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About Madcowz

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    Scottish Borders

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  1. Madcowz

    Syncro Slick shift

    This thread is good timing as I was just looking into one of these the other day. The video certainly does suggest that the nylon cup requires the removal of the grub screw. Interesting that it just lifts out. I noticed that the 2 spacers that are supplied to raise the turret up don't come with any gaskets. Do you think this will be an issue? And has anyone with an X-Eng lock fitted one of these? Not sure how compatible they are.
  2. UPDATE: I couldn't get anything to work using the existing mud shield. Every time I tightened the nut up, it was jamming the shield on the housing and wouldn't rotate, slackening it off and the flange would rotate but not the shield. So I tried the new shield and it worked fine. Was able to torque it up and it was free to rotate. Odd. Not sure if the seal is different from the previous one but that's all I can think of. Anyway, just thought I'd update the post if anyone was having a similar issue.
  3. Hi, More help required please. I've reused the original mud shield and put the new seal and flange in but when I tighten the nut up tight enough, my transfer box won't rotate. It's only when I slacken the nut off does it rotate. Is this because I have put it back in the wrong order? I put the flange on, then the fibre washer, then the thick washer and then the nut. tightened it up to 103ftlb as per the Haynes book for the rear. It was then that I couldn't rotate it. Slackening it off until the nut is loose and it rotates again. Odd as I had no problems doing the rear flange.
  4. Thanks guys, I’ll drill, tap and lever the seal out tomorrow. Hadn’t thought of doing that so thanks. The mudshield is just resting in my photo as I didn’t want to press it in then find it was the wrong way/wrong part. It’s a long cycle to my parts supplier and pretty cold and wet just now. Will grease and press it on tomorrow (after putting the bolts in :-) ).
  5. Hi, I'm trying to replace the Front Flange and seal (STC3432) on my One Ten LT230 Transfer Box and have two issues that I could do with some help and advice with please. 1) I'm confused as to how the new flange & bits go back in. 2) I can't get the old seal out (I know, pretty pathetic) 1) The old flange had a Nut, thick metal washer behind the nut, and a thin rubber washer butted up against the base of the splined shaft of the box (visible in 2nd picture). The new one has a nut and a fibre washer. No metal washer and no rubber washer. Huh? Also, the new dust cover/metal thingy is a completely different shape to my current one and once installed on the flange, doesn't seem to leave much flange to go inside the seal. Let me add a picture to help describe as I'm not very good at words. 2) How do I remove the old seal? Unless I'm being an idiot, the seal is being very stubborn and I'm having trouble removing it. Am I missing a trick here? I've tried levering it out with a large screwdriver but it's not budging, it keeps on slipping and my forearms are finding all the sharp bits under the car and it hurts a lot. Many thanks, if I've missed out any info please say. Heds
  6. Madcowz

    R380 Transfer lever - Defender vs Disco

    Cheers Ralph. I managed to get a complete brand new lever housing from Ebay for not far off the price of a lever so I'm happy with that. Looking forward to fitting it and finishing off a job I started over a year ago.
  7. Madcowz

    R380 Transfer lever - Defender vs Disco

    Holy thread resurrection... I'm in the process of revisiting this job (and yes I know this was from March 2017. Me bad). I have tried straightening the lever without any luck so will replace. But, FYI, I have seen an angled lever in the parts catalogue and have attached a screenshot of it here.
  8. Thanks everyone. ive passed this info on to the owner and they are going to look into it. They apologised for the stain on my drive and I had to laugh as my transfer box output seal has leaked and my drum is like an oily swimming pool. And the drive looks dreadful.
  9. Hi, I'm looking after someones Landy for the night and noticed some fluid on my drive from the offside rear chassis. It is oily in texture but also smells like fuel. It's a 2011 plate so I don't know what that is in terms of version. All I can see near this is what looks like the rear axle breather tucked into a bracket above it and the fuel filler. Can't see anything obvious on the inside of the rail and nothing on the tank although the filler is just above this but from the photo you can see it doesn't look as though it is directly from this. Could this be a combination of axle oil from the breather and fuel? As I typed this and looked at the photo in more detail I realise I have probably answered my own question. Thanks.
  10. Thanks for the replies. Plenty for me to go on there. Jon, what depth are the RDX slimline? The Optimill is 32mm which is pretty slim.
  11. Hi, I'm thinking about replacing the steering wheel on my 1989 One Ten and I'm looking for some advice/opinions on Boss & wheel diameter please. I currently have a 16" diameter wheel and 36 spline (17mm ish) shaft. Firstly the Boss. Any recommendations? I assume they come with indicator cancelling pins and I would like a fairly short one so it doesn't bring the wheel any closer to my getting-larger-stomach. Is there a big difference between them or are they all pretty much the same? Would this Raptor 4x4 one fit the most common wheel makes that are available? Secondly, What diameter wheel have you fitted and how do you find it? Would a 14" feel too small after years with a 16" or what about a 15"? Or did you replace yours with a 16"? Opinions please! Thanks, Heds
  12. Thanks Neil, It was under the section: Rear Forward Facing seats - Outer but I realise I was looking in the Defender 130 - 1991 model year section which didn't help. I now see the BTR304/BTR5779 Now to decide whether to go for a Land Rover part or cheaper.
  13. Hi, I need to replace the inertia reel of the middle row outer LH seat belt. The part number I'm coming up with is: MXC5489 (VIN is FA....). On some sites it comes with the buckle (short end) others it seems to just be the long end (inertia reel). The catalogue image shows it is both long an short and fixings. Also the buckles have a stalk whereas the existing ones and the image in the parts catalogue are ribbon style. Is this a general update/improvement to the original part? Next question. Original or OEM. Not going with Britpart.
  14. Madcowz

    R380 Transfer lever - Defender vs Disco

    Hi Ross, Only just spotted your reply, sorry. I'm going to try bending mine back into shape as soon as it stops snowing/raining but if that doesn't work, I may well take you up on your kind offer. Thanks, Heds
  15. Madcowz

    R380 Transfer lever - Defender vs Disco

    Possibly, I might only find out once I've changed it over... Thanks Mo. You are right. I'm just loathed to work on the car just now as it is so cold out there... But I need to man up and do it. As you say, another layer of hiviz security is worth the effort.

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