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lansalot

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Everything posted by lansalot

  1. Thanks, some good advice there. Logically, I can see what I'm doing in here - really, I was just wanting to cleanly re-wire existing accessories (the switches in the centre console are front-spots, rear-spots, work-light and engine fans) so things were maintainable and reasonably accessible. Oh, and they actually worked (thanks, previous owner!) The black-box is a distribution-bar, and all 4 relays are powered from terminals on it. Ideally, I'd like to move the relays into a waterproof box in the engine bay instead thus clearing them out of the dash, but that's for another time. When I do that, I'll look into making it a bit more tidy
  2. I'm a simple man. Red = ouchy! Black = safe ! Simple Amazingly, I actually know what they all do - well, I should, I've had it all apart often enough. I don't know how to do tidy wiring, it always amazes me when I see others doing it like it's some black art. You should have seen it before I made my little distribution board. And you reeeeally should have seen it when I bought it... The special was the little wire with about 7 ends that was powering, ooh, practically everything which had (surprise!) melted the sheath clean off it before burning out. How the whole thing never went up in smoke is a miracle. Wish I'd taken some "before" photos now - you'd see what a vast improvement it actually is
  3. As a quick check, try a test drive without the wife to see if the noise stops ?
  4. Polish ? What's that ? Is that the brown stuff that lays on the ground ?
  5. Cheers Dan - Tom gave me the same name. Might be worth a try before I splash out at Jetex. Though I'll be surprised if he can beat the £100 the parts I needed there were going to cost me
  6. That sounds good - thanks for that. Not worth sticking the full headers on as the engine isn't that great, but I'll go for it as-is I think. Thanks for the advice
  7. Thinking of going a single side-exiting silencer route, but don't want it to appear too "boomy" in the cabin. Oh, what to do... Be annoyed if I spent the cash, fitted it up and it was worse !
  8. Any thoughts ? Am considering building my own exhaust from parts here. Anyone know what the silencers are like ? I have a cherry bomb at the moment and, not surprisingly, it makes quite the racket ! U447600 looks very cherry-bomb alike from the outside, but it's nice and small and would keep clearance down. Anyone got any recommendations on any of their silencers in terms of noise and quality etc ? It's for a 3.5 v8, it's a pretty stock (and tired) engine, but the cherry bomb is deafening at the best of times. A bit more quiet (but not tooooooo much ) would be nice. edit: oops, wrong URL !
  9. "Cant seem to get it up on the suppliers web sites" Maybe you're browsing the wrong kind of websites
  10. £45 is a hell of a lot for a bit of plastic though... ?
  11. Fantastic. I think I just got an idea on how to cover up all my seriously harsh looking wiring With that in mind, here's my "before". "After" to follow once I get my arse in gear. (ps - quite proud of my centre switch console... )
  12. Engine/gearbox mounts ? Not just the slack in the transmission perhaps ? Worn UJs on prop ?
  13. Apologies for the crappy/shaky camera-phone shot: Diff lock sensor circled:
  14. OK, I've now got the exhaust all sealed up, but that cherry bomb (while sounding great in the town and ) means it's deafening on the road.I've seen various kits and materials for insulating the cabin (90, truck-cab by the way) from the likes of Exmoore and Wright, but was hoping for some personal recommendation on one of these. As long as it can keep the racket down a bit and not stink if it gets soaking (something that could be washed out could be useful), that's my criteria. Any recommendations (apart from "wear ear defenders" - that's what I'm currently doing...) Cheers
  15. Thanks, but as luck would have it I'm just back from an illuminating discussion at Donald & MacMillan - who are in my home town. Turns out there is no olive - it's a matter of getting the right pipes, and in true Land Rover spirit, the manifolds I have are from a Range Rover. So the pipes I needed were NRC4220 and NRC4219 which have what's described as a "bell" end (stop sniggering at the back) and are a metal-to-metal contact. Here's hoping the rest of the pipe fits and they didn't just weld the head of it onto the existing pipe I have. Failing that, I'll be looking for a very friendly welder at short notice. Either that or I get gassed on Sunday Thanks for the help folks.
  16. I think you want JC520 from here: http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/product_s...=4&page=acc That's the 19mm spline, £15 + delivery any use ? Not sure if it will fit your wheel though, but I got the boss and a wheel delivered for not far off £50. Downside with that boss is it is quite deep and puts the wheel a fair bit forward. A date with the grinder/welder coming up in the future I think !
  17. .. according to a guy in Kwik Fit, the gasket/olive I'm looking for is shaped a little like a flying saucer - does that sound familiar to anyone ? (apart from E.T...) (incidentally, engine number is 11L20945A if that's any help)
  18. Hope you don't mind the cross-post folks, but I'm getting desperate to get a V8 part identified and I figure there'll be plenty of them in the RangeRover section, perhaps the right fellow for me doesn't venture into the Defender section http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=29046 Thanks in advance for any help.
  19. I hesitate to post this, as the drawing is probably as near to useless as it's possible to get: Looking for a ring with a profile as on the right I guess ? Below is the pipe as seperated from the manifold - no wonder it was leaking, previous owner looks to have tried simply to crush the thing into place: Thanks for any help (and no laughing at my drawing, please ) If these things don't exist any more, what about a set of more "normal" replacement manifolds perhaps ? Not expensive, hopefully....
  20. Thanks, but it was way oversized. I think with the vintage of the engine (Rover-P6 era), it's a bit off. Who knows what vintage the manifolds in this case are ? That's the problem with buying hybrids I guess, you've no idea what bits came from where. Got a steering wheel boss by chassis number the other day, and it turned out the steering gear wasn't correct for same. Ah well.... Will need to have a bit of a look around I think. Maybe a wee plate of aluminium might do the job. Need something to seal it up a bit anyway Thanks again.
  21. Thanks Western, should have mentioned the parts I'd already got. NTC1030 was one of them, but it wasn't one of the ones. Will try and check out the other on Monday. The other looks worryingly similar, perhaps it's of a smaller diameter in which case I might be in luck. (I think the others I got were ERC 2734). Thanks for the help A
  22. Hi Got a V8-engined defender (8.25 compression, roughly of P6 era), and when exchanging exhausts the other night we realised the olives for between manifold and downpipe were the wrong ones. The ones I got are just rings, but Brian says I need the triangular-profiled ones instead. Asked around a few parts places today and got blank stares. Same at LR dealer. Can anyone ID one of these please, preferably with a supplier ? The ones we took off are so far gone that a photo would be useless I'm afraid, but think of a ring that has a triangular-type cross section. Hope that helps ! Thanks
  23. Very smart ! I took the cheap option on advice from a mate - got a couple of camping mats from Halfords dirt cheap and no-more-nails'd them to the roof. Works a treat. Only for an off-roader, probably not what you'd want on a decent looking motor though...
  24. The problem isn't just the weight - it's the distribution of it. It's very lop-sided and makes moving it around solo a nightmare. Don't attempt on your own, and preferably get two friends to assist. To fit it back on, you risk damaging the oil seal - so do what a friend of mine did and cut a matching thread on some extra-long bolts, then grind the heads off the bolts. Stick those in, and then all you need to do is push the transfer box onto the bolts and slide it along, that way, it makes it easier to fit/align without risking the seal. Oh, and don't forget those not-so-easy-to-spot bolts that go in from the front ! Remember to put the box in low ratio and watch the lever doesn't foul the tunnel on the way out.
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