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Paddy_SP

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  • Location
    Mid-Devon

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  • Interests
    Cars and guns and bikes and other Big Boys stuff...

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  1. Yes, that was my plan - expensive stuff though!
  2. The problem is that the part that needs cleaning is almost inaccessible due to the combination of a narrow gap and internal ribs. My mate uses Sikaflex 292 on his boat and swears by it, so I may purchase a tube of that (if I can get a mortgage on it, that is...).
  3. There doesn't seem to be a problem with adhesion to the glass - it's the damned plastic that's causing the problem!
  4. I bought some Masterbond windscreen adhesive - but although it sticks to the glass, it just falls off the plastic. Anyone know what LR used originally?
  5. I had to do some work on my 110's doors today and was rather unimpressed to find that the PU adhesive that I'd previously used to bond the window clips to the glass had failed. I don't remember exactly what it was, but it's white. So - is Tiger Seal the preferred solution, or is there some other product I should be looking at? As ever, any help would be most appreciated!
  6. Agreed - but there's not a smidge of salt anywhere near it, so perhaps it was off a freshwater vessel?
  7. I have an old capstan-style winch here that is taking up valuable shelf space - as a result, I've decided to put it up for sale. I have absolutely no idea what make/model it is though, so don't know how to describe it accurately for the purposes of sale. I'd therefore be most grateful if anyone here who recognises it would be so kind as to tell me what it is! It's rated to 90 kg. SWL, and 130 kg. test load, so I'm assuming it's for something like a trailer? As ever, any help would be most appreciated - especially with a rough valuation!
  8. I've now heard back - the settings haven't been changed, so I clearly need someone in Devon who has a Nanocom to switch the relevant value. Any suggestions?
  9. That's a good question - I'll see if he knows what was done to his truck when he did the conversion!
  10. I've been loaned a D2 while my mate is off abroad - one of the things he never managed to sort out with it is that the dash symbol for the ride height comes on randomly (the yellow one with the up and down arrows), despite the fact that the air system was ditched sometime ago when it was reverted to proper springs. I'd like to fix the problem, so was wondering if this is a known issue, and if so, whether there's an easy solution, such as pulling a fuse? I don't know anything about these new-fangled Td5 jobbies... As ever, any help would be much appreciated!
  11. As I have a stripped-out 300Tdi loom - albeit from a Disco, that shouldn't be a problem! Is it easy to recognise?
  12. Thanks for your thoughts - I'll try implementing the circuit as shown; any idea where the resistor and diode live on a 300Tdi (if they're in the clocks I can steal them from a spare set I have!)? My instrument pack has a very good earth, by the way!
  13. Back along I fitted a two-wire alternator as my mate had a brand new one that he let me have super-cheap (since my rebuild was swallowing every penny I had). I'm now at the point where I want to finish the wiring. The 'thick' terminal is clearly the main battery feed, while the 'thin' one is obviously for the indicator lamp. When I run the engine, the indicator wire shows around 6 volts at tick-over, so as the battery charge symbol on the Td5 dash is a 'negative on', the symbol stays off when the engine isn't running, and comes on when it is. I've tried wiring a separate 12v bulb with the indicator lamp wire connected to one side and +12 volts on the other, but once again, this only comes on when the engine is running. It appears to be charging OK, as the voltage goes up when I rev the engine. So my question is whether anyone here knows a way I can get the charge light working?
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