex (?) RAEME. Jack repairs

Two or 3 pins refers to the pins on the Ignition Amplifier, normally clamped to the rear of the dizzy body although yours is probably near the coil.

I'm not familiar with your window setup, but is there any way you can pack a shim of vinyl or cardboard behind the seal as a temporary fix as well as pinning it down conclusively? We used to do this on domestic refrigerator doors years ago, except the cardboard strips had been varnished.