lansalot

I got fecked off with the noise in my trials V8 90, so I dived into the dumpster at General George and grabbed a heap of extremely thick underlay, and spread it all over the cabin where possible (some little ali plates, drilled and riveted keep things in place at the rear wall). Seems to be helping a bit - but it won't be winning any beauty competitions any time soon Work in progress as below.

Ah OK, thanks. My slide ruler was a bit vague and I rounded down a little there. The sleeve thing should do the trick nicely. £186 up the swannee, so I better be happy after all this Cheers

That's brilliant thanks. The Y-piece I have is NTC2726 (item 3, page 28 here) and that terminates around 2" diameter. Jetex have 2.5" and 2" parts available, so I'll order the 2.5" variation (they do a nice little stepper-piece to go up a diameter, which is nice of them ) Thanks for the advice, much appreciated. A

V8 3.5, with range rover exhaust 4-2-1. Am going to be replacing everything south of the 4-2 with jetex and am wondering what diameter I should go for? The 4-2 exits at about 2" diameter, so is there any problem with keeping the rest at that size (I don't know about expansion and such - is that a factor?) ? It's going to be a single silencer box and side-exit. Thanks

@reads90 Two questions: where do you live, and when is the house empty ?

Probably a lot better than my v8! Count yourself lucky

OK, I just got a crappy lovely Sony CD player off ebay, you can have it for free for travelling-tunes. Deal ? Will be practising my steady-hand technique at Brahan on Sunday if you're about (Just read that last bit back - all sounds a bit worrying...)

Room for a "cameraman" ?

Yeah, but they look goooooood Was toying with the idea of a new set, and the Kumho's were on the radar (along with the Insa Sahara's). Giving up the Grizzly Claws for them, so would hope they might be better. Anyone any opinion on that ?

Also, I'm told Waxoyl does like a flame(if welding near Waxoyl, keep plenty of water and fire extinguishers handy). Does Dinitrol exhibit the same tendency for combusion ? Great job by the way, it looks superb !

I think the cherry bomb is about 3" diameter and it's located just under the passenger seat. Have a listen here: Inside, the reverberation is a bit much, but some dumpster-diving at General George gas given it a bit of silence thanks to some discarded underlay I fitted some more sounds insulation sticky-stuff that I bought off ebay as well, but I'm yet to take it out to try it... In short, if you do a lot of road miles - don't touch it. If it's mostly off-road and you like watching everyone turn round when you hit the loud pedal, go for it

I have two Greens on mine instead. Now the exhaust is a little quieter, I can hear the induction roar a little, but that soon gets overwhelmed when you hit the loud pedal. I guess if you have a really quiet exhaust, the induction roar could get a little annoying. But if you have a cherry bomb like me, that induction roar is the least of your concerns..

Thanks all Took my a while to get my hand in, but mission (eventually) accomplished. Don't think my welding in this instance will win any beauty competitions however...

Brilliant Redhand, I'd done a bit of reading and had come to pretty much the same on the rods. Will test on similar metal first so I don't blow holes in the good stuff straight off the bat Cheers

Thanks Al, but it's not galvanised (would give it a good go with the grinder first though - and thanks for the cynanide warning, I never knew that !) It's the pin that is attached at the lowest part of the hinge, that slides along into the eye on the cross-member. Pin is steel, so is the bracket (tailgate aluminium) by the look of it. Sample circled here: (not my vehicle, obviously).

Hi Am going to be fooling around with an Oxford RT 180 tomorrow to get a bit of practice in, but one of the things I want to accomplish its reattaching the pin on the tailgate of my defender 90 truck-cab to the actual tailgate. Can anyone advise what sort of rods I should be buying for this as I've done a bit of reading and even watched an instructional video off the internet to no avail. Thanks

Burns the legs of the rescuers as they try to prise your door open to get your limp body from the twisted wreckage ? (Though the isolator would stop the engine, naturally.. ) I'm wanting to exit behind passenger door as well, all that high-up space looks very tempting to stash a silencer. Hope I don't gas the passenger in the process, but you'd assume the wind will swirl anything out there around before it gets to them... Probably not much worse than it coming out the rear at the side.

Mine was on the dash, but the previous owner had ripped the wiring out - to conceal that the diff-lock wasn't working. Hope you're not in the same boat !

It seems to me that you're going out of your way to create a problem for yourself ? You have the arches, but you say yourself you don't need them - so why not leave well alone and stick the arches on ebay etc ? Makes it easier to get through the tight gaps in the trees as well

Sorry to dredge this one up again, but this article is really simple to follow and might clear up any remaining gray areas (if anyone still has any ): http://auto.howstuffworks.com/horsepower.htm For a comparison between a caterpillar engine and a wild car with the same horsepower output, check this out as well: http://science.howstuffworks.com/fpte5.htm

You can also just copy the file bookmarks.html over, it's in your "application data" folder.

And that's the missing piece in my jigsaw. Finally, I understand this stuff - thanks for that

Thanks BBC, that clears the tractor bit up. Re your graph, how come the power curve looks smoother than the torque curve (given it's just a mathematical transformation) ? Is it just a smoothing applied to the BHP figures ? (Sorry to go on, I'm naturally curious )

Thats a really good explanation. However, something bothered me in viewing torque/bhp graphs when I realised that bhp was calculated from torque - and that was how come the two curves didn't follow the same profile a bit closer ? Here's a couple of samples: http://www.dynospeed.co.uk/images/bmwk1200.GIF http://www.dynospeed.co.uk/images/ZX10R.gif Is it just that the BHP curve has been smoothed a bit ? I do see "Smoothing: 5" on the top-right of the graphs, but surely all the ones I've seen over the years haven't been done that way ? Here's another (blue, torque - red BHP) http://www.kometmotorsports.com/main/page_...dyno_graph.html As you can see in the latter, peak torque is reached much quicker than BHP and it persists for longer. So how come peak BHP doesn't follow the same profile ? *curious* (In case anyone's wondering - the holes early in the power curves on the bikes are typically meant that way, to help them pass emmissions and volume levels - a power commander would "fix" these artificial holes) edit: and another thing. Growing up on a farm, I've driven plenty of tractors over the years, and can pretty much guess the horsepower of a tractor just by looking at it. Typical here: http://www.tractordata.com/td/td800.html That's one my father had, but you can see that the engine produces peak 64lb/ft torque (albeit at 1400rpm) and 81hp. This really doesn't seem like a lot, but you'd expect to be able to get a hell of a lot more than that out of a 4 litre engine. How come these things are powered so low ? OK, it might take a few more revs to get a motorbike engine to produce 64lb/ft, but it's still not a hell of a lot more. And yep, we know who would win in a pulling competition between both. What am I missing here (apart from "traction/gearing - and lots of it!") - how come a tractor isn't fitted with, for example, a rover v8 or the TDV8 from a Range Rover? Why wouldn't it be suitable given it produces more power for a few more revs ? Help me out here editedit: yep, I know the tractor also has to power the PTO and hydraulics etc, but still...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1w1HS06tpI :)