lansalot

Thanks guys, very much appreciated. I've always tried to stay away from that area of the vehicle (for some reason, the engine/TB nearly falling out didn't concern me), but I guess it's time to get the rubber gloves on and get in about. Is it possible some bearing might have died as a result of this leak, and if so, what part number would that be ? Cheers A

Leak at the hub, grease has been coming out a bit and I put a bit of oil in to see how bad it was (it's bad, it's dripping very rapidly) and you can see it in the photo here: http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/_lB...feat=directlink Can anyone advise what a) I need to replace, and B) where in the archives is the right procedure for doing it (eg, do I need to split the swivel? I think a bearing may be grinding a little as well, so can I replace that easily at the same time)? Am a little unsure of what I'm getting into here, and I really only have Saturday morning to get parts and get on with it before the trial on Sunday. Thanks for any advice, much appreciated as always. (edit: just realised how bad the swivel looks in that pic - it's the camera I swear, the swivel looks fine ) A

EXCELLENT NEXT JOB FIX YOUR CAPS LOCK KEY !

Thanks Les, very much appreciated.

Folks, any word on how to align the transfer box when I've replaced the mounts ? The problem being, when the mounts broke, I lost any alignment - and so now I've fitted new ones (which are still not all tightened up), I'm wondering the best way to get some sort of alignment sorted out ? Perhaps a measurement from centre of prop at either end to chassis rail ? I know there's adjustment on the mount brackets on the chassis rail (fore to aft), but how critical is it ? A bit of mis-alignment won't make the worst scenario in the world, presume the UJs will take up a certain amount of alignment anyway ? What's the best plan of attack here ? Cheers A

I dropped a post in the CAD archives asking/begging for a set of drawings for a set of captive engine/transfer-box mounts for v8 defender 90. Judging by the number of views it received, it would appear to be a lesser-ventured sub-forum, so if it's OK, am posting it here as well. Can anyone help with this ? I'm looking to fit it with top-hat polybushes as well, and would appreciate any size guidelines/guidance (and especially drawings). Thanks (While I'm asking, does anyone know if you can trim polybushes, ie if I get some that are too long for the application - they have a pretty comprehensive catalogue but just in case, will the hacksaw do a sterling duty without ruining them?) A

http://www.orrp.com/smf/index.php?topic=51138.25

Clipped reply: That wasn't my reading - saying a disc is scored and the pads are down to the metal doesn't sounds that he thinks they are OK to me. Maybe my understanding of how brakes work is deeply flawed however.. I had thought the owner wasn't supposed to be partaking in the test, in case they were fiddling the system, but anyway - take from that what you will...

Check all plug leads are connected and connected correctly as well. I had a couple off on my Defender 3.5, and mistakenly put two of them on wrong way round. Vehicle ran, but was lumpy and under load it (of course) missed terribly, throwing some loud bangs and scaring the boy racers behind me.

Take the HT lead off as well, petrol-heads ! Or for comedy purposes, wire all the plug leads wrongly

The tone of both articles was that they knew there were faults with the vehicle, especially the brakes, and decided to chance it anyway to see if it passed. Not that they put it in expecting it to fail, and would get a list of things to sort out of it. At least that was my take on it anyway.

Emailed this to LRM editors on the off-chance. If you have this month's LRM, take a look for yourself. Unsafe vehicles While reading this months mag, I was reminded of the trial of Nigel Gresham and subsequent coverage of his unsafe vehicle in the media (LRM included?). Mainly because two of your contributors, Thom Westcott and Frank Elson both admit in their columns that they were driving vehicles they highly suspected to be MOT failures. Thom admits to ropey headlights and excessive play in the steering, but basically goes for it on the off-chance it passes. And then seems surprised that other things are wrong with it. Frank on the other hand admits he knows his brakes are down to the metal and the disc is scored, but says "he took a chance with them" and "reckoned it would be OK". Byline for the column - "When Frank's Range Rover Vogue fails her MOT, he can't help but feel someone's made an error" - is suggesting that requiring working brakes is an error ? But apparently he's more focussed on the "cosmetic" welding of a couple of holes instead. Safety last ? Comically, his column ends with "maybe I .... should have shown up his lack of professionalism and knowledge". Frank, I think that's a case of the pot calling the kettle black. I presume you write your column as you know something about Land Rovers, so perhaps keeping yours in safe working order would be a start. What sort of message does this send to readers - should we all be running around ignoring essential safety items, only putting them right when and if an eagle-eyed MOT tester spots them, while quietly hoping they don't ? A rather ridiculous state of affairs I think, and highly dangerous. Next time some 4x4 disaster hits the press, I'm sure you'll be right at the front championing safety and how we should all clean our own acts up. You might like to start with your own.

OK, thanks for that. Haven't taken delivery of the vehicle yet, but it sounds like it may be a simple electrical fault instead then. As you say, over-volting probably shouldn't produce the symptoms I'm seeing. Last time I was out there however, I noticed a little device that looks like a suppressor(?) bolted to one of the coil terminals, and it had rusted completely through. This may perhaps be something to do with it, but I think probably not. Device in question looks like this: More pressing matters at the moment however in that the engine/tbox mounts in my defender snapped at the weekend while giving it far-too-large Cheers A

See for yourself !! http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RANGE-ROVER-4wd-PICK...:1|293:1|294:50

Looks like it was drawn by me when I was a child. Also liked the weedy-looking prop/axle on the yank truck

Thanks, but the belt isn't slipping I think as it's not just the battery light that comes on. Will check that though, thanks ! Apparently, previous owner (for yes, I bought it ) had it in garage at one point and she thinks they said rectifier/regulator may be faulty... Any idea how easy this is to replace or diagnose ? (Presume multi-meter will show it over-volting or something...) Cheers A

Hi Am checking out a 1991 vogue 3.9 EFI and it has a wee electrical problem. When the engine is revved, various lights on the dash flicker on. Don't really know about regulators and such, nor really where it is. Can anyone advise what the case is likely to be here please ? Thanks A

Spotted on ebay, nothing to do with me ! http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1974-ROVER-RANGE-ROV...%3A1%7C294%3A50 Looks like a pretty unique vehicle !

Also: http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=19

Thanks all, Mark your test passed (once I'd brushed the terminals up a little). Cheers

Thanks bogmonster, I'll give that a tr-waitaminute....

Ouch. OK, now I'm a bit confused. Taking on my jump-lead/screwdriver test-rig - is this right ? Negative from battery to bolt underneath Positive on battery to A Screwdriver across A to F1 -> winch in one direction Screwdriver across A to F2 -> winch in other direction Would this be right, or would it be... Screwdriver from A to F1 AND from F1 to F2 (thus in series) and Screwdriver from A to F2 AND from F2 to F1 (for other direction) Thanks (confused) A (sorry for dragging this out - just trying to test things without having to buy costly solenoids)

Superb. Thanks chaps, will give it a try and report back tomorrow. Stock up on 's just in case ! edit: actually, while I think about it - what sort of wiring load do I need to provide to F1 and F2 then, given the supply comes via A ? Thanks

Perfect !! Sounds like a top explanation to me, but I'm curious - why do I need 3 positive feeds for one that only requires back and fore ? Cheers A

Got a 2nd hand winch to try and see if it works. No idea what make it is, but suspect Prime Tech ? In the shed, we connected it to a known-good battery with jump leads in various configurations across the 3 terminals to see if any sign of life could be had out of it. Nothing. Bit of a spark in one configuration, but no sign of actual life. I see there's an earth point on the bottom, but to my mind, the top should be wired for one negative and two positives (one for each direction). Bottom earth not needed or... ? Can anyone advise, perhaps on some known-good test I can perform to see what like before spending on solenoids I might not need ? Photos below... http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/Ocs...feat=directlink http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/XP0...feat=directlink http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/89Y...feat=directlink http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/1Lo...feat=directlink Thanks A