white90

The following supplied by ADS, Thanks ============================= The usual problem s that the voltage sensing relay has gone faulty and yes you can do without it. The feed from the switch just operates the coil of the relay in series with the volatge sensitive switch (hope I am not losing you here !). The voltage sensing relay was put there to ensure that the heated rear window element could only be operated if there was an output from the alternator. As the control relay is initially fed from the ignition side of the switch it would only work if the ignition is on - so why worry about this VSR ? It is a costly item to replace and something you can do without. First check the switch has a feed to at least one side of the switch then measure/check the voltage from the other side of the switch down to earth to determine whether the feed goes through the switch. Check the switch in fact operates - they are a cheap and nasty switch that do fall apart. I would then undo about 4 screws to release the instrument panel - try to ease it forwards as much as you can so that you can shine a torch down behind to the bottom right to see if you can locate the yellow plastic relay and the black one (they are both about 1 inch square). These are tucked a fair way down and are a push fit onto a metal 'tongue' that is fixed to the rear of the bulkhead. ease both relays off their fixing so that you can get to the wiring on the bottom of them. The length of the wiring to these are not over generous and you might struggle a bit with this. What you need to do now is to remove the black/pink cable from the coil connection of the black relay and put some insulating tape on the bare end/spade terminal as this goes off to feed the voltage sensing relay in series with it (you won't need this relay again and if you tape it up it will make it safe - you can then put the yellow relay back). Now make up a length of black cable and put a spade connector on one end and connect this back onto the same relay terminal that you removed the black/pink cable from. The other end of this cable should be put down to a convenient earth point on the metal bulkhead (use a circular terminal, shell washers anything that a bolt or self tapping screw will hold firm). If you now operate the heated rear window switch you should hear the black control relay click and if the lamp is in order you should illuminate the symbol on the dash. The next bit is to put the black relay back on it's tongue/post - easier said than done as it is a bit fiddly and hey presto the job is done bar putting the instrument panel back remember to changee any of the 'knackered' panel lamps at the same time, they are very easy to do - just a 90 degree twist. Well it sounds easy doesn't it - it is but just fiddly. I did mine in the dark as I could see what I was doing better behind the instrument panel from torch light. Regards ADS

A topic for discussion there are a fair few ways retaining L/R Axles: ring/pinions Maxidrive 30% Reduction gears Ashcroft Crawler box Ashcroft transfer gears (in pipeline) After the fitment of 33's and 35's the gearing on my defender was raised to the point that descents were lets say intresting! drive assist winching was wrecking the clutch I considered the KAM R/P's but decided that specials such as the 4.75 with the supply not readily available and not wanting to buy a spare set to keep just incase. Seriously got into the process of ordering the Maxi drive gear reduction set then got sidetracked with the Ashcroft options after seeing a crawler box install on Pirate4x4 contacted Dave and was told the crawler was no longer in production but there was the option of a set of transfer gears to lower the ratios to a more user friendly set in the pipeline, So the M/D were put on the back burner. Time passed awaiting thier arrival/production. Enter Diff with a post on here a few weeks back highlighting a certain 110 for sale that had a crawler box fitted... this unit allows you to retain the gearing you currently have in High/Low but adds the option of low-low. Many e-mails later Mark AKA Scrumps and I set off to The Midlands to return later that day with the aforementioned Crawler box. I set about installing it to be stumped at the first hurdle as the mid exhaust box was in the way, Once this was chopped off installation continued all fine a fiddly process to get the pre load right then to fabricate the lever onto my 90(this is a work in progress after the lever broke and had to be re welded) all seems well then to find the handbrake drum touches the crawler, Enter the angle grinder/Eye/Hospital senario. All installed 90 back together oil leak from drain sorted, New exhaust box added that fitted the space available. Now to test it, Engaged Low in transfer box and introduce crawler box, the 90 creeps slow enough to get out and walk faster than it if you so wish. this will be great for drive assist winching should this be required. I'm very pleased with my choice and would like to thank again: Diff Scrumps David Ashcroft Chris Watts anyone on here who also offered advice.. Some pics for anyone intrested are to be seen in the thread titled crawler install.

I've fitted a Hella Intermittent Wiper Unit on my 110. It has a rotary switch/potentiometer (like an old-fashioned radio off/on-volume switch) Here's a piccy -

All of this is with thanks to PaulMc --------------------------------------------- The 5-way connector shells for the 2002 switches are (Tyco) AMP MultiLock and are as follows - 347477-1 (Black) - Fits Front and Rear Fog Lamp Switches 347477-2 (White) - Fits Heated Front Screen and Rear Wiper Switches 347477-3 (Blue) - Fits Heated Rear Window and Rear Wash Switches 347477-4 (Green) - Fits Heated Seat Switches See AMP Drawing - 5-Way Receptacle Housing - MultiLock TRW Switch The terminals are a female receptacle, AMP part number 345208-1 They are also available as a bag of 50 from RS Components - catalogue number 362-9367. I managed to get some Black, White and Blue (they didn't have Green) connector shells and some terminals on a strip from this company - Heart Electronics I couldn't get (or identify) the 6-way connectors used for the Electric Window Switches, or the 10-way connector used for the Hazard Warning Switch. For the Electric Window Switches I've used individual terminals insulated with small sleeving. For the Hazard Warning Light Switch I managed to find a suitable connector from a crashed late-series Rover 200 in a scrappy (they use similar switches to the 2002 Defender and the Hazard Warning Switch is the same, but mounted vertically rather than horizontally), I've had to carefully un-crimp and re-use the terminals. The wiring and switch pin-outs are in the RAVE 2002 CD electrical libraries and wiring diagrams, as are the Land Rover part numbers for the connectors, although my main dealer cannot find them as orderable parts. Here are some screen grabs for the switches and their connectors from the RAVE 2002 CD - You can download the full size images in a .zip file here - http://www.hubbard.nightmail.ru/All_Switches.zip All Defender 2002 Switches - The link to the .zip file doesn't work - Go here - Index and select All_Switches.zip for download You can download a .pdf of the Defender 2002 wiring diagram here - Defender 2002 wiring diagram All the 2002 switches, except the Hazard Warning Switch, are not suitable for switching loads directly - use them to switch relays. The "One Touch, Push-Push" Rear Fog Lamp Switch switches the earth on an ECU (YWC104430L) which costs about twelve quid new. I also managed to get a suitable 4-way connector for this from the same scrapped Rover 200 and re-use the terminals in the same way as the Hazard Warning Switch. I hope this info is helpful, Paul. If you can't get the right colour 5-way connector for the switch that you have, you can always pare off the keyway moulding on the bottom of the connector - it will then fit any switch. You can also do this to the keyway moulding on the switches so that they fit into any of the dash apertures. Paul. If you can't get the right colour 5-way connector for the switch that you have, you can always pare off the keyway moulding on the bottom of the connector - it will then fit any switch. You can also do this to the keyway moulding on the switches so that they fit into any of the dash apertures. Paul. re which type Rover: It was a mid-late 90's rounded shape one. I can check the VIN series when I'm home this evening. When I installed my EPC I selected the option for a Rover Cars and Land Rover dealership, it then installs for all the Land Rover models and Rover/MG Cars range from about 1990 onwards. Paul. Anyway, back to Rover 200's. According to the EPC the Rover 200's with the Hazard Warning Switch that's almost the same as the Defender 2002 switch and uses the same connector are - Rover 200 Coupe/Cabriolet & 400 Tourer (March 1996 on) Rover 200 Series (Nov 1995 on), Rover 25 & MG 25 Series (Nov 1999 on) I've had EPC for a couple of years now and last night I discovered something else that I didn't know about it - On the Search tab, in the "Search In" window - Click on the vehicle type to highlight it's name in blue, e.g. "Defender" Right-Click on the highlighted name and a menu appears, with the options - Visual Cue A Pages Select "Visual Cue" and a little box opens with the information - OCT 91 - INTRO OF 200TDI DIESEL ENGINE MAR 94 - INTRO OF 300TDI DIESEL ENGINE DEC 97 - INTRO OF PLASTIC BUMPER END CAPS Select "A Pages" and a new window opens with information on - VIN codes Engine No's Transmission No's Axle No's Paint Codes Seat Belt fitting instructions Axle Swivel and Hub Seals - New Part Information But you lot probably already knew that! Paul. The 2-way accessory socket (C1692) consists of - permanent live (Purple wire) + earth (Black wire). It's behind the RH rear lamp cover (inside the vehicle) and is intended to power accessories or an accessory socket in the rear of the vehicle. The 1-way accessory socket (C0350) which is permanently live (Purple wire) and 1-way accessory socket (C0942) which is fed from the reverse lamp switch (C0167) (Green/Brown wire) are both under the RH rear wheelarch, behind the mud cover over the RH rear lamp connectors. They are adjacent to the trailer pickup connector and are for auxiliary towing connections. Paul. Part no. - YXJ000020LNF This is the dummy switch to blank unused heated seat switch holes, it's actually an empty switch body with a blank cap. The functional heated seat switch is part no. - YUG102430LNF I've bought both the functional switches and blanks and, as I don't have heated seats or the desire for them, I'm using the heated seat switches and changing the caps for the blank ones, so that I can use the switches for other accessories. You can also do this with all the other 2002 switches. Paul.

juddereing is common with a contaminated plate slipping can easily be identified drive along in 3rd slow down then accelerate hard if the revs rise and you don't gather pace to keep up with the revs it is slipping.

On Sunday the 4th of September 2005 is the second Dutch Land Rover Sort-out (DLRS). This event is a market for new and second-hand Land Rover parts and accessories. There are about 25 companies and a lot of private sellers. This year we expect about 600 cars and 2000 visitors from the Benelux. There are several road books to explore the historic Dutch environment. The organization also tries to organize an off-road route again. There is a possibility to arrive on Saturday afternoon and camp on the showground. Facilities are available. The DLRS is at Naarden (10 miles east of Amsterdam). Do we meet you the 4th of September at the second Dutch Land Rover Sort-out in Holland? Regards, The DLRS team www.dlrs.nl dlrs@12move.nl +31 6 22 39 88 94 (English spoken)

Halfords matt black enamel it has lasted a long time on mine

the one you supplied is wrong please email me then I'll reply

Me nope Exmoor beast nope scrumps nope smudge nope rogue trooper nope Dr Goon nope Les henson nope Bos nope Bushman nope Andy Ellis nope Bomag nope Tonk nope just a few not there from memory

french chalk is the stuff in puncture repair kits IIRC

resite of valve permission has been given for link

yes so I believe. going soft in his old age

those who haven't recv'd forms let me know asap. robhybrid your email keeps bouncing

Mark pop round if you feel like it, I'm off next week.

shame Tim maybe next year?

anything else wanted just say

shows the joint that requires sealing, welding or Silicon required otherwise your snorkel is worthless.

If you lift the suspension of your 90-300TDI or TD5 and fit castor correction arms to the 300TDI you may well adopt a vibration on overrun around 60MPH+ the pics below show the prop angles with a wide yoke prop fitted note the acute rear UJ angle and the front UJ running flat. I fitted a Disco2 Double carden prop this sorted the problem, you'll need the Disco 2 transfer box flange to fit the prop BTW See also:http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=14261&hl=

Crawler install

D44/Scorpion ones are made by WV in bradford. here are even better ones made by a bloke on LRO can't remember his name at the moment

rear arms from Devon4x4 I increased the b/stops by adding box section to the axle

On September 11th 2005, the Scottish Off Road Club (SORC), will be running an open forest drive event in the Scottish borders. SORC has been working alongside landowners and forestry companies to put together what will be a truly unique day. The event is open to everyone with a 4x4, but the numbers will be strictly limited to 80, therefore pre-entry is essential. SORC have carefully laid out three types of route through the forest, green for the family 4x4 which never normally sees anything more challenging than the school run, red for the driver with some off road experience, who doesn’t mind maybe picking up a scratch or two and has a vehicle equipped with chunky tyres, the black runs are reserved for experienced drivers who have vehicles equipped with off road tyres and winch, a roll cage is recommended but not essential, however a sense of humour is vital! SORC promises something for everyone, set against the backdrop of some of Scotlands finest forest scenery, which is never normally accessible by vehicle. Drivers on the green and red runs are more than welcome to spectate as the vehicles on the black routes get themselves in and out of terrain most people would think twice about walking over, far less driving! The event is non competitive, and is designed to be fun and involving. As at any event, safety is paramount. The event has been planned and organised with the full cooperation of the landowners, forestry companies and the Motor Sports Association. The routes are set out as a one way system to keep traffic moving smoothly through the forest. SORC has many trained and experienced motor sport marshals, recovery crews and first aiders in it’s membership, and SORC members will be stationed at strategic points along the routes. The event organisers and marshals will be in constant radio contact with each other throughout the day. SORC have arranged catering for the start area, however entrants will need to pack whatever they need to sustain themselves through the drive. There will be plenty of opportunities for picnicking in the woods. Watch out for bears! For anyone who has never experienced the thrill of being in a 4x4 off road, SORC will be running a short section where the public can be driven round by an experienced off road driver. All they ask is for a small donation. All profits from the event will be going to charity. Further Information & Registration Contact: Hugh Roberts: email: lindsay@theworkhouse.net Press Contact: Pete Naples: (SORC Newsletter Editor) Email: tracksion@dsl.pipex.com

I don't think so. we never did this time

sorry to be Mr Grumpy. but with insurance being what it is these days

Kids haven't been readily invited to be honest. not for any reason really, other than it is party for grown ups as the facilites won't be family orientated. the winch challenge site isn't really up for lots of spectators as the owner is providing the Insurance etc for the vehicles/drivers etc.