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Paddy_SP

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About Paddy_SP

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  • Location
    Mid-Devon

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  • Interests
    Cars and guns and bikes and other Big Boys stuff...

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259 profile views
  1. Plug Tap.... Engineering

    If all you want to do is clean threads out, then don't worry whether they're plug, second or taper taps - just buy whatever ones come your way (like at an autojumble or car boot sale) and simply grind the ends off. Depending on what Land Rover you have, you'll need them in at least 5 mm, 6 mm, 8 mm, 10 mm. and 12 mm They go a lot bigger in certain places, but those are the most common sizes.
  2. Tell me about it - my Defender project has taken years longer than it should have for the same reasons. As an ex-racecar engineer I can't abide corrosion, so fate really stuck it's knife into me when it got me into Land Rovers. Among heaps of other things, I've re-made half the damned panels in stainless steel to ensure they don't turn to white powder in six months...
  3. Rubber Hinge Inserts?

    Thank you, that's most helpful! And yes, they probably are nearer plastic than rubber - having left them in place though, I can't say for certain!
  4. Rubber Hinge Inserts?

    I bought four later Td5-style door hinges for my 110 at one of the Malvern spares days - these had rubber inserts where the forward fixing bolts go - they're coloured red or green depending on whether they're thick or thin (i.e. for the upper hole or the lower hole). I then bought some more hinges to make up the eight I needed, but they lacked the inserts. I can't see what the inserts are meant to do, and I can't find them on any parts lists anywhere. I'd therefore be most grateful if anybody here can tell me what they're for and if they're obtainable!
  5. Nearly lost the Defender!!!

    Rebar (depending on what grade you're referring to) is generally nowhere near as hard as most grades of titanium unless it's been quenched or is made from some weird recycled steel scrap! You used the term 'inflexible' though, so do you actually mean stiffness? If so, the stiffness of a material is directly related to its molecular weight, in other words, if there were two similarly-dimensioned pieces of material, one made of ti and the other of steel, the former would be approx. 55% less stiff (give or take a bit depending on the exact chemical compositions of both) than the latter.
  6. My boy, Rufus (a Korthals Griffon), has a dog bed permanently bolted into the Disco behind the front passenger seat - in the first photo, however, he's decided to lie in the front seat instead. He goes more or less everywhere with me, but especially loves 'helping' me in the garage while I work on the Defender. He is particularly superb at running off with bundles of cable ties, and makes an excellent job of shredding any cardboard boxes I don't stash away on high shelves. He drives me up the wall with his constant whining, which translates as 'Dad, stop all this fooling around and let's go shooting' - but he's my boy and I love him to bits...
  7. Nearly lost the Defender!!!

    One doesn't normally hear the words 'titanium' and 'soft' used in the same sentence! Ti is very similar (in the workshop, not the lab) to stainless as regards hardness, so would be both light (55% of the weight of steel) and 'strong'.
  8. Turbo upgrade

    I've recently fitted one of these to my 110, but as I haven't driven it yet, I can't say how it performs!
  9. Electrical Component Under R/H Front Wing?

    Sorry - only just seen this... I will be custom making the loom using my own format as it's so radically different from the stock item that there's little point in attempting to follow the originals - also - and probably more to the point, I don't have spools of all the correct colours (and as the damned thing has cleared out all my cash, I can't afford to buy them...). So long as I properly document the result, it shouldn't be an issue!
  10. Electrical Component Under R/H Front Wing?

    Thanks, but as I'm constructing a loom from scratch I don't have the aforementioned blue/red wires!
  11. Electrical Component Under R/H Front Wing?

    Yes - that's the blighter - at last I can be sure what it is; many thanks for taking the time to post the photo!
  12. Electrical Component Under R/H Front Wing?

    Ah, thank you, Gentlemen - that is an excellent suggestion! I looked at the dim dip resistor on the parts list, but as it didn't look anything like it, I assumed it must be something else. Luckily I won't need such a thing with my new LED lights.
  13. As per the thread title, I'd be most grateful if someone would be kind enough to let me know what the electrical component under the r/h front wing is. Mine (a '93 110) is so corroded that I can't work out what it is, and there appears to be no reference to it on the official parts list. It looks a bit like a ballast resistor, but since I pulled the vehicle apart some ten years ago, I don't have much to go on!
  14. Alternator Wiring Issue...

    Sorry Chaps - been busy - thanks for your input... Anyway - I've finally solved the mystery. In desperation at not being able to get any sense out of it, I removed the alternator and buzzed through all the diodes. One was open circuit in both directions, so it was a dud unit after all. Having expended much effort (I had to machine up a new stay bracket as the mountings were different), I've now fitted a Ford Escort 70A alternator. And guess what - the warning light now works! My mate who I bought the original alternator off (for next to nothing) was good as gold and replaced it with this one for free.
  15. Alternator Wiring Issue...

    Many thanks - that backs up the info I'd found elsewhere - as a matter of interest, what cross-reference did you use to find that link, as it doesn't show any of the part numbers marked on it, and yet it looks identical!? Wired up either way (L or S to battery) it still doesn't work though...:(
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