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Everything posted by Eightpot

  1. Yeah, shame. All that work - this is why engineers need project managers I guess! Wonder how fast it would go...
  2. It may be a lifes work, it may be done well, but this looks like a Range Rover, a caravan and a fairground ride all tried to teleport themselves but got mixed up like in The Fly film. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F223471319006
  3. The fix is going to depend on exactly where the leak is - commonly the t-box input seal leaks, no need to strip gearboxes just separate the two and fit a new seal, if it is this seal you will normally have ep90 dripping through a small cutout drain channel between the t-box/gearbox. Could be from a number of other places as well though, so give it a good cleanup underneath so you can see the exit point first.
  4. Santorini black is 'clear over base' , so a metalic base coat with a clear coat over the top. Metalic basecoat is mat, the clear coat is needed to give the gloss and seal the metalic flakes. The paint type used is different to your old army satin paint, you will want 2 pack polyurethane which is poisonous and needs proper ventilation, protective equipment and breathing apparatus. It can be done diy when you have the right kit, but easier to prep the panels and take to a bodyshop.
  5. If its between gearbox and transfer box, the fix is to either remove or slide the transfer box back far enough to replace seal ICV100000
  6. You can use white spirit, or go to a car paint shop and get 'fast flash thinner' for 1k poly.
  7. It could be RAF - outside of the large scale military contracts, there was a large 'white fleet' of pretty much standard Defenders, used for normal admin and run around work. I've got a ex RAF white fleet 110, airfield security, was based on Acension island. just had security stickers on it. Had a regular green RAF 110 before that, all standard and used in Afghanistan - for going to the shops I guess - had some shrapnel in it though!
  8. In short, removing the pump would be the long way to do it, and getting a slightly more accurate setting on the pump timing (though not accurate at all as it sounds like you want to modify it?) will have almost no effect at all. Yes you can remove the pump flange, but when you have set the plunger depth, you now have to put the flange back on with the same accuracy, with just your fingers. except you want to make it innacurate to line up with your timing pulley. Then when you put the pump back on and can't get the engine to start, you need to pull the pump again and figure which way to adjust the shaft, and now you're screwed and wishing you just did it properly because you would have finished the job hours ago. Which is why it's not in the workshop manual at a guess 🙂
  9. Thieves can break through lock barrels, smash steering locks, bypass imobilisers and cut through security devices - wouldn't stop me using them though. And a bug finder is only really going to put you off taking a tracked car - I don't think thieves have ever stripped a car on someone's drive to find and remove the tracker. Depending on the tracker, they can be left passive and only start tracking when you send it a message to come alive and send its location, so it would only give off an infrequent network signal, same as anything else with a sim nearby will be sending out. The biggest threat is a jammer or just setting the car on fire!
  10. In the time it's taken you to conjur that (bad) plan, you could have taken the front cover off. Why are you procrastinating?
  11. I can definitely recommend avoiding Britpart 90 fuel tanks. After three hours of bashing, grinding away a good section of the welded flange and the badly shaped underguard, hitting it with a mallet and forcing it with a trolley jack and crowbar, it finally went in, looking like a jamaican steel drum.
  12. The 'b' has a remote control fob if I remember correctly. Not a great deal of benefit in the fob, just as easy to send commands via a tk103 app on your phone. I tend to only 'arm' it to send alerts if I'm away or its parked somewhere strange overnight, otherwise it's passive untill I need to ask it where it is.
  13. As fridge says, with an old V8 you're wasting your time if the cam lobes are worn and the timing chain is stretched. V8s get through both at reasonably low mileages- not a huge job to check and replace and can restore a lot of missing power. Even a low compression 3.5 should feel pretty pokey in a 90, snorkel or not.
  14. TK103 trackers are good, 25 quid on Amazon. Just need a cheap sim card for communicating with it by sms. Some very useful features on the tk103 as well - can use it as an alarm, vibration function, remote fuel cut off etc. Also has built in battery. If you have a tracker, aside from hiding it well and not advertising you've got one, remove any cigarette sockets to make it more difficult to power tracker jammers.
  15. A 4jb1t doesnt use an ecu, it only has two wires going to it - one for stop solenoid, one for cold start pump advance.
  16. Also depending on year of Range Rover, panhard bushes and their receivers are a different size to later classics/defenders and wouldn't match.
  17. A td5 is ok, but I wouldn't take one out in the bush unsupported- or without a nagging worry. Tdi is far safer, and if you're not in a rush a n/a is even safer. But best engine I ever had in a Land Rover was an Isuzu.
  18. I would also go waffle board, just because it's more versatile and can be used for bridging, as a ramp, jack base., card table. If you drive correctly on sand though with appropriate tyres, air down at the right time, it's just more extra baggage you don't need.
  19. Change the oil with cheap ATF, drive it for a couple of days to flush it, if it's working ok, changing gear allright and not making a racket then drain again and refill with mtf/redline or whatever your choice is. It will probably be fine. (Just read again and noted you already put fresh oil in - drain a sample out and see how it looks now, if it's still got filings change again, otherwise if its clear you might be ok)
  20. Changing the clutch is easy if you have an engine hoist/block & tackle/crane. The job is easiest done if you remove the gearbox tunnel covers (they are fastened down with screws), then just undo the bellhousing to engine bolts, engine mounts, pipes, hoses etc and lift the engine up. Change clutch plate, cover plate, check the condition of the spigot bush. You will need to make a tool to centre the clutch, a suitable size bit of pipe/dowel will do. Easier to swap the slave cylinder while engine out, you need to use the 200tdi one. Fit a new clutch arm - a standard one with a reinforcing plate welded behind the pivot point is fine, buy one ready done or a fancy one, all equally as good - and a good quality release bearing. And yes fit a new master cylinder at the same time - they both do the same amount of work so will be as worn as each other. replace the whole cylinders as they can get worn and pitted inside. A seal kit is a useful thing to keep in a spares box though . You dont need a torque wrench, clutch bolts just need to be moderately tight, as much as you can pinch up using a normal hand spanner is fine. You should be able to do the whole job with a simple socket set and box of spanners. You can also move the gearbox back rather than take the engine out - useful if you have no hoist available. I've also done it by supporting the gearbox on jacks, unbolting everything then roll the car forwards - you can get just enough gap to replace the clutch, even more so if the radiator is out, but the engine needs to be supported with straps to stop it tipping.
  21. The purple wire is there for powering trailer wiring, on older cars it had a convenient lucar connector, not poked about with a puma tow loom but would imagine it terminates in a multiplug now, but should still be there.
  22. The trouble with conversions is unless you did it yourself you have potential for problems unless it has been done correctly. If in normal use your temp gauge is rougly in the middle, the oil pressure light works, your fuel gauge works then don't worry about adding on another layer of electrical systems. If you want to check your coolant level is ok just put the heater on - if its cold you need to top up! Bearing in mind you have a conversion, spend your time checking the wiring loom, look for poorly crimped terminals, poorly made add on wiring for spotlamps, radios etc and tidy it up. Use cable ties to secure loose wires. Make sure your radiator, hoses, hose clips are good (including heater). Usual things that break when you least want them to are clutch, clutch hoses, master/slave cylinders. Wheel bearings, prop UJs. The heat built up on long days of driving in a hot country tends to accelerate failure of hub oil seals, diff seals, gearbox output seals etc. Useful to carry an alternator regulator also. If you don't swap them out beforehand, at least carry them as spares with the right tools/fluids/grease to do it roadside. Keep everything as simple & standard as possible, 4000km isn't a huge distance and largely these days you don't have to go far for assistance.
  23. I'd say you just need a new alternator, that looks poked. Looks like that cable shorted out on something which may not have helped. On your other topic, if you're not intending installing radio kit or running the four big nato batteries, you might as well pull the battery box out all together as its a pretty useless item otherwise. The 24v alternator doesn't do anything other than charge the nato batteries, so flog it (can often get good money for them, people use them to make wind generators) and buy a leisure battery/split charge. Job done. You mentioned a transformer - anything in particular you want to run as virtually everything can be got in 12v these days - you taking curlers and a toaster? 🙂 (And keep quiet about your tracker, thieves read these forums - and swap your cigarette socket for USB so they cant plug a gps blocker in 😉)
  24. If the original belt is still on, and assuming it ran ok, just rotate the engine till the pump locking pin will slide in through the FIP pulley and swap the belt. In this position check up through the wading hole for the slot - it may be a few degrees out so (with locking pin removed) rotate the crank forward and back a bit and you may find it. If someone has done something to the flywheel and there's no slot and you already have the old belt off, you'll need to take #1 glow plug out, rotate the engine till #1 cylinder is on its compression stroke (both valves fully closed), put some stiff wire or thin rod down the glow plug hole and rotate the engine till you can feel the piston at tdc - then go looking for the flywheel slot again. If you still can't find the slot this should be close enough for you to fit the belt anyway - just make sure you slacken the three lock bolts on the FIP pulley before you fit the belt and centralise the pulley in the slots so you have some adjustment on the timing.
  25. I gotthe similar looking one from Aldi last week, £12.99 Very impressed so far - has a setting for AGM batteries and it managed to fully revive a completely nailed battery I had in the scrap pile.
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