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Eightpot

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Everything posted by Eightpot

  1. Last week I found a note written in felt pen on the back of 2 door range rover armrest reminding someone in colourful language to cut the blinking moulding knob off the foam before sending it down the line - and there's a load of blues/villa football banter inside the roof off my rangie ambulance 🙂
  2. Only South Africa and Namibia - they'd been galvanising the series vehicles there for a while as well.
  3. Missed goodwood out this year, love that show but at least I haven't got to walk past that cammo defender again - seriously LR, you can only keep a drum roll going so long before lifting the curtain, but maybe we'll all be amazed when it's a completely different shape at launch. And has a split screen, external hinges and a rusting rear crossmember 🤣 I wonder if it can match the last & arguably best Defender launch in the early 90s when LR sold 110 station wagons, with 200tdi engines, galvanised chassis & bulkheads, air con, long range fuel tank, rev counter and four speaker stereo, velour seats, soundproofing, luxury carpet, bull bars and cubby box. Unfortunately didn't sell them in the UK though, where it might have been useful 🙄 but I got one 😍
  4. Imagine classic car shows of the future - blokes stood round a rebuilt ecu with its cover propped up and displays in the main arena of eprom flash upgrades Noooooooooooo 😭
  5. If you get into a P38 now, all the hitech wizzy features, like an electric seat or a cd player with big speakers and maybe a heated walnut steering wheel, and a tiny lcd display showing mpg look positively antique. Thus it will be with the new car, feature and fashion led. Short lifespan thanks to outdated tech, miriad ecu's, servos, actuators, sensors, probably using compact engine and transmission design a la Disco 3,4,5 which makes simple maintenance a major problem (just changed an inlet manifold on a tdv6 - what were they smoking) and quick churn to new models. In a nutshell, the 'Defender' is finito, same as the Mini, Fiat 500, Beetle, but I don't mind the looks of the new thing, assuming it's the same as the 'spyshot' of the thing they accidentaly left the keys in the ignition of to light the dash up while the driver nipped off for a coffee.. might get one in ten years time when they've ironed all the faults out though 🙂
  6. Haven't used them but a guy from D&A Steering Ltd in Birmingham visited my workshop once a few years ago, pricelist looked good and they're still going which is usually a good sign..
  7. Yesterday I thought I'd get in quick and modify my 110 to the new look before anyone else. So I've taped a printout of my landy to the centre of the dash. So far it's working pretty well and gives a visual representation of the vehicle dynamics. If I'm driving on a rough road it shakes up and down. At night it went dark, and this morning it was nice and damp. It even showed the hvac was working correctly by fluttering slightly when I put the heater on full. Development cost 5p, will still be working in 10 years 🙂
  8. If I remember correctly, the alarm ecu opens the earth path for the starter relay - fixed a non responsive alarm ecu a while back by just earthing the solenoid and job done.
  9. Metalic or mica paint contains flakes which reflect the light, if you brush paint it you get very obvious brush marks - its also a mat finish, the gloss comes from clear laquer coats on top, which again doesn't suit brush painting. You can hand paint (with roller or brush) using enamel paint (1k polyeurethane) in solid colours, if you want to keep it silver it's best to take it to a bodyshop.
  10. I know - he's bypassed us all and flown south for the summer ⛈️😩
  11. Where are you staying at the mo?
  12. They come out easy enough generally. Just be careful your guys are actually good with electrical work if you're going to move away from standard stuff. In my long experience in dealing with cars and mechanics in SA, vehicle electrics are not a national strong point to say the very least.. and don't go for generic african stuff bodged to fit - if you can't get the right senders, stick to standard. Put a post up on SA4X4 facebook page, couple of guys on there should be able to point you towards a vdo stockist.
  13. Looks like Zambizi silver. Don't be tempted to hand paint it. At least not in silver.
  14. I use a lot of Britpart exhausts and not had a problem in ten years. For the price I don't mind if it needs changing every few years, though I've not binned one yet- the cars tend to get changed or modified before an exhaust gets old.
  15. Therein will lie the nub of your future dissapointment I think - is it likely that LR are going to diverge and start building utility vehicles? Wouldn't make much sense, and they don't need to. Did they make as much money on a utility spec Defender as a fully loaded Disco 4? Nah. Do most new car buyers want small rims and massive profile rubber - nope, and that's what will drive development, demand. Even Range Rovers and Discos started out with proper suspension, 16" steelies and wind up windows but I doubt we'll see that again.
  16. You could use a simple folding leg arrangement - I'm thinking of the simple type of hinged folding struts you have to secure the legs on a camping table that locks under slight tension (can't think what the proper name is 🤔) , maybe with a sliding collar that slips over the joint. I'm sure a buddy of mine used that setup on a big 130 camper roof.
  17. Not half bad still means the other half is terrible though! 😄 Actually looking at those recent pics LR released from Kenya, they've removed the false sides and it's not actually showing much of an interesting line - unless its another bit of disguising..
  18. Followed one of the shorty test cars today. Having a closer look it seems the rear sides, roof and bonnet are heavily disguised with bolted on flat panels. I guess it may have the rounded defender style shoulder-line (hence the disguised door waistline) defendery bonnet and sloping roof under all that board. Might not be half bad underneath?
  19. I reckon it would have got a bit further up if the traction control let it get a bit of a run up as well.. - don't think the driver was helping much either, probably had it on the wrong setting
  20. Just having a mooch at some Russian off road mucking about on youtube and came across this one with a RR SVX vs some soft roaders and an FSO - I think I'm still pretty happy with my beam axles and lack of traction aids! (Didnt show the defender which was there for some reason, would have been a good comparison) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v_ZPwm9vsGs
  21. So I'm working my way down a rocky track with a bit of sideslope, I've got a full tank of fuel, a jerry can or two plus a couple with water, another 200kg of food, beer, camping gear, spares and tools and a roof tent up top, just normal top-heavy overland stuff - it's raining a bit and nice and slippy, and now I'm on 3 wheels - nah, not fancying that thanks 😐
  22. The photo's on that link - looking at #7 with one wheel in the air, doesn't look like it's got much articulation or is it just me...🤔
  23. If you're using hi-build, no need to go down to 320 - just smooth the surface with 240 or 180 and get rid of scratches, rough edges etc. If you're filling, best to take the dent area back to bare metal, fill, smooth, prime- prevents sinkage which shows up as an outline in the finished paint. Use a normal hi-build primer, you won't get any benefit from an anti corrosion primer. 25-30 psi is at the air cap, use a gun mounted regulator/gauge to get it right. You will need at least a 1.8mm cap for hi-build, preferraby a bit bigger. Give the primer 24hrs to dry. Flat off with wet/dry, you can start with 120 to take the orange peel/chunks off then finish with 400. Wash residue with clean water and a sponge (if you hose it off you need to wait longer to dry out), degrease, apply top coat. 2 coats should be ample, allowing flash time in between - don't apply another coat after it's started to cure, say the next day. Enamel/1k polyeurethane is pretty stable and not so affected by traces of grease, chemicals, other paints etc.
  24. Could be theres some crud in there stopping it closing fully, worth taking it off for a look and clean at least.
  25. Just search for freight forwarding or container shipping agents in Muscat. Get a couple of quotes. You will need someone local to arrange for a container, transport to docks, clearance and forwarding documents etc. They will usually have details for a clearing agent in the UK and just link up with them on your behalf, if not there are plenty to choose from, or drop me a line and I'll give you some contact details for one.
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