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Eightpot

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Everything posted by Eightpot

  1. It always pays to 'walk the course" first when you're not sure, at least get out the car and have a good look. I came very very close to a spectacular untimely demise doing the same thing across what I thought was a ford in South Africa, but turned out to be a sunken bridge in a very badly flooded and fast flowing river which we only realised when the bonnet disappeared on entry. Don't know how we or the car I was leading got across other than we were very heavily laden and water poured in. I drive round them these days.
  2. Land rover had factories or licensed assembly plants in large export areas like South Africa, Spain, Australia, Kenya, Turkey, brazil etc, so there weren't as many direct UK exports of series/90/110/Range Rover as you might expect. You might get some general information from BMH at Gaydon, they hold records for UK produced vehicles including CKD, though a lot of export was done as a collection of parts which were assembled together with locally manufactured parts, and using local chassis or vin numbers. I don't think any of these factories exists anymore, and the production records are probably lost - I know the South African records all went in a skip years ago.
  3. Looks like its had a replacement chassis - it takes a lot of careful measuring and adjustment to get the rear tub, bulkhead, wings & doors lined up nicely but its quite possible to get a very neat job done as there is a lot of adjustment available in every component. That also means they can be quite far out when reassembled though. What you have there looks fine, a nice tinkering job for warmer days to make some adjustment.
  4. You can fit the 3.9 in-tank pump in a 110 n/a fuel tank, its the same size/screw pattern as the n/a pick-up pipe. A wealthy customer of mine asked me to fly to italy once - he was converting a ex mod n/a to 3.9 but his mechanic ran out of talent half way through. He actually hired a ramp at the local LR dealership and had it delivered there for me to work on & finish. I had to drop the tank to fit the new fuel v8 pump but the old screws were rusted in - I used a blowtorch on them which set the Italian mechanics screaming and diving for cover - I didn't know how to tell them it was a diesel tank 😄
  5. You dont have to take all the paint off, if its not flaking, bubbled, wrinkled or some other issue you can leave sound well attached paint and just smooth the surface with 180-220 and prime. Polydiscs are good if you do want/need to go bare metal though, or just use 120- 180 grit discs. Yes any bare metal, dust with etch, normal primer for anything else. If you've primed over filler, leave 24 hours before painting or you will get paint sink which will leave big marks in the paint. 300 is too fine for filler, use 80 for initial shaping of big dents, 120-180 for finishing up before hi build primer. Wet sand the primer with 400-1000 before top coat, make sure it's very dry before painting. You can use finer if you want. If you're going to use 2k remember my earlier comments, treat it like poison, don't let the hardner, mixed paint or the atomised spray get on your skin, your eyes or your lungs, and make sure the area is very well ventilated. 2k doesn't need lacquer, whether it needs buffing or not depends on your skill at painting and the kit you're using - if its your first attempt it may need a bit.. Let me know if you have any questions..
  6. Yes 2k is harder, but 1k polyeurethane aka enamel also sets much harder than acrylic or cellulose. It takes a lot longer to cure though - touch dry over several hours but a several days or longer to harden. Goes on nice with a 1.5 or larger tip spray gun or you can get good results with a roller and brush - it tends to shrink back a little when curing so takes some of the marks out. Use a very good mask and ventilation with any of the paints - you don't want airborne enamel hardening inside your lungs... 2k should be avoided without proper ventilation and air fed mask - yes you can get away with it a few times, but the isocyanates in the hardner are highly toxic and non-organic : once it gets in your body through skin/eyes/lungs it can't get out and is not very organ friendly to say the least. The long term effects of getting it in your system are very nasty indeed but the manufacturers don't really like to mention it..😕 Oh and everything mentioned on etch is correct, it bonds into the ally where ordinary primer doesn't, but don't use it like normal primer, just a light dust coating, then your filler and primer over the top.
  7. Hi - yes you can use the ERR1985 with no problems. This was fitted to Discoveries, the only difference being a slight difference in maximum governor rpm. It will not affect your engine as long as the pump is in good condition.
  8. It does look like it's leaking from elsewhere as well as the gasket - I wonder if there might have been oil/water left in the bolt holes before the head was torqued down? Also a slim possibility the engine fan is blowing the coolant around a bit making it look like its running down. Either way, I'd be whipping the head straight off and checking/replacing the gasket.
  9. As has been mentioned, assuming you're running a 235/265 tyre, a 1.2 box will be horrid with no upside. It doesn't just affect cruising speed but you lose flexibility in all gears. My rangie ambulance has 1.2 gears, is considerably lighter and much more aerodynamic and isn't pleasant on hills or even pulling away in 1st - I'll be swapping it out when I get chance. Any fuel saving from lower rpm is lost by having to use more throttle. Your pulse probably has lower power/weight ratio than an old army n/a 110 which had to be fitted with a 1.6 box to stop them rolling to a stop on a hill!
  10. We use Elring Dirko sealant at work for all engine & gearbox joints including sump pans - we don't use paper gaskets at all. Very good stuff.
  11. That's roughly my first thought, the noise does seem to be coming from that area. Annoying as it only seems to be a fractional thing but the sound is probably amplified being in the dry part of the casing. It will repeat the trick everytime you reapply the power as well. Just trying to run through anything daft I might be missing before resigning to pulling it back out 😕
  12. I'm working on a Defender with a freshly rebuilt Ashcroft transfer box, and struggling with an annoying loud clack from the box on pulling away and coming to a stop - it also gives a little kick backwards on the hi/lo lever but doesn't make the sound/kick if you hold the lever back. Have made sure difflock/hi-low engage fully, everything else in the transmission is new though the noise is definitely coming from the lt230. not come across this before - any ideas before I pull the box and swap it??
  13. The engine code is at the start of the engine number stamped on the block - it's a little hard to see on yours. I imagine the engine was fitted in the US after import as it would breach customs rules if shipped like that from italy.
  14. You may be over thinking things here - the process to change the belt is get to tdc so you can fit timing pin, then slacken the 3 sprocket bolts on fip. Take belt off. Get flywheel notch to line up with bellhousing hole. Rotate cam of necessary till mark lines up. Fit idler/tensioner but fairly loose. Fit belt round crank/idler/tensioner , then round cam sprocket making sure belt teeth are down snug - if belt teeth aren't snug on cam, move cam a fraction till it does. Belt should now slide tightly over the slack pump sprocket a little at a time - should be no need to remove pulleys etc. If you want to fine adjust how the pump is timed now is the time before nipping up the three bolts. Adjust belt tension, remove pins rotate a few times then check pins slide back when marks align.
  15. 200tdi injectors are the same on all cylinders. Some automatic 300tdi engines have an ECU controlled fuel injection pump that takes data from engine sensors including injector number 4, which is the same as the other injectors except it has a small sensor to let the ecu know it has just fired. 300tdi injectors are also 2 stage.
  16. If you can get it over a pit, on a ramp or on stands (with utmost care), take the drive flange caps and pto cover off, put in gear & turn a wheel or crank a little back & forth, you can normally work from one end or the other and identify where the slack is.
  17. The TD5 rear crossmember is different to the earlier style - it has a different profile on the back of the crossmember which is slimmer than earlier ones - the td5 tank only just fits in the space- If marsland have used the td5 crossmember on yours and fitted the brackets then no problem but if not, it will not fit (I've tried!) TD5 tanks have only a large hole on the top for the combined pump/level fuel & return unit - you can't add a side sender. Hope that helps
  18. No probs, and don't forget that 1k polyeurethane goes on nicely with a roller as well if thats easier- it shrinks back a little as the paint cures and can look pretty decent (especially as you wont see most of the roof 😀)
  19. The paint you are looking at is 2k polyeurethane that uses isocyanate hardner and 2k thinners. You need to be very careful with it, its not the same as 1k acrylic. Isocyanate is a poison and inhaling or absorbing it through the skin or eyes can be fatal in worst cases or leave you feeling ill and promoting asthma You can use it if you're careful, but you will need a very good mask such as 3M 4279 at a minimum (though should really be air fed), and also use chemical resistant gloves and goggles to stop the vapour entering your tear ducts. Once isocyanate enters your body, it never leaves. Don't use in a closed garage or one without very good ventilation/fans, and don't whip the mask off when you've finished and inspect your handiwork. 2k can be cut/polished after but don't leave it long as it goes rock hard - one or two days after max. If you can get it mixed up in 1k polyeurethane thats much safer though takes a lot longer to dry - I think there was an eu directive that stopped paints being mixed for cars with this though so you can only buy in RAL or BS colours so might have to get the closest match, though quite a few old LR colours were on the BS (British standard) chart You should still be able to get cellulose mixed also. Always use a primer, which is there to let one coat bond to another and avoid getting bits peeling and flaking off. Hope that helps
  20. As you've now learned, inspect hire cars thoroughly before and after collection and take a few photos, I never leave one without getting someone to inspect it in front of me. I always take out windscreen cover as well, been burned there in the past, and if there's any problem with the car, fix it before you take it back, extend the hire if needs be. I had to pay £400 for a windscreen chip once 😡 But back to your point, business use or no, I'd not accept those lousy photos as a basis for a charge, especially with the gap between drop off & inspection which is nowhere near reasonable. There's some good info here which might be of use? https://www.travelsupermarket.com/en-gb/blog/travel-advice/disputing-car-hire-charges-what-are-your-rights/
  21. When you say everything inside was greasy - I take it you meant the shoes and you have now fitted a new oil seal? Also on the early style handbrakes, they can have a lot of wear on the operating lever that the cable attaches too, its hinge and the expander mechanism, meaning you have to move the handbrake lever a long way before the shoes even start to move. Add that to a stretched cable and you'll struggle to get much to happen. Whip the drum off, get an assistant to pull the lever on & off and have a look at what's happening - the shoes should start to move as soon as the lever is pulled.
  22. I do this for a living and all I'll say is you'll get what you pay for. You need to decide what finish you're chasing and work to your budget. If you want it to look mint, 5-6k isn't really going to cut it unless your bodywork at the moment is very straight with no bubbling and you're not doing a colour change (ie inside/outside). The majority of the time/money is spent on prep, so do as much of this as possible, though bare in mind the painter is unlikely to trust your work before he covers it in expensive 2k paint so don'tgo too far. But if you have a dented bonnet, wings, rotten doors etc, swap these for better items if poss. Take off winches, accessories, remove carpets, even wheel arches and clean it till it's spotless. If you're happy with a more agricultural finish however, there are plenty of shops out there that will quickly flat, mask and spray it for a budget price but you'll be back where you are now with peeling paint.
  23. The ignition switch gets its power from the brown permanent live and distributes it to the white wire and others when you turn the key. An EGT sender is a resistor which is permanently connected to earth (your manifold). The level of resistance changes with heat and the guage translates that into a temperature reading (it's basically a volt meter).
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