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Everything posted by Eightpot

  1. Yesterday I thought I'd get in quick and modify my 110 to the new look before anyone else. So I've taped a printout of my landy to the centre of the dash. So far it's working pretty well and gives a visual representation of the vehicle dynamics. If I'm driving on a rough road it shakes up and down. At night it went dark, and this morning it was nice and damp. It even showed the hvac was working correctly by fluttering slightly when I put the heater on full. Development cost 5p, will still be working in 10 years 🙂
  2. If I remember correctly, the alarm ecu opens the earth path for the starter relay - fixed a non responsive alarm ecu a while back by just earthing the solenoid and job done.
  3. Metalic or mica paint contains flakes which reflect the light, if you brush paint it you get very obvious brush marks - its also a mat finish, the gloss comes from clear laquer coats on top, which again doesn't suit brush painting. You can hand paint (with roller or brush) using enamel paint (1k polyeurethane) in solid colours, if you want to keep it silver it's best to take it to a bodyshop.
  4. I know - he's bypassed us all and flown south for the summer ⛈️😩
  5. Where are you staying at the mo?
  6. They come out easy enough generally. Just be careful your guys are actually good with electrical work if you're going to move away from standard stuff. In my long experience in dealing with cars and mechanics in SA, vehicle electrics are not a national strong point to say the very least.. and don't go for generic african stuff bodged to fit - if you can't get the right senders, stick to standard. Put a post up on SA4X4 facebook page, couple of guys on there should be able to point you towards a vdo stockist.
  7. Looks like Zambizi silver. Don't be tempted to hand paint it. At least not in silver.
  8. I use a lot of Britpart exhausts and not had a problem in ten years. For the price I don't mind if it needs changing every few years, though I've not binned one yet- the cars tend to get changed or modified before an exhaust gets old.
  9. Therein will lie the nub of your future dissapointment I think - is it likely that LR are going to diverge and start building utility vehicles? Wouldn't make much sense, and they don't need to. Did they make as much money on a utility spec Defender as a fully loaded Disco 4? Nah. Do most new car buyers want small rims and massive profile rubber - nope, and that's what will drive development, demand. Even Range Rovers and Discos started out with proper suspension, 16" steelies and wind up windows but I doubt we'll see that again.
  10. You could use a simple folding leg arrangement - I'm thinking of the simple type of hinged folding struts you have to secure the legs on a camping table that locks under slight tension (can't think what the proper name is 🤔) , maybe with a sliding collar that slips over the joint. I'm sure a buddy of mine used that setup on a big 130 camper roof.
  11. Not half bad still means the other half is terrible though! 😄 Actually looking at those recent pics LR released from Kenya, they've removed the false sides and it's not actually showing much of an interesting line - unless its another bit of disguising..
  12. Followed one of the shorty test cars today. Having a closer look it seems the rear sides, roof and bonnet are heavily disguised with bolted on flat panels. I guess it may have the rounded defender style shoulder-line (hence the disguised door waistline) defendery bonnet and sloping roof under all that board. Might not be half bad underneath?
  13. I reckon it would have got a bit further up if the traction control let it get a bit of a run up as well.. - don't think the driver was helping much either, probably had it on the wrong setting
  14. Just having a mooch at some Russian off road mucking about on youtube and came across this one with a RR SVX vs some soft roaders and an FSO - I think I'm still pretty happy with my beam axles and lack of traction aids! (Didnt show the defender which was there for some reason, would have been a good comparison) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v_ZPwm9vsGs
  15. So I'm working my way down a rocky track with a bit of sideslope, I've got a full tank of fuel, a jerry can or two plus a couple with water, another 200kg of food, beer, camping gear, spares and tools and a roof tent up top, just normal top-heavy overland stuff - it's raining a bit and nice and slippy, and now I'm on 3 wheels - nah, not fancying that thanks 😐
  16. The photo's on that link - looking at #7 with one wheel in the air, doesn't look like it's got much articulation or is it just me...🤔
  17. If you're using hi-build, no need to go down to 320 - just smooth the surface with 240 or 180 and get rid of scratches, rough edges etc. If you're filling, best to take the dent area back to bare metal, fill, smooth, prime- prevents sinkage which shows up as an outline in the finished paint. Use a normal hi-build primer, you won't get any benefit from an anti corrosion primer. 25-30 psi is at the air cap, use a gun mounted regulator/gauge to get it right. You will need at least a 1.8mm cap for hi-build, preferraby a bit bigger. Give the primer 24hrs to dry. Flat off with wet/dry, you can start with 120 to take the orange peel/chunks off then finish with 400. Wash residue with clean water and a sponge (if you hose it off you need to wait longer to dry out), degrease, apply top coat. 2 coats should be ample, allowing flash time in between - don't apply another coat after it's started to cure, say the next day. Enamel/1k polyeurethane is pretty stable and not so affected by traces of grease, chemicals, other paints etc.
  18. Could be theres some crud in there stopping it closing fully, worth taking it off for a look and clean at least.
  19. Just search for freight forwarding or container shipping agents in Muscat. Get a couple of quotes. You will need someone local to arrange for a container, transport to docks, clearance and forwarding documents etc. They will usually have details for a clearing agent in the UK and just link up with them on your behalf, if not there are plenty to choose from, or drop me a line and I'll give you some contact details for one.
  20. Yes you can cut near that weld. The joints do allow a bit of swivel, so the centre section will sit away from the chassis, or make the cut with a very slight angle - Cut it, join it with a couple of tacks and test fit it, there's a fair bit of wiggle room and movement on the rubbers even if its not quite right.
  21. I import/export vehicles around the world. To import to the US, everything needs to correlate with the VIN - same body type, engine type, gearbox type, which side the steering wheel is on. It doesn't need to be the original engine, just the original type (12j), you will not be able to import it to the US with a 19j engine, they will check and will confiscate the car if there is an anomaly. US customs are well versed in Defenders and will look for and find discrepancies. Paperwork needs to be correct - VIN and engine number must match what is on the V5. If your engine number no longer matches what's on the V5, apply to DVLA to have it ammended. Make sure the VIN number actually matches what's on the V5 as well, I've found a surprising number of errors. Make sure the VIN is clearly stamped on the chassis - military vehicles often had chassis changes with unstamped chassis. You dont need a military export licence, dont present the heritage certificate and don't try and sneak a 300tdi engine in the back of the car..
  22. DVLA only want a build date as last resort (which is where authorised clubs or organisations come in to verify, usually against archived records), and that's when they drop down into low gear to try to find a technicality to stitch you up on. Low grade admin assistants like to feel clever and important, and its always easier to reject an application than to actually process the job. They prefer date of first use as with home market cars, which of course comes with the issue of a registration certificate.
  23. Couple of options You can bring the vehicle here no problem, no need to dismantle it. When it gets here you need to notify HMRC, apply for a NOVA certificate and pay duty and VAT - though even this may be difficult without an identity. NOVA cert is required before DVLA will register it. Registering it with DVLA will be a headache as it does not have an identity, VIN number, log book etc. They may not register it at all, which is very likely, they may issue you with a DVLA VIN number (which you will need to have stamped on the chassis) and issue a Q plate following an IVA test. I sincerely doubt they will ever offer you an age related plate. Or - just import it as a very unfinished project, don't apply for a NOVA certificate and if most of the parts were bought from the UK you may get away without paying duty and VAT. If you use an import agent they will guide you on this. You will not be able to register it with DVLA. Buy a project 90 in the UK and use it as a base to use your shiny parts on and have an identity. I would do the latter.
  24. The downpipe goes down , then slightly diagonal, then horizontal towards the end - cut in this section so you dont affect the height when fitted. The bit you chop out, cut a slot along its length, then you slide this inside the two halves to give extra strength and support when you weld it up.
  25. If you have the concealed imobilised solenoid you should be able to check the solenoid just by turning the ignition on/off- or get an assistant to do it while you listen. If its an earlier simple solenoid with spade connector just unplug and reconnect a couple of times with ignition on. If it isnt clicking, it isnt moving.
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