Tractorman

So.. disco 1 300tdi manual, owned for years no problems. couple of months ago, it died, no warning. Restarted immediately no issue. bit strange but nothing obvious. then, 1 week later, same trip, same again. flicked the starter and it refired before we stopped. 6 days later..... and again.... Always within 10 minutes of starting, so cold. 1/2 tank of fuel usually kept so not low fuel issues. filters checked, replaced, nothing found. another week later, different trip but still within 10 mins, died and was reluctant to restart, but it did after a couple of mins. and again today, as above but this time more reluctant to restart, turns over doesnt fire. waited a minute or so and restarts no prob. stop solenoid seems ok, believe spider bypass fitted years ago. lift pump issue? if so why so intermittant? ideas anyone... please!

I understand that. However if you by a bearmach swivel seal "kit" there is only 1 option for a '96 300tdi. It doesnt specify bearing brand or state origin . I originally bought the bearmach kit after reading on here how much superior it was compared to the little blue boxes. Brand supplied is NWB which is uk based importer, know nothing about them. Don't know whether to bin them or use them...

Just bought another swivel kit from Bearmach, only to find the bearings proudly showing "Made in China"... (and the swivel pin from India) I know there are "good" and "Bad" chinese stuff, but I I've bought Bearmach bearings in the past and usually expect quality brands. Is this a move downmarket or is it a quality part? Any thoughts?

Normally I wouldnt go with Britpart for serious stuff, but they claim to be the current OEM supplier to LR since the original chrome hub stopped production. I have seen pictures of breakages of both Bearmach and Britpart hubs and I know many think they are weaker than the originals.... However as this is the only choice there is no other option. There is a considerable price difference between the Britpart and Bearmach housing for what may actually be the identical part. I want to use the best but not feel ripped off. Currently leaning to Britpart swivel housing with a Bearmach seal kit...

Getting confused about the choice of swivel housings available, Paddocks list 2 - the teflon "oem" part which is apparently a britpart item? and a different one in their "kit", which isn't teflon coated, then there are 2 different ones available from Bearmach, but at much higher prices. are the Bearmach swivels really better?

It does sound exactly like something stuck in the wheel, but it stops if you lift off the power. No obvious play in the wheel bearings. Will try the CV and see if it stops.

My 300tdi has developed a knock on the front axle, o/s I think. It is fairly constant, 1 knock for a wheel revolution, worse straight ahead under load and much less without power. Doesn't change with cornering. I'm assuming its the cv joint but could it be anything else?

collapsing hoses or oil build up in the intercooler , drains to the bottom and restricts airflow. Run it with the bonnet up and watch the intercooler hoses if they start to collapse

put one of these on mine, never looked back, Will easily start without heater plugs even after standing a couple of months. seems to turn it over forever if it has to. https://www.tayna.co.uk/Enduroline-CXV-X-1000-Battery-P9008.html

The brake vacuum pump gives a good knock when its on its way out, would get faster with engine speed

Fitting a new rigid downpipe to a straight through system and having a couple of issues... back box and straight through pipe fitted and sitting well, new downpipe a PITA.. holes on the mounting flange were too small and needed redrilling, now fitted but sits about 2 inches to the left of the centre pipe. is this a bad downpipe or does the centre section flex that much to join up? if so would seem to put a lot of stress on the manifold? I think the flange is welded on wrong, but would like to know if anyone else has had problems??

it was both top hoses, but I can't get it to do it again, even if its hot or under load. That's what I can't understand.

strange fault on my 300tdi . Short run around town, parked up, restarted and would only tickover. no power, wouldnt rev at all. Left it running and popped the bonnet, only to see the rubber hoses on the intercooler collapsed. turned off and restarted - everything ok again, hoses looked fine. So, something was restricting the airflow, but cleared. Hasn't come back since anyone had anything similar? airfilter clean, no obvious restriction there. Anything I should be looking for?

I thought about bending the rods but then I might make it worse..! I wondered about trying to add another spring to pull down on the latch arms but would really like to work out why its not right. Its only out by a few mm but seems that's all it takes

I spent a silly amount of time replacing the broken lock spring in my disco 300tdi, got it all back together, eventually in the right order... and it still doesn't work. Everything works fine but you still need to put turn the key/lift the button to open the door, just like when the spring has broken. I stripped off the door card again but can't see any faults, just that the mech doesn't pull down far enough. Can't get an mot until the door lock works as it should... anyone any ideas??

is it usual to replace the bottom pulley? its not included in a lot of kits. I know the tensioners are changed as they contain bearings but why the bottom pulley? Does it wear quicker than the others?

Hi All, need to do a cambelt on my 300tdi, its long overdue... whats the feeling on cambelt kits - my local dealer is doing full kits, Dayco belt but its Britpart pulleys and not cheap, The Glencoyne kit looks good but he claims "only good quality components" but doesn't say what, or whos they are. - any preferred kits? any to avoid?

Thanks for all the advice ! its off .. finally. Socket + 6" + 12 " extension finally did it, after looking at pictures of the bellhousing and an idea of where to aim for. Will be doing clutch and modified fork and thrust bearing while its off. You know what I'm going to ask next... how to put it back..! but seriously.. I've read a lot of replies where people don't replace the top (or even top 3 ) nuts. I wouldnt leave 3 off, but is it a big problem to leave the top nut off? Is it over engineered or there for a purpose? Oh, and whats the general feeling - locktite, grease or just replace dry? I went for a set of (overly expensive) new L/R nuts to replace, but the new ones don't have the flange like the old ones did. Thanks again.

Hi all, new here.. I have a '96 Disco 300tdi, manual. Owned for the last 7 years, used for towing vintage tractors, family camping and general workhorse. Anyways, usual problem of knackered clutch fork. Simple job. so I thought... Read every forum, manual, bulletin etc.. every "how to" I could find. went for the "move gearbox back 7 inches" method as in the forum archives here. So.. everything removed, jacked up, outside, limited space, freezing cold... gearbox resting on crossmember... 2 days later and I still cant get that top nut off...I know its at 12 o'clock position, cant even see it with torches and mirrors. cant get my hand anywhere near to even feel for it.. Have 4'+ of extensions, wobblies etc but cant get near it as whichever way I try something is in the way. What am i doing wrong?? Getting tired of finding forums that just say "its hard but do-able..." without advice... PLEASE HELP!!!!!