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Eightpot

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Everything posted by Eightpot

  1. Amazing place isn't it - considering how easy it is to get there I'm gutted I've only just discovered it. Sardinia is great, but Corsica feels a little more wild with even more amazing landscapes, and all the conveniences and nice French food you need. I didn't have any problems with high ferry prices to the islands in June/July, but did book a few months in advance which is probably the trick. Corsica felt nicely busy then, but yes Sardinia was quite crowded, and campsites were full of megalithic motorhomes parked line astern to blot out everyonelses view😕 - Corsicas winding hairpin mountain roads at least seems to keep the worst of the motorhomes at bay...
  2. Dude you showed pics of heavily modified Defenders & Discos going over a bit of rough ground, but are knocking points off team Panda for being scuffed and maybe slightly modified!- to be fair I do think one of them had a half inch lift kit and a magic tree fitted 😄 Not sure my original point was understood but no worries, I'm not trying to play top trumps and I think I've ventured far enough down the rabbit hole this thread is turning into! I'm off to measure my pcd's...
  3. This is quite a nice panda 4x4 off road compilation if you're not bored yet..
  4. I don't see any reason a panda wouldn't go anywhere a standard disco 1 can go, and a few places it couldn't. In terms of clambering over boulders, I've seen a disco hung up on them while a 2cv neatly clambered past - Land Rovers aren't the only tool in the box. Plenty of Panda 4x4 stuff on YouTube, they have a huge following in Italy & France still and heavily outnumber Land Rovers in the mountains. https://youtu.be/_ErK8RsMI6k
  5. Just digressing slightly - our Panda doing a bit of gentle laning..
  6. You'd be very surprised - the first generation pandas are very good off road. Rear beam axle, front independent suspension, separate stayr-pusch transfer box, very light, very narrow and a good torquey little engine. Still used very widely in the Alps and all over Italy as they are superb on steep narrow snow covered inclines. I've decisively beaten a disco 1 up a slippery incline, even on road tyres.
  7. Yep, a customer bought a few and bought them in to get sorted to go on his forecourt. The red dust had got ingrained into absolutely everything - even inside the sealed instrument pack and dials. Think that's the most wheel bearings changed in one sitting..
  8. 😀 we're on a different grading spectrum I think. I'd call those rattles rather than failures 🙂 I worked on a bunch of ex-mine 110's that came over from Sierra leone - would be fair to say they were not lavished with mechanical sympathy , after all nothing handles like a company car!
  9. Bearing in mind how good the last few generations of Range Rover/Discovery have been off-road and on road, there can't be much doubt the new Defender is going to be more than adequate, and from the series 1 onwards the design brief was for a light utility vehicle which they have made progressively slightly more comfortable through the years . For heavy stuff they made the forward controls, 101, Wolf etc. Any extension of the envelope into a challenge truck, motorsport, heavy industry or having a cherry picker bolted to the back was always stretching things into compromise. I wouldn't think they would go any further with the new one, probably just more efficient, comfortable, modern looking with some light utility capability. The number of fatigue failures I've seen on 4x4's in Africa while I've been out in the wilds crossing deserts, long long corrugated dirt roads, smashing through bush etc, is tiny - certainly never seen wheels sheered off at the studs, apart from an old arab guys 'cruiser once, but he only had two wheel studs anyway. I did crack my chassis once but that was a 40 year old Range Rover on the worst road in Africa (Moyale Road back in the day before the Chinese fixed it) with 3/4 of a ton in the back. Sure, broken springs, exhausts, bits falling off - I was on a road so bad once that both my track rod ball joints snapped off, but given all those things, in an old cruiser, defender, patrol, hi-lux, you're getting home eventually, with wire, cable ties and a stick. Articulation - yes can be useful but not a game changer. My wifes old Fiat panda 4x4 has very little but will run rings round a Defender off road. What I do see though, long before anything has had chance to fatigue its way off, get broken or got stuck or otherwise due to poor wheel travel, is Discovery 3/4, Range Rovers, Modern Toyota 4x4s, ford rangers, Mitsubishi tritons etc going past me the other way on the back of a truck or abandoned in the middle of nowhere because a sensor malfunctioned, an ECU fried, a plastic manifold cracked or water got in to the electrics. Wheel bearing gone - no problem, just swap it at the side of the road - oh no, can't do that, need to swap the entire hub. No way i'm getting one of these new fangled things - in fact I've just bought a new Landy for travelling round Africa in - a 1970 S2a with a nice big pig iron 2.6 straight six 😛🤘
  10. I don't think I'd go up to 65, but had a very strange German pal who refused to run any lower than 65psi front & Rear as he knew best - and nothing wierd happened, much to my dissapointment. With 2 tonnes teetering high on tall tyres, anything in the 30s at the rear would worry me. 42-48 on tarmac works nice.
  11. Yes, if you take out the diaphragm pin then move the throttle lever, the pin should pop out. I've had pumps in the past that have had water/gunk as well as old tried up white grease and they didn't run well till a good dose of spray lube and a clean up of the innards under the diaphragm, I guess they would have done that as part of the service though. Check you've put the collar back in that goes under the diapgragm pin spring as well - wouldn't explain a sudden change but...
  12. Does it feel like you're getting full boost? Detached or damaged turbo to fip pipe? Westgate stuck open or out of adjustment? I'd certainly take the fip diaphragm out again and check everything's moving ok and the fuel pin isn't sticking - need to make sure it's out if the way before shoving the diaphragm back in as well. Otherwise it might just be an air problem - loose hose clamp etc.. It might also just be that for some reason you weren't getting the right amount of fuel through for the first week, if you've adjusted fuel screw, smoke screw, star wheel and diaphragm you should certainly have been making some degree of smoke - it might just be working correctly now 🤔
  13. And bare in mind, after 25 years or so, there's a very good chance someone has been in there before and adjusted the pump already, unless the guys you got to look at the pump did a full recalibration?
  14. Screwing the star wheel in further increases general fuelling (allows more fuel in off-boost) , I only move it a few clicks, and rotate the diaphragm to get a bit more on-boost fuelling. One and a half turns on the star wheel seems a lot to me?
  15. Only broke my first LT77 last year, in a very heavy 110 that did lots of very long distance hot climate work with plenty of sand driving. The cause of the layshaft breakage appears to be because I forgot to put any oil in 🙃 Done lots of very long distance work with other lt77s, no probs at all. It might just be your last repair wasn't 100% or the bearing was lower quality??
  16. There's a company advertising on Facebook selling those number plate adaptors for £1200 fitted! 🤑
  17. If we're hoping for a revised version of a 90 that was a revised version of a series 3 that was a revised version of a 1948 design, with a bit more elbow room, a rustproof corssmember, doors that don't flap and rot like a shiplap shed door, pig iron bumpers and a heater, there will be dissapointment all round. The 'Land Rover' is finished. The new car they are making will fill a niche, but it's not going to be military or utility, and it will be closer to a freelander than a series car for sure. It's going to be called a Defender as that name will sell a load of cars, like they used the Velar name. Will be interesting to see how it's styled, and there may be some interesting features - I have a slight suspicion the hubs for example may be electric motors - imagine 4 x individual powered hubs off road.. The marketing team at LR are doing a pretty poor job of keeping interest levels at anything above sheer boredom. Makes Brexit look interesting.
  18. The masters are the same as far as I can make out - the only difference of any note is the switch body for the sensor that screws in to the outlet.
  19. According to the article though, JLR marketing boss says it is a Defender prototype. Amazing that a photographer was present waiting at the side of the road as the engineering chief exec was taking a prototype out just before the head of marketing was able to give a very rehearsed sounding statement at the Paris motorshow.. They'll need to get something out there pretty soon, Tata share price is down due to poor results from JLR.
  20. If that's a disguised pre-production body rather than a frankenstein mule cobbled together to test drivetrain etc (I suspect it's the former), I'm interested in what's going on with the bonnet, which looks way too high, and probably why they made the side windows look shallower to match - also the unlikely looking front roof. If the bonnet is a more regular height, perhaps with design cues back to defender, the height of the wipers spindles might mean it keeps the defender style vent panel in some form? Maybe the roof has the Defender/series angular slope at the front. It might end up looking ok.
  21. I hope when they pull off all the shape disrupting plastic panels we will see all the exposed steel rust traps. Not a real Land Rover if you cant weld it every now and then.
  22. Eightpot

    Bent Roof

    Locate the internal roof brace bar which runs from side to side (should be where the roof lining plastic studs are pressed into) Put a bottle jack on the floor under it, a suitably sized pole on top of that and a bit of wood spread along the roof brace and jack it up till the roof is straight again - you'll need to go a way past 'straight 'as it will flex back a bit.
  23. Land Rover are great for learning stuff on, but I've seen many go up in flames due to diy wiring errors as the loom is tightly bunched with unfused high current cables. You shouldn't need to make a new wire to feed the heater motor, you just need to find the break in the circuit - there isn't much to the loom, and it's only an arms span from switch to heater so not difficult to trace. Making a little pencil diagram of the circuit including the switch, fuse terminals, motor will help you measure between each point and the next methodically and understand it better. Before you go too far though, identify the fuse for the heater and check both sides of the fuse are getting 12v, and also check the actual wire terminals on the back of the fuseboard are getting power- very common to get light surface corrosion on the terminals, especially the older glass type fuses, which needs to be cleaned up thoroughly to make the contact good. Make sure your volunteer is set to DC in the 0-20v range, and bare in mind that even if a terminal shows 12v, a corroded terminal or threadbare wire hanging on by the last strand may not deliver enough amps to power a bulb or motor.
  24. The gauge of the later chassis' certainly seems thinner, though I've never put a micrometer on them. I think that over the years, the quality of steel declined and possibly cut corners in painting them - I have a '79 Range Rover which is going to get it's first chassis patch this year, can't see many Td5/puma defenders getting that far. Out of the hundreds of Defenders I've worked with I would definitely say that up to 1988 the chassis/doors/bulkhead were made of much better stuff, mid 90s was ok then after 2000 they don't fare so well. Not scientific of course, just a general finding.
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