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Eightpot

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Everything posted by Eightpot

  1. Just scanned the web for some pics of the Rubicon trail - came across this - room them six months to recover it ๐Ÿ˜ฒ Original forum post here if you have 20 mins to waste.. http://www.reno4x4.com/showthread.php/86444-Two-snowbound-rigs-on-Rubicon
  2. I don't think he wants it for pay & play days in a quarry though, and a shackle isn't really a problem to carry, I just leave one on the jate ring. I'd rather risk getting dirty knees strapping up a pair of jate rings than trusting one of those welded U bolt attachments anyways...
  3. A pair of jate rings works well. For general dragging you can just loop a strap through one, or use both for heavier recovery. Weight almost nothing and well out of the way. I've got a few spare I can post out for cheap.
  4. Check you have the leads in the correct firing order Put a timing strobe on each lead while engine is running so you can see if each plug is firing Check points gap is correct Check the vacuum advance is connected and suck on it to make sure the plate moves inside the dizzy. Check the dynamic timing
  5. https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/suzuki/jimny/105254/new-body-kit-turns-suzuki-jimny-into-a-mini-land-rover-defender Ha - love this!
  6. Fibreglass resin is pretty good for sealing pinholes up as well.
  7. Waco do two different kits - there's a normal element type like the LR standard ones, or the carbon fibre mesh - had these in my last 110 and they were fantastic. Picked them up on ebay for ยฃ50 brand new! Been looking at some of the Chinese kits on Amazon for this winter - very cheap but Will wait till there are a few more reviews...
  8. Ex MoD fuel system is same as normal. Could be that the 110 has been converted from petrol. If the 110 has been 'correctly' converted and uses a tdi fuel filter, it has a sediment/water valve on the bottom anyway.
  9. Modified then innit. Nil points ๐Ÿ˜‰
  10. I've got a few late 70s 2 doors here, they have 8" servos.
  11. If the pump was working ok before, and you're confident you have set the crank/cam/pump correctly when installing the timing belt, I would be starting to wonder if the problem lies elsewhere. Have you Got a compression tester? It's not unheard of to have a bit of something find it's way under the head gasket or some water/oil in the head bolt holes stopping the head clamping down properly for example. Personally, I would be investigating that first before spending on a recon fip.
  12. The wire terminations on the heater pad can come loose with age - not too difficult to resolver. Otherwise the waeco seat kits are great.
  13. I normally give it a light sanding just to get it clean, a coat of etch primer and whatever top coat. For the rear crossmember where it gets knocked and scuffed regularly it's better to get it done in a hard finish like 2k satin black rather than acrylic out of a can.
  14. You can run the engine briefly with the front cover off to test before you reassemble everything (make sure you take the timing pin back out!)
  15. As the V5, chassis, axles, engine , gearbox don't match, I'd value it a lot less, it not being legaly on the road ๐Ÿค”
  16. 'Slandering' wtf?? ๐Ÿคจ bloomin autocorrect ๐Ÿ˜†
  17. Yep whip it all off and check again, for the sake of a couple of gaskets and an hours slandering. Do double check to see if you have two flywheel slots first though - they are only a few degrees apart, but chances are the belt just needs refitting.
  18. Some flywheels have two notches which can create your problem if you're timing from the wrong one.
  19. Not the heavytrak adjustables I had - could have used them on the landing gear of a 747. Way the most difficult shock to compress I've ever used, was quite a fight to fit them on the mounts.
  20. Do you not find the ride very harsh with dual shocks & helper springs? Especially with Koni, which I like but I do find them to be overly stiff. I used to use OME heavy duty springs with koni heavytrack, very stable with big loads and barely dipped with half a ton in the back but next time round I'm definitely going softer on the dampers and will put ARBs on. Corrugations used to be hell and I took some damage underneath. One of the Konis was determined not to be outdone by the corrugations through serengeti and punched out the lower shock mount completely. I got a monster crack all round the chassis by the shock mount as well, and destroyed a couple of exhaust systems. Some variable rate heavy duty lifted rear springs would help nicely but can't recall seeing anyone making them?? Next time I ship the car back I'll send a few different shocks with it to trial. I'm interested to try some of the britpart cellular dynamic & see how they last , I've got on pretty well in the past with standard genuine LR shocks and just change out every 10k miles, but they fade really quick on corrugations, interesting to see if the cellular business improves that. Last trip out I tried some Monroe gas magnum. Lasted for 2 days before the seals burst! The Bilstein monotube shocks look worth a gander as well, not too stiff and supposedly good for reducing fade.
  21. Unless you have a vehicle lift and transmission jacks, it's easier to take the engine out. It's not a difficult task, should have the engine on the floor in under two hours.
  22. It can be as simple as the striker moving on the door frame - if it has moved a bit over the years , or if door hinges are worn so the latch is now lower, the latch just gets wedged on the striker. You may need to remove a shim on the striker as well if it is sitting a bit far out. And sometimes the latch gets gummed up with dust and needs a good squirt out with penetrating oil, sometimes the latch just needs renewing.
  23. And your budget is probably going to be the deciding factor. Certainly if you want 'interesting'.
  24. I bought a few panel mount ones with double USB sockets on the face earlier this year from Amazon to kit a camper out. None of them would charge my phone, so that was a bunch of money up the wazoo.
  25. If I'm reading this right and you're trying to get the door open but the handle/button isn't releasing it - get a thin flat bladed screwdriver and from the inside of the car, wiggle the blade levering it up using the striker as a fulcrum, up into the top of the door latch where there is a little keeper plate that holds the latch closed. When you push this back up the door will pop open. Will make more sense if you try it on an open door so you can see where to prod. Sometimes this happens if the striker isn't in the right place, or if the latch mechanism needs changing - sometimes a good spray of lube in the latch helps also.
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