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Everything posted by Eightpot

  1. I've had similar caused by anything from a rusty porous pick up pipe, chaffed lines, leaking diaphragm in lift pump, leaking joints on filter housing, porous filter housing, bad leak off pipes.
  2. I built a really expensive in-car computer for my overland truck a few years ago (riiiiight before cheap tablets came on the market 😕) which ran windows, had a dash mounted touch screen display and had Garmin Maps For Mobile running on it, with a GPS dongle- was brilliant, faster, bigger and more info than a sat nav unit. They discontinued it for some reason and don't seem to sell a maps app either which seems odd, I'd happily pay for that again. Incidentally, the one cool thing about running a windows pc was running Google earth with the gps dongle activated so the map follows you, zoom down and pan to an angle and as you're driving along you get a birds eye 3D view of peoples back gardens and stuff hidden behind high walls
  3. Yes, or make some, if you have a welder and some scraps of metal they arent difficult to knock up. You can buy ready made brackets, YRM sell them as well as craddocks etc - ESR3293/4 Easiest thing is to fit the exhaust, suspend it on cord or straps and you'll see where they need to go. Rear one is easy, middle one you may need to weld to chassis crossmember or may be able to bolt existing bracket, front one I've usually made a little bracket to hang off a transfer box PTO cover bolt
  4. I always use a full 300tdi system, because the engine sits further back than a factory 300 you need to cut/shorten the length of the downpipe tail- from memory I think it was 17cm - then everything else going back is sitting in the right place. Not too difficult to make a couple of exhaust hangers, or Halfords sell universal flexible exhaust mounts which are a quick solution.
  5. Have you checked your ride height? Those springs look fine to me, just need a scrub with a wire brush and some paint - they don't seem to be sagging. As others have said, if you can get genuine take-off springs they are much better than britpart, terrafirma etc. Old man emu are very good but unless you need to go for a higher spring rate (standard will easily cope with what you want), I've found no difference in longevity or performance over genuine. Genuine shocks are also very good, not had any problems with the cheaper Armstrongs either. Gas shocks are a bit of a waste of money unless you're really pushing the car hard. I do like the Britpart cellular dynamic - very good for the price, seem to last well. I just paint them black so nobody knows I've got them on...
  6. Circumference = Pi x D You would need to get the diameter of both tyres to compare Or put a string round the tyre and measure how long it is 🤓
  7. When the D3 first came out I took one out on one of the LRE courses and it made such easy work of it as to be boring - seemed to be lots of articulation and the traction control just took any skill out of negotiating the bits that would have needed an experienced hand in a coiler with diff lock. Any novice could have got round the course - and because I was an experienced driver we took the toughest lines. When I took my old 2a station wagon through Mozambique a few months ago though, I drove a heavy narrow sand track between some coastal towns, and had to mount a steep side slope sand bank to get round a new Range Rover which was floundering on its belly unable to move - suspension on full height, wheels spinning helplessly and only got out with a tow and a bunch of people shoving it. It had been there a considerable time with local 4x4 traffic backed up a long way. The 2a easily climbed up, round and past the lot of them. I'd driven the same section several times in the 2a without a problem so either it was a case of very poor driving of the RR, or the newer chassis config isnt as competant outside of a test track. Bit of both I think.
  8. This doesn't look right from any angle - also not quite seeing the point of adding a load space while at the same time removing access to the boot 🤔 https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F283449056224
  9. I fitted a 3.9 with 14cux into a Defender with no speed sensor. If I remember correctly, the speed sensor just helps the engine run smoothly when coming off the gas, decelerating and driving slowly - forget the exact process but it helps give a smoother more steady rpm at low speed which can otherwise be more erratic or lumpy.
  10. Its a metric grub screw - can't remember if it takes a 2 or 2.5mm allen key, but you may find it's just rusted and worn - drill the grub screw out and pop a couple of new spindles on. If the wipers are going slow, you probably don't need to take the entire gubbins to bits and dash out - just withdraw the wiper cable and regrease, clean and regrease the wiper motor gears, squirt some oil down the spindle shafts and spin them round a bit, push the wiper cable back up the tube and back on the motor and give it a try - 30 mins work.
  11. Raised air intakes are mainly for sucking in cleaner air when driving on dusty or sandy tracks- air filters clog up real quick otherwise, especially in convoy. Thats why the mushroom top type intakes have angled vents, to encourage a vortex to separate the particles, or they can have prefilter tops. Oil bath filters are probably a bit more effective at catching the particles, and they don't go fast enough to kick up a dust cloud! Yes they're used for wading too if sealed.
  12. I bought one of those a couple of years ago. The plus point was the mod fitted a new chassis and doors before releasing it, (the old one no doubt being so rotten they couldn't wheel the thing out of the depot with its belly dragging on the floor.) On the other hand it had the most rotten decrepit lacework bulkhead I've ever seen. When I laid it in the floor it resembled a table tennis net. They also have awful marine sealed wiring looms which are a swine to repair or fault find, and instant death bringing sealed steel dashboards should your head ever come into contact - with the radio racking, rifle mounts and that dash I wouldn't fancy anyones chance in an accident, never mind a war! The escape hatch (its just a normal sunroof but with ally plate rather than glass) seems fun till it rains. Quite fancy it though 😂
  13. Etch primer only needed if coating bare aluminium - if a little aluminium shows through don't worry about it. You can get an adhesion promoter for plastic which helps primer get a good grip, but if the spats are already painted don't worry about it. If you just need to repair a scratch literally, you can get good results using the end of a darning needle or even a thin screwdriver tip to drag paint along the scratch, building up layers - tends to be easier than a brush if you're not used to using one.
  14. You could have a little debate on whether Defenders were ever proper off roaders - a bog standard early 90 is a pretty useful tool, especially an ex MoD soft top - but most owners have felt the need to improve the design for safety, speed, grip, vulnerable underparts, better lighting, better heating, better soundproofing, better brakes, better stereo, stronger transmission, better gearing, better rust protection - actually 🤔 when you think about it.. it shouldn't be hard to improve 😄
  15. I gave up on eezibleeds years ago, work ok when the stars are aligned but you're always in the wrong place when they start to blow fluid everywhere. Have got a vacuum bleed kit in the workshop but pretty much always use a cheap Vizibleed one way valve kit now - quick clean and easy.
  16. Take the head off and get it pressure tested and skimmed - pressure testing will show up any cracks. If all good, go through the head gasket replacement proceedure to the letter, including a top quality gasket and new stretch bolts.
  17. BS381-285 Nato green. Either mat or satin finish. Satin tends to look better in my opinion. You can either order it online or go to your local bodyshop supplies place and order it in 1k polyurethane paint, with fast flash thinners to dilute it (or white spirit works).
  18. The air suspension on discos/rangies seems well thought of in southern Africa, especially on corrugated dirt roads. I've done thousands of miles on them myself in various coil sprung land rovers, and traditional springs can give a vicious ride leading to broken coils, shocks, spare wheel carriers, doors, exhausts - even had a windscreen fall out once! So overall maybe one set of maintenance traded for another, but I'm still happy to get shaken to bits with no A/C, leaked on and deafened.
  19. Air suspension makes loads more sense for a Defender - you wonder why it was never an option before. Gone is the dilema of which springs to fit, putting up with tall boingy springs on the motorway or jarring your bones on HD's when there's no load in the back. Much better on corrugated dirt roads, and drop the height and save a few bucks on long motorway journeys. Lets see if they can resist the urge to put huge discs/rims and low profile tyres on.
  20. I would guess they aren't looking to impress trialers, rock crawlers or pay and play types, probably not even 4x4 fleet buyers - Land Rover are very much a fashion brand now and will cater for the largest audience, not a small fanatical niche. As long as it beats a jeep or a tank on Top Gear or whatever show, job done. Only problem is the longer they drag this out, the less anyone cares 😐
  21. A transmission jack is ideal for a heavy winch bumper - wider and more stable than a trolley jack. Otherwise a trolley jack and a pair of axle stands will get it up and help keep it stable till you can get a couple of bolts in.
  22. Yeah, shame. All that work - this is why engineers need project managers I guess! Wonder how fast it would go...
  23. It may be a lifes work, it may be done well, but this looks like a Range Rover, a caravan and a fairground ride all tried to teleport themselves but got mixed up like in The Fly film. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F223471319006
  24. The fix is going to depend on exactly where the leak is - commonly the t-box input seal leaks, no need to strip gearboxes just separate the two and fit a new seal, if it is this seal you will normally have ep90 dripping through a small cutout drain channel between the t-box/gearbox. Could be from a number of other places as well though, so give it a good cleanup underneath so you can see the exit point first.
  25. Santorini black is 'clear over base' , so a metalic base coat with a clear coat over the top. Metalic basecoat is mat, the clear coat is needed to give the gloss and seal the metalic flakes. The paint type used is different to your old army satin paint, you will want 2 pack polyurethane which is poisonous and needs proper ventilation, protective equipment and breathing apparatus. It can be done diy when you have the right kit, but easier to prep the panels and take to a bodyshop.
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