Eightpot

The speedo drives come out if you can twist it round with a gentle hammer and small chisel/old screwdriver then careful prying on both sides at once then a bit more chiseling and a bit more prying after a good spray of plusgas. If you just pry it tends to fracture the rim.

If you do get one & need to roll it across a field, logs do work (I used old telegraph poles) but they quickly roll earth up in front of them and dig in causing lots of jacking & pole moving . A couple of long planks laid down like rails for the logs to roll along was the charm and it pulled along very easily.

Just spent a few days shifting a 24 foot site office container from one side of the garden to the other using poles and a mini digger - thought my heart was going to burst with the effort, glad I didn't have to get it on & off a trailer as well 😄

It wasn't just a cheese dream, I did indeed take my cat through morocco and down to Mauritania - link here :

Popped one of these in at work a while back - yep a lot more intetesting than a tdi, fitted in relatively well with the corvette auto, but it's not a small or cheap project by any means.. I'd rather keep it in something sporty and plod about in the land rover, 450bhp in a 110 felt life threatening.

Nice 110 - most of the ex military ones are actually 12v - the FFR (fitted for radio) types had a 12v alternator as normal plus a second belt driven 24v alternator that powered large battery packs in the rear for the radio equipment. Some or all of that has probably been removed on your vehicle. The easiest conversion is using a Defender (not Discovery) 200tdi engine, if you can find one in the US. Discovery 200tdi can be fitted but the modifications needed are in my opinion less desirable than fitting a 300tdi from a later Defender/Discovery. You will also need additional parts such as radiator/intercooler and the frame they sit in, various pipes/hoses, fuel filter housing, air box, exhaust etc etc. Plenty of info on here in archives/tech pages.

Difficult to tell without seeing it, but from your description my first thoughts would be to check points gap (if fitted) and check the timing and advance mechanism are set up and working correctly. Other things that can cause rough running are bad dizzy cap, rotor arm, plugs and leads, and check plugs are correct type/temp range. Also plugs these days seem to foul up and die faster than they used to unless I'm imagining it..

I've just put an m10 bolt all the way to the shoulder in an open 90s era salisbury axle, so I'm pretty happy thats the one

I had a diff pan bolt on the bench today and an m10 nut ran up it perfectly

Sorry, off sick at the mo and brain duller than usual - reading off my phone and didn't notice it was the pan not the diff you were looking at.

Yes my mistake, they are unf, which is the same as the diff studs.

Same thread as UJ bolts which yes I believe is 3/8 unc

Ah shame, no worries 👍

I'm 20 miles south but pass Bromsgrove on the way to visit my folks on odd weekends, happy to help if I can?

I had a good look at a new britpart tank today. The spotwelds for the baffles are very feeble looking, they are quite difficult to see. I see you dont have the standard tank guard fitted, but probably a beefier guard that bolts underneath? The standard guard might actually help if you added some thin rubber or similar padding between it and the tank?

I've got some britpart tanks at work, I'll have a peep inside one to see if there's anything of note. There's not much weight in them compared to an old genuine one, I fitted one recently and was surprised how easy it was to hold up with one hand overhead while I fiddled with the bolts. I guess when you get to the stage of replacing the tank, have a plate seam welded to the bottom which would prevent some flex and contain a drip. If you get another drip, I had great success with a big self tapper, washer and a square of tyre sticky plug- last one was on three years before I swapped the tank 😄

I haven't had the problem myself using old genuine tanks, but could well imagine the new repro tanks having problems. If you're around namib/sa you could consider getting an ally or steel tank made up, or even have a slightly larger capacity one made up. I guess another option would be to get another tank and clean & beef up the spotwelds with a mig?

Our trim guy at work uses a brush on window acid etch solution which comes in a little bottle, leaves it a day then uses a tiger seal type pu adhesive, but plenty of it, in the joint and over the back of the plastic , then leaves it to fully cure over the weekend. They come out rock solid.

Oh and if you fit half doors, the latches need to be swapped to suit the lift up handle style door locks

Quite a few parts needed Rear door can be chopped and converted or use a drop down tailgate. Rear crossmember hinge brackets if using drop down tailgate Doors are straightforward, use military or series style. A screen top clamp rail (there are different styles, need to match it with the hood) Front Door top drip rails and vertical channel which also provide the lip for the door seal. Side and rear rope cleats A frame of some sort for the hood with seatbelt mounts There are a few variations on hood fixings, some use rope, some dont, some have a fixed mount over the windscreen some are detachable, there are a couple of different detachable screen rail types. So check with your intended hood supplier first

From memory, the MoD tyre pressures stenciled on 110s were 28/48 for 7.50s. On 235s I've always gone a little higher at the front, around 30-32 and 45-48 at the back which works well. Tyre wear has always been consistent and even, it helps with mpg and I like the stability on gravel and it works fine on sand till you get to the real flumpy stuff.

Just for some info if it comes in useful, I compared some new britpart 300tdi gearbox mounts with some old genuine ones t'other day - the gen were softer, but have had 25 yrs of use - the britpart were actually quite soft and useable. The BP 300tdi engine mounts however are awful and made from rocks.

Another interesting gearing option from Ashcrofts on thier recon boxes is the modified 5th gear ratio which gives 1.2ish cruising on a 1.4 box - would work out well if you don't do much towing.

Draa valley area is great - sadly not many places left in morocco where you can escape tarmac and giant euro motorhomes.

Importing is one thing, but to register a car and get a licence plate etc you need a valid registration document for most countries - don't buy unless there is a V5.