Texpis

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About Texpis

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  1. I've done this on on series 3 88" you need a kit from Ashcroft unfortunately they aren't cheap. The other problem is the Lt 77 is 4" longer so something has to move. http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/the-series-vehicle/series-5-speed-kits.html
  2. Standard or upgraded?
  3. So I guess you have defender axels I am hoping not to loose the look of the series or is there another way of getting 4 wheel drive? Mick
  4. Cheers for the replies guys I quite like the thought of the series looking stock inside, if you use the adapter plate with the standard series three transfer box do you need to change the tunnel and floors for the lt77 / r380 gearbox. Also which gearbox do I need I would guess defender! Mick
  5. Shame he isn't a bit nearer would have had a punt at that but he won't post! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Series-land-rover-v8-rover-adapter-plate-exhaust-pipe-and-engine-mountings-/141589068283?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item20f75db9fb
  6. Hi all from my previouse thread about sticking in gear looking like the box will have to come out. The Landy has a 2.8 ford cologne engine with Range Rover diffs and is surprisingly spritely. If I am to remove the gearbox I would probably refresh the engine and maybe fit a 5 speed box. It has a galvanised chassis so I would like to keep cutting to a minimum. I looked on Ashcroft site and they have 2 ways of doing it one is the adapter which puts a 5 speed box on the original transfer box, this moves the engine forward 4" I don't think this is a problem and would be my preferred route but this kit is £450 which is quite expensive. Is there anything else needed to fit this kit eg different floor panels gearbox crossmember removed? The other way is using the defender transfer box and they sell a mod that removes the centre diff so making it 2 wheel drive and when locking the diff it turns to 4 wheel drive. Has anyone done any of these mods. I did do a search but could realy find anything. Mick
  7. Okay guys clutch well and truly bled I conviced there is no air in the system. Bit more info on the problem, in third gear it seems like it pops out of gear but it doesn't if you see what I mean. If you try and change gear then it won't come out, if you push it back into gear then it will change. Second gear is ver Granchy (is there such a word) and jumps out of gear. Mick
  8. Hmm thanks for that will look into it Mick
  9. Hi all a bit of advice please. I have bought a series 3 with a known gearbox problem. The gearbox was replaced with an recon unit after 6 months it started to stick in gear you literally can't get it out of gear until you Rev the engine a bit. He was going to send the gearbox back but with family problems it got dumped in his garden for about 5 years. I have just repaired the footwells and serviced the engine and done loads of other jobs thinking I can get away with the gearbox problem, it when for a drive today and it's imposible to drive I believe it's mainly third and it happens after acceleration and deceleration. I know it's a gear box out but is it an easy repair? Bearing etc should be okay what do you think. Oh and it's a 1982 so I believe that is the later type box. Mick
  10. Ha flipping brilliant, nice to see someone enjoying themselves. Mick
  11. Hi can't answer your question on the fork but it certainly sounds like the fork being punched through. I have just changed the clutch on my V8 90 and found the best way was to disconnect the gearboxes and move them back on a troll jack resting the bell housing on the crossmember. Easy to get int the clutch then. Mick
  12. The diff will stay locked as long as there's air in the compressor receiver if there's no leaks could stay locked for a while better to control diff lock solonoid. Mick
  13. 4 pin diffs are different to standard diffs, standard are 2 pin not as strong. Mick
  14. Hi I have a 1988 90 V8 my fuel pump is an in tank pump accessible under the driver side seat. It has a relay and this relay is cut of via the oil pressure switch. Whether this is normal I don't know I guess the idea is if the oil pressure is low the car will stop when the carb is empty. You should be able to hear the pump running if it isn't try disconnecting the oil switch, this will enable the pump to run. Mick
  15. I'm not sure how you have removed the belt without a pin of some sort, the pump when in the correct position is like on the top of a spring loaded cam. ( hard to explain) but would not stay in the same position when the belt is removed. The correct way is align the crank timing point and the pin should slip in the pump hole keeping it in position, change the belt and everything will be fine. The correct pin is not necessary a drill will do I think its 6mm. I will be very surprised if the timing is not out by a fair chunk could have gone either way. Mick