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Eightpot

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Eightpot last won the day on April 6

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About Eightpot

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    Worcestershire

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  1. Fancy dropping one of the worlds most iconic vehicle designs only to let someone else pick it up. Reedonkulous.
  2. Bonnet looks a bit fugly at first, but looks like it will be a pretty simple aerodynamic improvement over the Defender type. I like it, looks a whole lot nicer than the JLR Offender.
  3. Described as ‘Land Rover’s most capable and durable commercial vehicle ever,’ wonder what they mean by durable? Like tougher than a series? I bet that one in the photo doesn't live as long as my 2a even with the 50 year headstart 😃
  4. Not got any to hand, but from memory DeCarbon shocks are on the slim side also.
  5. I can't imagine you'll fit a TD5 along with modified gearbox, fuel tank (you need the high pressure fuel pump, and if you have a standard crossmember the TD5 tank doesn't fit without mods), airbox, all the other gubbins and bits you have to adapt (power steering etc) cheaper than you could make a nice job of overhauling the Tdi, even if a little machining was needed. Plus long term, a nice 200tdi 90 will probably be worth more than a modified frankencar. I gave my 200 a mini overhaul a while back, plus took some time to port the cylinder head & manifold, lapped the valves in, set timing nice, little wastegate & fueling adjustment, bigger exhaust etc and there's not a fat lot of difference in performance with a td5, certainly a tired old one. Only takes a day to whip the engine out and strip it down, so may as well check it first..
  6. Here's mine with a 7.50 - standard military style bonnet kit but minus the rubber cotton reel blocks which lowers the wheel a tad. Not that heavy but advisable to have the solid rod style bonnet stay rather than the hinged stay. Picking the right tyre helps a bit, some are heavier than others, especially retreads. Might help to fill it with helium 🤣
  7. I've used the sticky repair plugs a lot in Africa, very effective - had about six in one particularly dog eared battered old tyre before it got scrapped. (Once used a sticky plug & one of the big self tappers out of the footwell to emergency fix a hole in the bottom of the fuel tank too, worked a treat!) . Don't know about the legality in the UK, but as a get you home rather than permanent fix it's better than nowt.
  8. Just use a 7.50x16 as a bonnet mounted spare- much lighter, easy to see over and roughly the same diameter. Otherwise if you have good tyres fitted just carry a set of puncture plugs/some tyre weld and a pump and dump the spare altogether. I can't recall having a puncture on the road requiring a wheel change in the last 20 years..
  9. Have a look for small transport companies doing the Sweden/France route to take it for you - I use a Romanian guy occasionally who just does a back and forth run from UK to Italy via France/Germany with a flatbed & trailer to deliver the odd car. Very economical way to do it, works out cheaper for me than even paying the fuel and driving one there.
  10. My impressometer is flickering between -9 & -11 Would bounce up to around 15 if a passer by could nerf a wet sock into the intake.
  11. A grease point is useful, though the joints last a long time without, but yeah if you don't have a big press it's worth buying the joint/fulcrum combined.
  12. I posted a Range Rover roof panel to Italy a couple of years ago using a courier - wasn't that expensive, though it did look like a jamaican steel drum by the time it arrived...
  13. I may have a spare one at work, if so I'll bench test it. I've never noticed one grounding through the case but not looked for it either. What electrical problem did you have?
  14. I've had a container full of rooftents stuck invDurban since March, might just get to the UK in time for winter if I'm lucky. Looks like I'll have to cancel my December flights to joburg as well as they aren't letting anyone in till February..
  15. If you're planning on wet sanding it before top coat, I'd leave it overnight at least. If you are priming it over filler then at least 24 hours prefereably more to let it fully absorb into the filler or you'll get shrinkage and a spoiled paint job. If you want to do it quickly, are spraying, can get a good even finish without runs then just let the primer flash off till touch dry and spray the topcoat on. If you're hand brushing the primer/topcoat, I'd take it slower and let the primer dry properly before sanding it. Air dry synthetic enamels take a week or two to harden after spraying, but touch dry in a few hours.
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