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Eightpot

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Everything posted by Eightpot

  1. If the original belt is still on, and assuming it ran ok, just rotate the engine till the pump locking pin will slide in through the FIP pulley and swap the belt. In this position check up through the wading hole for the slot - it may be a few degrees out so (with locking pin removed) rotate the crank forward and back a bit and you may find it. If someone has done something to the flywheel and there's no slot and you already have the old belt off, you'll need to take #1 glow plug out, rotate the engine till #1 cylinder is on its compression stroke (both valves fully closed), put some stiff wire or thin rod down the glow plug hole and rotate the engine till you can feel the piston at tdc - then go looking for the flywheel slot again. If you still can't find the slot this should be close enough for you to fit the belt anyway - just make sure you slacken the three lock bolts on the FIP pulley before you fit the belt and centralise the pulley in the slots so you have some adjustment on the timing.
  2. I gotthe similar looking one from Aldi last week, Ā£12.99 Very impressed so far - has a setting for AGM batteries and it managed to fully revive a completely nailed battery I had in the scrap pile.
  3. The benefit of having the 300 in the 'correct' place is the viscous fan is in the right place just behind the rad and easier to use standard parts. If you fit it in the further back position it's not a huge challenge, oil cooler pipes can just be lengthened easily by cutting the steel pipe/joining with rubber hose, intercooler pipes are easy to extend with suitable diameter steel tube (exhaust tube is perfect). Fan position isn't usually an issue for normal UK use, it will probably catch on the power steering box but I've trimmed the blades on a few conversions and it's worked well. In hotter areas you might not an electric fan. Alternatively, depending on where in the world you are, just get another 200tdi block from Defender/Discovery?
  4. You can buy plastic battery boxes from caravan shops, probably worth putting it in something just to reduce risk from exposed terminals, could always drill a hole through the bottom and wheelbox to vent off any gas, though defenders are usually pretty ventilated anyway... A regular starting battery isn't ideal for using as an aux battery, but as you have it anyway you might as well use it till it gives up.
  5. They are 36 spline, same as early Defender.
  6. It was built in SA at the old Port Elizabeth factory (the front grille badge is cool, has Port Elizabeth rather than Solihull on the casting) - they used thier own chassis numbers but on the paperwork its registered as a 1970 though could easily be 1969 also.
  7. Thanks all - yes it turned out to be a lucky buy - sold by the family after the owner died and I reckon he must have had that thing for many years, maybe from new and really looked after it. Parabolic springs, freewheeling hubs - gearbox is faultless, even has a long range fuel tank. So the plan was for a quick mini overhaul, take plenty of tools and bits and do a mini rolling resto while cruising about the coast. The rad was finless and water pump squeaked so they were changed (was over 42 degrees while we were there, no chances taken..). Brakes were non-existent, but just needed adjusters setting properly - no servo fitted but not too bad with a hefty shove. A set of plugs and resoldering a bad joint on the points wire got the engine purring. The only major issue was someones terrible attempt at replacing the wiring loom - they tend to go very brittle and crack up with the heat there. The loom was made mostly with speaker wire, including the headlamp wiring! Luckily the loom is quite small on a 2a anyway and we got away with just replacing the headlamp wiring with heavier cable. The climate has been good to it, so the chassis is tip-top, bulkhead needs a little work on the top corners, doors look to be real nice bar a couple of bits of local rust and needing new window channel. Amazed at how straight the panels are - there's a small bit of filler in one rear corner panel, other than that it's got barely a ding. A few bits to do to get it 'right' - bit of wander in the steering, perspex window in the tailgate, need to dump the toyota seats. Not sure what's happened to the safari roof skin but presume its been driven into a low tree branch and tidied up. The other nice thing was we had a go at dumping all the overland gear and travelling super light - tent, foam, tiny table, plate/cup/spoon, torch, couple of chairs. Did take a fridge -not having hot beer no way no how, but no extra battery or split charge etc. Worked out great - turns out a tin mug can be used for tea, wine, cocktails, as a hammer, cooking beans and mixing bbq sauce. Things I love - that engine šŸ˜, the indicator switch and its rubber wheel!, front air vents that are twice as effective as a Defenders, doors that open aaaalll the way, roof vents, crash gearbox Unfortunately the plan was to use it for a few weeks then sell it on šŸ˜¬ I'm not allowed any more cars šŸ˜­ Think I may need a cunning plan..
  8. If yours doesn't have a steering lock (thought they all did??) Then just use a later column, certainly no difference up to about 86 and wheels are same fitment.
  9. Been ages since I've used a series other than road testing customer cars, but as I had to break the 110 I keep in Africa and as Defender prices have gone through the roof there, I thought I'd try my hand at a spot of retro overlanding and picked up a nice S2a 109 safari station wagon as a temporary stopgap - sight unseen, and had it delivered to a mates. Apart from a couple of offensive additions (laminate floorboard dash, quickly ripped out & brown velvet Toyota cressida front seats) I hit lucky and it's remarkably original with barely a dent and almost no rust. New rad, water pump, engine tune up and an oil change later and ran it up to Mozambique waiting for the first round of spanner time.... which never came! Absolutely love the 2.6 six cylinder engine - torque not far off a tdi, silky smooth and got over 22mpg overall - not bad for a 50s engine and 80p/litre for petrol it doesn't matter too much. Compared to the old 2.25 petrol or diesel it was a pleasure to drive - no slowing down on hills! Great through soft sand as well, at one point I helped tow a speedboat through very deep coastal sand tracks, passing a brand new Range Rover that was bogged to the floorpan. Well after making it to Moz without a breakdown we chanced a trip through Kruger (the wuffly engine was great for game viewing, rattly tdis & td5s scare the animals off) and Swaziland - whole trip I never had to fix anything, don't think I ever had that with a defender šŸ˜ but did miss a bit of tool time. Great journey and great to reconnect with some of those early landy features.
  10. Use a series/ex MoD centre seat? The back folds down, or if the seat base is removed it leaves a nice open frame that a cubby box could be clipped into.
  11. I've done a few early Range Rover door cards and trim sections in leather - with a good sharp knife and good spray on contact adhesive it's an easy enough job to do diy, if you can find a supply of nice thin supple leather.
  12. Sorry - thought I'd posted this already - Its a later version like the one in the attached pic. Has a flylead coming off with a small socket on the end a bit like a 3 pin din plug, I need the other half, otherwise find a pair of suitable connectors and make up a power lead. The section I'm short of is the male cable, which is the end pointing ro the right on the picture. There's a model number EMV 26 on the socket, can't find the manufacturer though. Probably the easiest route is chop the end of and use a caravan socket, but the kenlowe one is discreet and compact.
  13. I've picked up a kenlowe hotstart for nowt, but its missing its external mains cable (the main cable connected to the heater is present) Quite fancy plumbing it into the 110 but can't find a source for a replacement power cable - would have thought they should be obtainable, assuming they get wrecked when people drive off without disconnecting! If anyone knows where to get or has a spare.. Alternatively I could just chop the end & replace with something like an Anderson connector I guess?
  14. If it's for security I'd avoid the standard issue red plastic key ones - would be the first thing I'd buy if I were a landy thief, along with a piece of wire to defeat a hidden fuel solenoid switch.
  15. I hope they keep some of the classic design features, such as the rear lamp corner covers, held in place by a screw poked through the body that cant be undone if you have a back door. And door latches that neatly remove belt loops and trouser pockets.
  16. Screwfix spray adhesive will do it. Ā£6 a tin.
  17. I've often thought about pulling it all out and replacing it with a series 2 style dash - the whole thing is just a heater vent with a badly arranged bit of shelf.
  18. Don't bother buying it as a land rover part, neoprene tape is widely available for cheap. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F254002513349
  19. For that matter why buy hd steering arms either? Really not needed for green laning. Unless the old ones are damaged just set some cash aside to get the important stuff sorted out - worn bushes, leaking seals, timing belt, lights and switches, tyres - you will have plenty of opportunity to spend on the car don't worry šŸ˜‰
  20. I would just stow them as spares. Cheap oil filled shocks overheat and fade pretty quick on the corrugations, so on a long stretch you would only be benefitting from the tough dog shocks anyway. If you over damp it will make the ride harsher as well.
  21. why spend Ā£170 on a conversion kit for the drop arm when a replacement ball joint costs Ā£10, takes 30 mins to fit and lasts for years? It will take longer to fit the conversion kit...
  22. .The demand for Defenders in the US has a lot to do with the price shift. The Ā£/$ rate has been favourable for a while, and hundreds of the best early Defenders have gone over. They trade for much higher values there, so they are happy to pay over the odds for the right car. 300tdi's will be eligible for import soon so watch out for the next price hike..
  23. it's a simple circuit - the brake switch has two spades, one is live, the other runs to the brake light. Pressing the pedal bridges the two. So with a multimeter check you have live at one spade, and the other goes live when pedal depressed. Then follow the wire back checking again at the multiplug.
  24. There's no point using a 200tdi diagram, the looms are different, though there will be many common colours. It does look like a lot of those wires in your picture have been added in, maybe for an alarm or sound system? I've never come across banded colour coding on a LR loom, always stripes. Your going to need to take a slow methodical approach to rectifying that lot - just start by identifying each component that doesn't work, check what colour cable powers it and match that with your main loom. You may even find most of those wires arent attached to anything at all, a remnant of old accessories.
  25. I fitted some recently as per the instructions - went together really well and worked a treat. Forget which colour you need to use - one is for the smaller drums, the other for the larger lwb or later swb drums.
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