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Everything posted by Eightpot

  1. Just had a quick look - the steering box can be adjusted by slackening the big lock nut on top of the box, and screwing down the big grub screw with an allen key. Do it turn by turn and check the play in the wheel till it's just acceptable, don't over do it. Check this is the likely suspect first though before you do it - you might just be able to reach the wheel through the window while you're looking under the bonnet, waggle it and see how much movement is converted to movement of the steering arm - if the arm starts moving with little input from the wheel then it's down to ball joints and bushes. Hope that helps!
  2. There are a few things you can do to improve the steering - first of all you need to get down on the floor at the front end and watch while someone steers from side to side (while stationary ) If you see any play in any of the rubber bushes or ball joints (there are quite a few), get them replaced, and you will find this makes a big improvement. Also check there isn't any play in the hubs around the big chrome balls. You can also adjust the steering box to remove some of the play - there's a big nut on the top - I think there are directions in the workshop manual, but a search of the forum should come up with the goods if not. It's not rack and pinion steering, so there will always be a bit of play in the wheel before anything happens, but you should be able to reduce this down to an inch or two.
  3. Hi chris, could you give us a couple of grid refs for this lane? sounds good...
  4. I've had a bullet shaped see through plastic inflatable made, it covers the whole front of my 90 from grill to the top of the screen, and when fully inflated gives me a tear drop shaped front end. I can do 165mph now, and it's reallyhelped with river cossings as well.
  5. I wouldn't go anywhere NEAR a main dealer for anything - they're not enthusiasts, don't tend to know much about what they're selling and are driven by sales targets. Not dealt with a LR dealer, but had exteeeeeensive dealings with Merc and Saab dealers, total muppets, liars and incompetants. I would always buy private, especially a defender - you'll get it cheaper in the first place, and even if there is a problem somewhere it's not like they're difficult or expensive to put right. If you see anything you're interested in at the Defender Centre though, I can take a quick squizzz for you as I live a couple of miles from there.
  6. It can sometimes be a bit of everything - mine didn't go away until I'd: Balanced the wheels Replaced panhard rod bushes (primary culprit) replaced slightly worn track rod ends adjusted swivel preload (secondary culprit) Saying that, bushes and swivels tend to bring the vibration on at a lower speed- 45mph, and wheel balancing at higher speeds, so try that first.
  7. ....and DONT EAT THE KEBABS....
  8. It's worth considering Tunisia as well - if you're after sandy desert there's only a small patch of builders sand right down in the south of Morocco, but a short drive into Tunisia gets you into the good stuff, proper Saharan sand. The Atlas in Morocco are stunning though and well worth the visit, as are the salt flats in the south. Doable in two weeks but only just, with a lot of driving.
  9. There are three big sound problems to consider - Engine- most of the noise comes from here and comes straight through the tea tray that passes for a bulkhead, and up through the thin ally bonnet and through the windscreen. Make sure there are no open grommet holes in the bulkhead, your floor panels are well screwed down, the rubber rocker cover on TDi's makes a small difference, you will notice a big improvement if you get a thick piece of rubber sheeting (I use 3mm rubber floor matting from Machine Mart) and cut it to shape so it covers the top of the engine and tucks right down the back to the bellhousing, and as wide as you can. Ran it like this on Motorways and in the Sahara, no probs with heat or melting rubber. I also line the inside of the transmission cover with it - really cuts the whine down - might even stretch to a proper gearbox blanket one of these days. Tyres - Mud tyres are generally loud. But what you gonna do. I also put thick rubber floor matting down covering the footwells and as far up the bulkhead as poss, and in the load area - cuts out a fair bit of the tyre noise. Any extra bits of carpet etc are going to be a bonus. External noise - there isn't much padding in doors, side panels or the roof and a lot of traffic noise comes in from outside, especially on the motorway. Haven't bothered to do anything about this as I've got a soft top, so onto a loser really. Tighten up any rattly bits of metal, make sure exhaust hanger bushes are ok and not passing too much vibration through, and close any external air gaps in panels etc (make sure the cats escaped first) Most of the panels making up a 90 or 110 are large and flat and vibrate very well, like flat panel speakers. Anything dense and absorbant will help - machine mart rubber matting is dirt cheap and does a decent job - easy to cut and can be hosed down easily as well. Acoustic foam would probably be a bit better but more expensive and cant see it drying out very quickly. Thise Wright off-road mats look like the dogs danglies as well, read a few good accounts of them.
  10. ...followed closely by the Lotus Europa from which angle is a Europa beautiful? Is the judge looking up from an inspection pit?
  11. very late 300tdi exhausts just use a big centre silencer and no tail silencer - this is what I changed mine to when I put a tdi in. You should be able to use the tail section to complete the run.
  12. You can fit a bonnet mount kit or it's usually easy enough to find a bonnet with the mounting already on and just change the colour. One thing to watch though is tyre width - anything much wider than a 7.50 or 205 really restricts your view forwards - I tried a 235/85 and I couldn't see over the top sufficiently, especially on a modular which seemed to sit a little higher on the mounts. Even a 7.50 on a standard 6.5" rim is right on the limit really, best thing is to throw one of your rims on the bonnet with a 10mm spacer underneath and see what you think.
  13. if you read some of the Rover forums, the air/temp sensors seem to be the biggest culprit for rough running, also the plastic inlet manifolds can crack, though not sure if they have these on 1.4's. had a friend who had a similar problem, instead of listening to me, took it to a garage who promptly charged her £800 to change a piston funnily enough it didn't fix it.
  14. I used to have a n/a set up and have upgraded to tdi, but still have original brass expansion tank - memory might be playing tricks on me but I thought the larger diameter hose teed into the water pump bottom hose, and the smaller diameter hose fed into the rad, top left? Anyway, that's how it's set up now.
  15. Try bleeding the fluid, might just be air in the system.
  16. Easiest thing is going to be to remove the offending section, centre punch and drill the welded bolts out, and use standard bolts instead. couple of hours work?
  17. As said above, try Witham Specialist Vehicles, they have a contract to dispose of MOD vehicles direct. I think there are less and less unregistered GS 90's going these days but they might have a couple - follow the links for the tender list. Also check out the EMLRA forum, there are sometimes some ex mil 90's for sale there. The n/a isn't a bad engine, near indestructable and is surprisingly gutsy off road- not much fun on motorways though, you find yourself dropping down to fourth or even third on some long gentle inclines.
  18. if you don't know why you need a 2" suspension lift, you prob dont need one? Adding loads of compliance for extreme off roading might make your normal driving performance too wayward, but have a think about your priorities. If your springs and shocks are tired, even standard items will give you a lift - if you get higher rated standard LR springs you will sit a bit higher still - just changed the springs and shocks on the missus' disco for britpart heavy duty standard length springs and gaz shocks, and while they wouldn't get anywhere near my 90 they have made a massive difference to the ride quality and handling and added an inch in height. I've got terrafirma shocks on the 90, and HD LR military springs rear and 110 fronts - again a big difference in handling over the old originals and less than £200 all in. Diffs are still the same height off the deck, so not bothered about raising the body any more, like to keep it nippy on the road as well but each to thier own.
  19. I've toyed with using a 2 meter piece of roller shutter dooring type material or just ally section linked with bungee cord that would roll up to a long tube and stow on a roof rack, then rest over tailgate and bulhead to make a firm bed. It's only firm if you get the slats going in the right direction though....
  20. If you pull the bonnet release handle, you should be able to pull all the inner wire out leaving just the outer cable sheath. If you suck really hard on the end, you should eventually make your 90 pop it's bonnet. Or just unscrew the grill and lever the bonnet catch back with a screwdriver or grab whats left of the cable with pliers and tug it across.
  21. Don't know if there's a different process there, but my 90 was registered without an engine number, and they weren't particularly interested in taking it when I later changed the colour with DVLA and had another engine put in. Chassis/VIN number is all they were interested in. The police won't be particularly interested as there's no way to connect it to anything stolen unless you volunteer a whole load of information and force them to act on it. Depends on how keen you are to potentially lose your money and return something to someone who's probably been paid out anyway, but even then other than a missing engine number you don't actually have any information that indicates this is a stolen engine. Put your paperwork through best you can, get legal, and you have nothing to hide - it's not illegal to buy an engine without a number unless you suspect you are buying stolen goods, which presumably you didn't.
  22. Wot Gromit said - probably just the master or slave cylinder. They're only cheap - 40 quid should see it done, replace both as one will usually follow the other. Should be able to change both in a morning. If the slave seals have gone, you may not see any evidence externally as it tends to run inside the bellhousing - you may see some fluid coming out of the drain hole instead if you have the drain plug removed.
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