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Madcowz last won the day on November 27 2018

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About Madcowz

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    Scottish Borders

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  1. Right, got a chance to look at this over the weekend and managed the few hours on Sunday when it was raining. The rest of the day, both before and afterwards was lovely blue skies. Anyway. This is looking good. Fitted newer 300tdi pump so had to sleeve the existing pipes with rubber to fit but so far this morning it started almost instantly. It didn't start on the very first turn but almost immediately afterwards. I'm happy with that and it's a huge improvement on it sitting cranking away for 5 - 15 seconds like it was before. Thanks for all your help and advice.
  2. Yeah, I've replaced the 3 little ones between the injectors. haven't replaced the longer one from 4 back to the FIP. If I can find out what the pipe is I'll buy stack of it and replace everything in there just to be sure.
  3. I've bought a 300tdi lift pump which I will fit at the weekend to at least rule it out. Yesterday the car started very quickly but today I had to crank it for ages. Odd. If I was to replace the pipe from the tank to the lift pump, would SAE J30 R6 5/16" do the job. It's the right size to slip on to the pump. Also, what is the pipe that runs between the pump and the filter and the filter and the FIP? It's thinner and a hard plastic. Thinking I might replace all of them to rule them out as well.
  4. I had a look at this tonight and it did seem a little damp where it joins to the rubber sleeve so I gave it a wipe and will check it later tonight/tomorrow to see if it is damp again without me having driven it and got it wet. The metal pipe isn't looking too pretty so I may replace it. I will Google check valve as I'm clueless on that. Are there any tests I can run to check this or is it easier to just replace the lift pump?
  5. Ok. Been out and spent some more time under the bonnet. I opened the bleed screw and had to pump the lift pump quite a few times before any fuel came out so it seems that the leak is between the tank and lift pump. I've had the original pipe replaced with rubber pipe so tightened up the rubber sleeves where it joins the tank metal pipe and also changes to narrow bore before it goes into the pump. Also tightened up the fuel filter as that was a little loose. Will report back when I've given it a few hours to drain off or not hopefully.
  6. Hi, My 200 tdi has suddenly become hard to start if it hasn't run for a while. If it has just run it fires up straight away. When starting it will crank over and over and over then catch and stop then catch again, run very lumpily then start running normally with a blip of the throttle. There is always white smoke on start up which clears as it heats up. Once running it is fine, there is plenty of power and I can't detect any issues. No hunting, surging etc etc. My plugs are only a few years old but I haven't taken them out to test on the bench. I'm getting 10v at each one My battery is at 12.5v Earth strap is fine (tested with jump cable from battery negative to chassis and also engine) Starter isn't sluggish and spins at normal speed New fuel filter fitted New leak off pipes between injectors fitted (but not pipe back to FIP) FIP was replaced in 2011 Injectors have had no love since I bought the car (100K +) so that is on the list to do. Today I took out the fuel filter housing bleed screw and unplugged the FIP stop solenoid wire and cranked the engine over while watching it on a video camera. There was no fuel coming out of the bleed hole despite plenty of cranking. I then replaced the solenoid wire and tried again and there was instantly a gush of fuel from the bleed hole. Now. I'm not the brightest sandwich in the tool box but I'm pretty sure the lift pump is manual so I think the FIP solenoid wire has no bearing on the lift pump and this was a coincidence. Which means that fuel is possibly leaking back from the filter back to the tank and I had to crank it a lot to prime the line again. Based on the symptoms and bits and bobs I've played with. What tests should I try and what should I be looking at next? Many thanks.
  7. Thanks for all the replies. I used the B+ terminal. The loom has two inline fuses to the relays so all good. It's made a huge difference to the headlights. They have gone from a feeble orange glow to white just like all those modern cars. Well impressed. Must admit, getting the alternator back in was a pain. Spent ages trying to line it up properly with the mount. got there in the end.
  8. Evening, I've searched Googlies and this forum but haven't yet found an answer. I'm fitting a landreiziger loom to my 1989 One Ten with a retro fitted Disco 200tdi and it says to take a feed from the alternator and comes supplied with a ring terminal. I've got the alternator on the bench, cleaned it up and in addition to the main wiring I can see a W and B+ terminal. I know the W is for a stator pulse but would I be correct in saying the B+ is a battery feed and I can use this for the loom? Also, is this a A127 alternator? I haven't seen any stickers or part numbers yet but it could be under the rest of the grime. Thanks.
  9. Thanks for replies. So some say it's a fault and others say it is normal behaviour and ok.
  10. I didn’t even know ABS was such a thing on Defenders until recently when I was watching a video on replacing the swivel bearings and it was mentioned.
  11. Cheers. So we’re thinking a MC (or ABS) leak rather than expected behaviour.
  12. Hi, I've recently been driving a new (2010) 130 which is lovely compared to my rattly One Ten but the brakes are odd and I'm looking for advice. The servo works fine and it brakes really well with a firm pedal (not as firm as mine but I have just replaced the brake system very recently except servo and pump) but if you brake to a stop and keep your foot pressing on the pedal, it slowly drops all the way to the floor. It is slow and not a sudden drop but it does sink all the way. Both their same aged vehicles do exactly the same. Their garage have checked it over, checked for leaks, checked brake fluid and checked the master cylinder for leaks (not sure how they did that) and then asked one of their "Ford time serviced mechanics" who said that its a transit engine and components, and that transits do exactly the same and release brake pressure after stopping and "they all do that". As anyone who has seen my previous posts on this forum knows, I'm no expert but this doesn't make sense to me.
  13. Madcowz

    Syncro Slick shift

    This thread is good timing as I was just looking into one of these the other day. The video certainly does suggest that the nylon cup requires the removal of the grub screw. Interesting that it just lifts out. I noticed that the 2 spacers that are supplied to raise the turret up don't come with any gaskets. Do you think this will be an issue? And has anyone with an X-Eng lock fitted one of these? Not sure how compatible they are.
  14. UPDATE: I couldn't get anything to work using the existing mud shield. Every time I tightened the nut up, it was jamming the shield on the housing and wouldn't rotate, slackening it off and the flange would rotate but not the shield. So I tried the new shield and it worked fine. Was able to torque it up and it was free to rotate. Odd. Not sure if the seal is different from the previous one but that's all I can think of. Anyway, just thought I'd update the post if anyone was having a similar issue.

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