Eightpot
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Posts posted by Eightpot
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On 10/19/2023 at 11:44 AM, Little mule said:
If you look at a 200 injector you can see the physical size difference between the two and the number 4 injector is different than the other three do to having a sensor telling the ECU the engine is warmed up.
200tdi injectors are the same on all cylinders. Some automatic 300tdi engines have an ECU controlled fuel injection pump that takes data from engine sensors including injector number 4, which is the same as the other injectors except it has a small sensor to let the ecu know it has just fired. 300tdi injectors are also 2 stage.
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If you can get it over a pit, on a ramp or on stands (with utmost care), take the drive flange caps and pto cover off, put in gear & turn a wheel or crank a little back & forth, you can normally work from one end or the other and identify where the slack is.
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The TD5 rear crossmember is different to the earlier style - it has a different profile on the back of the crossmember which is slimmer than earlier ones - the td5 tank only just fits in the space- If marsland have used the td5 crossmember on yours and fitted the brackets then no problem but if not, it will not fit (I've tried!)
TD5 tanks have only a large hole on the top for the combined pump/level fuel & return unit - you can't add a side sender.
Hope that helps
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No probs, and don't forget that 1k polyeurethane goes on nicely with a roller as well if thats easier- it shrinks back a little as the paint cures and can look pretty decent (especially as you wont see most of the roof 😀)
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The paint you are looking at is 2k polyeurethane that uses isocyanate hardner and 2k thinners.
You need to be very careful with it, its not the same as 1k acrylic.
Isocyanate is a poison and inhaling or absorbing it through the skin or eyes can be fatal in worst cases or leave you feeling ill and promoting asthma
You can use it if you're careful, but you will need a very good mask such as 3M 4279 at a minimum (though should really be air fed), and also use chemical resistant gloves and goggles to stop the vapour entering your tear ducts. Once isocyanate enters your body, it never leaves. Don't use in a closed garage or one without very good ventilation/fans, and don't whip the mask off when you've finished and inspect your handiwork.
2k can be cut/polished after but don't leave it long as it goes rock hard - one or two days after max.
If you can get it mixed up in 1k polyeurethane thats much safer though takes a lot longer to dry - I think there was an eu directive that stopped paints being mixed for cars with this though so you can only buy in RAL or BS colours so might have to get the closest match, though quite a few old LR colours were on the BS (British standard) chart
You should still be able to get cellulose mixed also.
Always use a primer, which is there to let one coat bond to another and avoid getting bits peeling and flaking off.
Hope that helps
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As you've now learned, inspect hire cars thoroughly before and after collection and take a few photos, I never leave one without getting someone to inspect it in front of me. I always take out windscreen cover as well, been burned there in the past, and if there's any problem with the car, fix it before you take it back, extend the hire if needs be. I had to pay £400 for a windscreen chip once 😡
But back to your point, business use or no, I'd not accept those lousy photos as a basis for a charge, especially with the gap between drop off & inspection which is nowhere near reasonable. There's some good info here which might be of use? https://www.travelsupermarket.com/en-gb/blog/travel-advice/disputing-car-hire-charges-what-are-your-rights/
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When you say everything inside was greasy - I take it you meant the shoes and you have now fitted a new oil seal?
Also on the early style handbrakes, they can have a lot of wear on the operating lever that the cable attaches too, its hinge and the expander mechanism, meaning you have to move the handbrake lever a long way before the shoes even start to move. Add that to a stretched cable and you'll struggle to get much to happen. Whip the drum off, get an assistant to pull the lever on & off and have a look at what's happening - the shoes should start to move as soon as the lever is pulled.
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I do this for a living and all I'll say is you'll get what you pay for. You need to decide what finish you're chasing and work to your budget. If you want it to look mint, 5-6k isn't really going to cut it unless your bodywork at the moment is very straight with no bubbling and you're not doing a colour change (ie inside/outside).
The majority of the time/money is spent on prep, so do as much of this as possible, though bare in mind the painter is unlikely to trust your work before he covers it in expensive 2k paint so don'tgo too far. But if you have a dented bonnet, wings, rotten doors etc, swap these for better items if poss. Take off winches, accessories, remove carpets, even wheel arches and clean it till it's spotless.
If you're happy with a more agricultural finish however, there are plenty of shops out there that will quickly flat, mask and spray it for a budget price but you'll be back where you are now with peeling paint.
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The ignition switch gets its power from the brown permanent live and distributes it to the white wire and others when you turn the key.
An EGT sender is a resistor which is permanently connected to earth (your manifold). The level of resistance changes with heat and the guage translates that into a temperature reading (it's basically a volt meter).
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On 7/24/2023 at 6:55 PM, ThreePointFive said:
It won't help, but the cheapness, availability and simplicity of GPS/GSM/5G/WIFI jamming devices has even base level thieves operating on the level of serious organised criminals.
In my view, trackers are a less valuable security layer than they once were and the major deterrent is to increase the risk of being detected mid-crime.
Most of the jammers appear to plug into a cigar socket, so I've removed mine and swapped for a USB port only. Obviously if they turn up with a battery or usb one I'm foiled, though only for as long as they have it present and switched on. Probably still remains the best chance you'll ever have of recovery, other seeing it a week later in pieces burnt out on landywatch .
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I used to run a cheap amazon tracker that took a cheap giffgaff sim and worked ok, but would drain the battery if left for a few days, then there would be problems with the sim expiring which meant dragging the thing out from its hidey place to swap and a bunch of other problems which meant it was not working more often than it did.
Just swapped to a TruTrak fmt100 that I picked up cheap from thier ebay shop (£29 for a ref I think), it just has a 12v and earth wire, works as soon as you connect it and after you're free 14 days its a fiver a month, not much more than I was spending on my old contraption. The tracking app is great, and after I'd had it switched on for an hour, they gave me a call to say hello! Very pleased so far, not sure how long the built in battery lasts so might get a seperate little 12v power source just in case. It's not a full on managed service, but I quite like that they can track it for you if your stood next to an empty parking space and your phone was in the glovebox etc..
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Lots of black smoke with high egt and low power seems to point towards a rich mixture - I think if your engine starts up quickly and runs smooth with a healthy amount of clatter you're probably close enough that a slight timing error won't rob you of that much power.
I would be revisiting the air side - check wastegate valve closes spring is set correctly, check hoses and make sure you're getting a solid 1 bar+ at the inlet manifold rather than the turbo to fip tube, valve clearances, any blockage in the manifold etc etc (a friend had a similar problem and found a rolled up sock in his air intake pipe!)
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I guess my 300tdi Rangie ambulance camper is a fairly similar profile/weight/kit and on 235s with a 1.2 tbox - it does start to slow down a little on long uphill straights but will hold 65-70 up a long uphill drag and had it up to 87 on the flat before bottling it (in Europe of course..)
Have you checked the pump timing with a dial gauge?
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Assuming you have good boost, compression good and fueling is set optimally, timing set accurately (with a depth guage) fueling isn't stifled by a blockage in the fuel line or pickup pipe /weak lift pump or blocked filter and you're getting all of your 110 horse power, consider your weight, wind resistance and rolling resistance. A load of weight, a roofrack, tall fat offroad tyres will suck a lot of energy from an already fairly small output. Dragging brakes, bad wheel alignment and stiff old ujs and bearings a little more. A 1.2 transfer box doesn't help on hills, and finally check the speedo - mines 10% out and always going faster than displayed. Probably stuff you've already covered but just in case.
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Was just browsing through Facebook marketplace and wondered if Maurice Wilkes might have had one of these in the kitchen when he was a lad 😄
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Just a quick thing that occured to me - if your series landy was built after 1980 it's probably an SIII S , which is slightly different and uses a different 6 cylinder engine to the series 2a/3 ex-rover engine. They have a stage 1 V8/Defender style front grill panel.
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I'd say you would be safe buying repair sections - as with most militaries there will be some strange specials with modified chassis, but I'd say an ex air force general service model will be standard. All of my South African series and Defender models that were built in Blackheath have regular chassis other than they did occasionally galvanise them.
If you need to double check anything, the SA4X4 forum is a good font of knowledge and you'll find a good few ex SADF guys on there. Leimers Land Rovers in gauteng are one of the main spares/repairs/sales companies, if you needed confirmation on a specific part, a polite email might get you a very knowledgable response.
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I had a 200tdi 110 with A/C in South Africa, which is virtually the same system - no problems in it cooling the car down, even with all the usual leaks out of door and panel gaps, leaky window seals etc. The fan unit is pretty pokey, similar to a range rover fan unit, so pumps the air out well.
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I've used the Td5 and Tdi standard aircon units, they work very well and get the inside very chilly. People like to jest that they only keep your knees cold but thats only if you were to point the vents at your knees...
In the meantime, worth considering roof insulation, window film or blinds and one or two marine fans if you haven’t already, good shade and air movement makes a decent difference, not to mention blocking the heat coming up through the floor!
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2 hours ago, Phill B said:
I'd say no. The 300 without the EGR had no ECU so everything was set mechanically. Yours does have an ecu so it should compensate to some degree.
Basically, if it runs well with no smoke, don't play with the pump
The ECU on a Defender 300tdi is just to control the EGR gubbins, it doesn't modify timing - and can be binned if egr is deleted. Discovery 300tdi autos with EDC had an engine ecu which did change timing though.
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A1.54 is about optimum I think, though you can go a smidge further depending how much advance you want.
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I've done many bulkhead repairs and unless it's a soft top the screen is always a massive pita to take off, but 90% of the time removal isn't necessary.
Have a real good invasive poke at the top corners first and clean it back to bare metal and see what you have - you will probably find that the metal under the screen is fine, in my experience this isn't where rust exists, it tends to start lower down and slowly creep upwards and unless you've got a real rotten b/h it may be good enough to make a slice a few mm under the top return to mig your filet repair section into.
I had a similar problem with my rangie ambulance and ended up having to unpick all the roof rivets to replace the top screen rail, rusty A pillars and repair the bulkhead - by the time I'd finished unbolting things to repair there was nothing left on the chassis forward of the seats 😄
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On 5/30/2023 at 5:00 PM, Arjan said:
Pity Mr. Gray is not back here
We were chatting via pm so I think he's ok for now and trying to get it ready for an mot for the first time in decades.. 😄
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Yep be real careful as above - I've had to do the same a few time on imports/exports and it's real easy to start removing the edge of the stamp and making it worse. I normally use a brass brush to scrub the loose rusty stuff, muck and paint from the number, then go over it lightly with a bit of spray paint till its uniform colour and your eye isn't distracted by the mottled surface, then usually with an angled torch shone across you'll start to pick out the number. Even if you still can't quite make it out, take a photo with your phone and mess about with the contrast/light settings and you may find it starts to pop out just enough.
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Help with 300tdi timing
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
You may be over thinking things here - the process to change the belt is get to tdc so you can fit timing pin, then slacken the 3 sprocket bolts on fip. Take belt off. Get flywheel notch to line up with bellhousing hole. Rotate cam of necessary till mark lines up. Fit idler/tensioner but fairly loose. Fit belt round crank/idler/tensioner , then round cam sprocket making sure belt teeth are down snug - if belt teeth aren't snug on cam, move cam a fraction till it does. Belt should now slide tightly over the slack pump sprocket a little at a time - should be no need to remove pulleys etc. If you want to fine adjust how the pump is timed now is the time before nipping up the three bolts. Adjust belt tension, remove pins rotate a few times then check pins slide back when marks align.