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Everything posted by Eightpot

  1. Yes you can cut near that weld. The joints do allow a bit of swivel, so the centre section will sit away from the chassis, or make the cut with a very slight angle - Cut it, join it with a couple of tacks and test fit it, there's a fair bit of wiggle room and movement on the rubbers even if its not quite right.
  2. I import/export vehicles around the world. To import to the US, everything needs to correlate with the VIN - same body type, engine type, gearbox type, which side the steering wheel is on. It doesn't need to be the original engine, just the original type (12j), you will not be able to import it to the US with a 19j engine, they will check and will confiscate the car if there is an anomaly. US customs are well versed in Defenders and will look for and find discrepancies. Paperwork needs to be correct - VIN and engine number must match what is on the V5. If your engine number no longer matches what's on the V5, apply to DVLA to have it ammended. Make sure the VIN number actually matches what's on the V5 as well, I've found a surprising number of errors. Make sure the VIN is clearly stamped on the chassis - military vehicles often had chassis changes with unstamped chassis. You dont need a military export licence, dont present the heritage certificate and don't try and sneak a 300tdi engine in the back of the car..
  3. DVLA only want a build date as last resort (which is where authorised clubs or organisations come in to verify, usually against archived records), and that's when they drop down into low gear to try to find a technicality to stitch you up on. Low grade admin assistants like to feel clever and important, and its always easier to reject an application than to actually process the job. They prefer date of first use as with home market cars, which of course comes with the issue of a registration certificate.
  4. Couple of options You can bring the vehicle here no problem, no need to dismantle it. When it gets here you need to notify HMRC, apply for a NOVA certificate and pay duty and VAT - though even this may be difficult without an identity. NOVA cert is required before DVLA will register it. Registering it with DVLA will be a headache as it does not have an identity, VIN number, log book etc. They may not register it at all, which is very likely, they may issue you with a DVLA VIN number (which you will need to have stamped on the chassis) and issue a Q plate following an IVA test. I sincerely doubt they will ever offer you an age related plate. Or - just import it as a very unfinished project, don't apply for a NOVA certificate and if most of the parts were bought from the UK you may get away without paying duty and VAT. If you use an import agent they will guide you on this. You will not be able to register it with DVLA. Buy a project 90 in the UK and use it as a base to use your shiny parts on and have an identity. I would do the latter.
  5. The downpipe goes down , then slightly diagonal, then horizontal towards the end - cut in this section so you dont affect the height when fitted. The bit you chop out, cut a slot along its length, then you slide this inside the two halves to give extra strength and support when you weld it up.
  6. If you have the concealed imobilised solenoid you should be able to check the solenoid just by turning the ignition on/off- or get an assistant to do it while you listen. If its an earlier simple solenoid with spade connector just unplug and reconnect a couple of times with ignition on. If it isnt clicking, it isnt moving.
  7. I've had similar caused by anything from a rusty porous pick up pipe, chaffed lines, leaking diaphragm in lift pump, leaking joints on filter housing, porous filter housing, bad leak off pipes.
  8. I built a really expensive in-car computer for my overland truck a few years ago (riiiiight before cheap tablets came on the market 😕) which ran windows, had a dash mounted touch screen display and had Garmin Maps For Mobile running on it, with a GPS dongle- was brilliant, faster, bigger and more info than a sat nav unit. They discontinued it for some reason and don't seem to sell a maps app either which seems odd, I'd happily pay for that again. Incidentally, the one cool thing about running a windows pc was running Google earth with the gps dongle activated so the map follows you, zoom down and pan to an angle and as you're driving along you get a birds eye 3D view of peoples back gardens and stuff hidden behind high walls
  9. Yes, or make some, if you have a welder and some scraps of metal they arent difficult to knock up. You can buy ready made brackets, YRM sell them as well as craddocks etc - ESR3293/4 Easiest thing is to fit the exhaust, suspend it on cord or straps and you'll see where they need to go. Rear one is easy, middle one you may need to weld to chassis crossmember or may be able to bolt existing bracket, front one I've usually made a little bracket to hang off a transfer box PTO cover bolt
  10. I always use a full 300tdi system, because the engine sits further back than a factory 300 you need to cut/shorten the length of the downpipe tail- from memory I think it was 17cm - then everything else going back is sitting in the right place. Not too difficult to make a couple of exhaust hangers, or Halfords sell universal flexible exhaust mounts which are a quick solution.
  11. Have you checked your ride height? Those springs look fine to me, just need a scrub with a wire brush and some paint - they don't seem to be sagging. As others have said, if you can get genuine take-off springs they are much better than britpart, terrafirma etc. Old man emu are very good but unless you need to go for a higher spring rate (standard will easily cope with what you want), I've found no difference in longevity or performance over genuine. Genuine shocks are also very good, not had any problems with the cheaper Armstrongs either. Gas shocks are a bit of a waste of money unless you're really pushing the car hard. I do like the Britpart cellular dynamic - very good for the price, seem to last well. I just paint them black so nobody knows I've got them on...
  12. Circumference = Pi x D You would need to get the diameter of both tyres to compare Or put a string round the tyre and measure how long it is 🤓
  13. When the D3 first came out I took one out on one of the LRE courses and it made such easy work of it as to be boring - seemed to be lots of articulation and the traction control just took any skill out of negotiating the bits that would have needed an experienced hand in a coiler with diff lock. Any novice could have got round the course - and because I was an experienced driver we took the toughest lines. When I took my old 2a station wagon through Mozambique a few months ago though, I drove a heavy narrow sand track between some coastal towns, and had to mount a steep side slope sand bank to get round a new Range Rover which was floundering on its belly unable to move - suspension on full height, wheels spinning helplessly and only got out with a tow and a bunch of people shoving it. It had been there a considerable time with local 4x4 traffic backed up a long way. The 2a easily climbed up, round and past the lot of them. I'd driven the same section several times in the 2a without a problem so either it was a case of very poor driving of the RR, or the newer chassis config isnt as competant outside of a test track. Bit of both I think.
  14. This doesn't look right from any angle - also not quite seeing the point of adding a load space while at the same time removing access to the boot 🤔 https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F283449056224
  15. I fitted a 3.9 with 14cux into a Defender with no speed sensor. If I remember correctly, the speed sensor just helps the engine run smoothly when coming off the gas, decelerating and driving slowly - forget the exact process but it helps give a smoother more steady rpm at low speed which can otherwise be more erratic or lumpy.
  16. Its a metric grub screw - can't remember if it takes a 2 or 2.5mm allen key, but you may find it's just rusted and worn - drill the grub screw out and pop a couple of new spindles on. If the wipers are going slow, you probably don't need to take the entire gubbins to bits and dash out - just withdraw the wiper cable and regrease, clean and regrease the wiper motor gears, squirt some oil down the spindle shafts and spin them round a bit, push the wiper cable back up the tube and back on the motor and give it a try - 30 mins work.
  17. Raised air intakes are mainly for sucking in cleaner air when driving on dusty or sandy tracks- air filters clog up real quick otherwise, especially in convoy. Thats why the mushroom top type intakes have angled vents, to encourage a vortex to separate the particles, or they can have prefilter tops. Oil bath filters are probably a bit more effective at catching the particles, and they don't go fast enough to kick up a dust cloud! Yes they're used for wading too if sealed.
  18. I bought one of those a couple of years ago. The plus point was the mod fitted a new chassis and doors before releasing it, (the old one no doubt being so rotten they couldn't wheel the thing out of the depot with its belly dragging on the floor.) On the other hand it had the most rotten decrepit lacework bulkhead I've ever seen. When I laid it in the floor it resembled a table tennis net. They also have awful marine sealed wiring looms which are a swine to repair or fault find, and instant death bringing sealed steel dashboards should your head ever come into contact - with the radio racking, rifle mounts and that dash I wouldn't fancy anyones chance in an accident, never mind a war! The escape hatch (its just a normal sunroof but with ally plate rather than glass) seems fun till it rains. Quite fancy it though 😂
  19. Etch primer only needed if coating bare aluminium - if a little aluminium shows through don't worry about it. You can get an adhesion promoter for plastic which helps primer get a good grip, but if the spats are already painted don't worry about it. If you just need to repair a scratch literally, you can get good results using the end of a darning needle or even a thin screwdriver tip to drag paint along the scratch, building up layers - tends to be easier than a brush if you're not used to using one.
  20. You could have a little debate on whether Defenders were ever proper off roaders - a bog standard early 90 is a pretty useful tool, especially an ex MoD soft top - but most owners have felt the need to improve the design for safety, speed, grip, vulnerable underparts, better lighting, better heating, better soundproofing, better brakes, better stereo, stronger transmission, better gearing, better rust protection - actually 🤔 when you think about it.. it shouldn't be hard to improve 😄
  21. I gave up on eezibleeds years ago, work ok when the stars are aligned but you're always in the wrong place when they start to blow fluid everywhere. Have got a vacuum bleed kit in the workshop but pretty much always use a cheap Vizibleed one way valve kit now - quick clean and easy.
  22. Take the head off and get it pressure tested and skimmed - pressure testing will show up any cracks. If all good, go through the head gasket replacement proceedure to the letter, including a top quality gasket and new stretch bolts.
  23. BS381-285 Nato green. Either mat or satin finish. Satin tends to look better in my opinion. You can either order it online or go to your local bodyshop supplies place and order it in 1k polyurethane paint, with fast flash thinners to dilute it (or white spirit works).
  24. The air suspension on discos/rangies seems well thought of in southern Africa, especially on corrugated dirt roads. I've done thousands of miles on them myself in various coil sprung land rovers, and traditional springs can give a vicious ride leading to broken coils, shocks, spare wheel carriers, doors, exhausts - even had a windscreen fall out once! So overall maybe one set of maintenance traded for another, but I'm still happy to get shaken to bits with no A/C, leaked on and deafened.
  25. Air suspension makes loads more sense for a Defender - you wonder why it was never an option before. Gone is the dilema of which springs to fit, putting up with tall boingy springs on the motorway or jarring your bones on HD's when there's no load in the back. Much better on corrugated dirt roads, and drop the height and save a few bucks on long motorway journeys. Lets see if they can resist the urge to put huge discs/rims and low profile tyres on.
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