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eclipse

Getting Comfortable
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  1. 200 tdi head gasket I have replaced the head gasket twice in the past 18 months. The first time I did not have the head skimmed so I put it down to that why it failed again so soon. It starts to build pressure and I do not get a heater on tick over. the second time I had the head pressure tested and skimmed but it has gone again I have not been using genuine gaskets so I am wondering if that could be the problem so I am going to use a erling gasket this time but I am not sure if to use hylomar on the gasket. I have read for and against using hylomar I have even spoke to some one at erling and they said cheque the instructions in the gasket packet when it arrives I will have a read but they recon not to use it. Any suggestions.
  2. My rrc brake pads rattle in the front callipers they rattle when going up speed ramps hitting pot holes even slight bumps in the road will make them rattle. And if I jack it up and turn the wheel backwards and forwards I can get it to do it then the pads rotate slightly with the disk hitting the side of the pad on the calliper The rrc is a 1993 and only has pins and springs holding in the pads. I have recently had all four callipers of and cleaned them refitting them with stainless pistons new seals and fitting drilled and grooved disks new pads and retaining clips but it made no difference except stopping extremely well and in straight line it seems worse.
  3. I have back flushed the heater but I had disconnected it from the matrix to do so the flow was good and was very clean its probable going to be worth doing it again and the system as well. The temp gage sits where it always dose just under half way I have had the temp gage go back down to cold while I have had it running on ticking over also on a couple of occasions the temp gage will sit on cold from start up for ages then suddenly goes up very fast to its normal point. I have never had it over heat just pressurize and blow its water out. Thanks Dave.
  4. It has not always been like that it had a brilliant heater moving or not over the last two winters I have had no problem. And it never suffered from excessive pressure before people have suggested air locks but I have over the past three years of owning it have drained and refilled the coolant system three times and never suffered from air locks just fill and go. Thanks Dave
  5. 1993 range rover classic 200 tdi non air con Hi I have noticed that when I am parked with the engine just ticking over my heater after a few minuets goes cold if I rev the engine to around 1500 revs I then get heat back and when I drive it it is fine to I have had no problem over heating or loosing water. I fitted a new thermostat and radiator and have flushed the system hoping that it may cure the problem but it has made it worse now I lose the heater when I am driving or revving the engine then it will come back its sporadic all the time it also is building pressure. I can run it and leave it over night and in the morning if I loosen the expansion tank cap it hisses and water will come out it still has got loads of pressure left in it. I have had the head gasket replaced around four months ago but I did not have the head skimmed but it has been running ok after that I did 100 miles in it the other day and I was losing the heater all the time when I got back to my friends house I had a look at it and there was no pressure and all seemed ok I drove the five mile back to my place and when I parked up and switched it of it started poring steam out and blowing water out of the header tank. I have had it block tested twice and there are no gasses in the water but I am planning to take the head of in a few days and have it tested and skimmed as I am not sure what else could be coursing this problem. Has any one come across this problem before? Thanks Dave
  6. Hi I have got a problem with the brakes on my 93 RR classic 200 tdi. I have recently fitted on the front and rear stainless steel calliper pistons with new piston rubber kits drilled and slotted disks with mintex pads. I was bedding them in doing no excessive braking for about 500 miles. I was approaching a turn started to brake and it felt as if the brake pedal notched down a little further than usual and I had only 40% ish of my braking power. When I stamp on the brakes at 30mph I sometimes am able to lock a rear wheel at 50mph + it will come to a slow stop but will not lock the wheels and at that speed I am able to smell the brakes getting hot Since then I have had the master cylinder changed along with the servo but has had no effect on the brake problem. I have had new brake pipes fitted just 12 months ago the only parts that are not new are the flexes and the compensator valve. The only difference we can remember is the front disks had a gold coating and no oil on witch has come of now with use and the rears was machine finished and had the protective oil on them.
  7. The head gasket has blown on my 200tdi I have got it all striped down apart from one injector it is stuck in the head I have the head of the block on the bench and have tried taping it twisting it got plenty of penetrating oil on it but it is stuck fast I have left it socking over night to see if it frees up for the morning but wondered if any one out there knows of a way to remove it all the rest came out relatively easy with a twist and a tap.
  8. Hi dose any one know if a pedal box from a auto discovery is the same as a auto range rover I am converting my range rover and have the chance of one from a discovery.
  9. The 300tdi would probable be the one to do but I am sure that I have heard that the 300tdi is not as reliable as the 200ds or is that just a myth?
  10. The alternator problem is now solved I had a word with a company near to me that recons starters and alternators and they built me a 120 amp alternator in two hours for £40 and it works my rev counter fantastic. Still no wiser to what gear box and bits I need to convert it to a auto I have the chance of a auto box out of a v8 petrol that is at work I think its a late 70s early 80s but I don’t wont to buy it and strip it all out just to find out it don’t fit or it is not the best box to use.
  11. Hi I have a 1993 200 tdi manual range rover classic and am considering converting it to an auto can any one tell me what would be the best gearbox to use and any parts that I would need. I have very limited knowledge about it numbers/makes and what it all means. I also would like to upgrade my alternator to a more powerful one and one that will work my rev counter as the previous owner has fitted one of a diesel escort and it will not work my counter any help would be much appreciated. Thanks Dave
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