Big_John

Thanks Simon. Looks like you've been busy! I was thinking of fitting a rev counter as well, so thanks for the info.

Thanks Woody, I'm definitely going to need my own nanocom if I'm going to tackle this one, I can borrow one off a mate, but I suspect I'm going to be going through a few issues to get it working properly, so I'll get my own. That linked document is great, thanks. John

Morning All, Happy New Year everyone! It's been a while since I posted here, but I am a few weeks in to a '03 TD5 double-cab, so a whole host of new issues to sort out! (an 'upgrade' from the 300Tdi 90). Currently on my mind is the alarm. As far as I can tell, this doesn't work at all. The light flashes about once a second all the time I'm driving, but doesn't come on at all when I lock with the central locking (key doesn't work in the door - another issue!). Also, possibly related, the interior light doesn't come on when the doors open - it's fine on the switch on the light, but not the doors. I've assumed that both of these have been switched off in the ECU for some reason. I'm also assuming that the alarm was switched off because there was some issue with it, but maybe a previous owner had a dog and was getting false triggers? (here's hoping!). I don't get any warning sound if I try to lock with the door open. So, a few questions if anyone can shed some light for me... Can the lights and alarm be switched on/off in the ecu through Nanocom? Does this mean that any toe-rag with a nanocom can break in and simply switch off the alarm and immobiliser? Assuming there was some issue with either the alarm or immobiliser, how hard is it to diagnose and fix such issues - does nanocom tell me why the alarm was triggered so that I can fault-find it? Does anyone know of a group-buy for nanocom atm?! Is there a handy guide to the alarm/immobiliser somewhere? Many thanks everyone, John

Phew, glad that's confirmed, could have been very embarrassing ! On the top of the tank it says something like 'Fill to the mark indicated', but the line around the tank looks like a seam from the tank being made in two parts, rather than a fill mark - so I'd say it's not that clear which 'mark' they are referring to. There is also a post in the tank which appears to be at about the same level, so could be that as well!

That's a very good point Bowie...I did check this but didn't come up with a definitive answer - I'm topping up to the seam line about half way up the tank.

Thanks all...latest update...I topped up again and checked everywhere, no sign of a leak on the P gasket, hoses or anywhere else. Was towing again at the weekend, 100 miles, seemed to be fine, bit of a struggle on the hills (reasonably heavy box trailer), but cruising at 60 on the motorway without issues. On checking the coolant after, it had dropped about 1cm in the tank. Topped it up again before the drive back (not towing this time), again driving fine, cruising at 70 with no problem, after about 45mins I pulled in to the services, left the engine running and had a good look around, still no signs of leaking anywhere. So I think it must be the head/gasket, hot or cold, there is no sign of an external leak. It's booked in on thursday to have the head off and inspected, so I'll let you know what happens.

Thanks gents, will throw some more water in it this evening and take a good look.

I definitely notice the heater throwing out more heat when it's topped up - haven't checked the top hose - will give it a try if it ever stops raining!

Thanks Snagger, To clarify, the water drops quickly to a pretty consistent level (just under 2L down) and stops there, it seems to be happy at this level for months and never gets over half-hot. I'm starting to wonder if the two are unrelated - looking on various forums there are lots of reports of white smoke in wet conditions for all makes of vehicle, and these are generally put down to normal condensation in the exhaust. I'll top up the water again, let it idle for a while and take a really good look for leaks. Thanks for confirmation on the cap mayo, I was hoping someone would say it's not that unusual!

Thanks mads, I'll take a look at the weekend.

Hi All, I'm trying to work out what's up with my 300tdi defender...inconsistent symptoms : Has always lost water with no obvious signs of where from (I've owned it for 10yrs and have always had to top it up) It loses just under 2L of water in around 150miles or less, then stops losing it and will run at that level for months without issue, until I think about it and top it up again. Occasionally billows loads of white, steamy smoke on startup (not necessarily when cold) for 30s to a minute, then clears. This only seems to happen when it's wet weather - either raining hard or foggy! Never gets over 1/2 hot on the temp gauge, even when I was towing a heavy trailer last week. Doesn't seem to be losing power, although as I said, it's always lost water since I bought it, so maybe it's always been down on power! No troubles starting. When I checked this morning there was some slight mayonnaise on the filler cap, which is the first time I've seen it, but nothing on the dip stick. I have topped the water up twice in the last week due to the towing, so it's got through a lot more water in a short space of time than it usually does. No signs of oil in the water. Any thoughts? Are the smoke and water loss related? What else can I check to narrow it down a bit more? Thanks, John

Hi all, Apologies for bringing up a slightly old thread, but wanted to add my 2p here... I've been with NFU for about 6yrs now, since I bought the 90 (2" raised, hardtop converted to station wagon + a couple of other minor mods). Originally they were very competative but the last 3 years it's gone up by about £100 each year, I phoned them last year and managed to get £50 knocked off, but another £100 hike this year made it £700 with 8yrs no claims! I phoned Adrian Flux and after taking of the breakdown cover has come in at £300 with all the mods declared so I'm very happy with that. For another £15 I could have sent them photos and got an agreed price, decided not to bother for now. I tried Peter Best as well, but their 'classic' policy doesn't allow commuting and their standard policy doesn't allow mods... John

It is, yes, although a wider, flatter profile than the copper ones curiously. A nice idea, but that's £51 + postage and new washers are 50p inc. postage! Thanks both, I've ordered 5 Ali washers off fleebay

Hi all, There are both copper and aluminium washers around, which one should I be using? It's got an ali one at the moment, but I've no idea if it's the correct one...or why they make both. Can anyone shed any light? Whilst we're at it, why do some people recommend changing the sump plug as well - surely they don't get an wear - they just sit there...plugging... Thanks, John

Evening all, I've been having issues with my off-side rear indicator for a while - intermittent working, changed the bulb - not that, eventually through lots of waggling and poking narrowed it down to the connector on the back. I looked through here and there were a few references to these connectors but they all gave the same out of date link. Anyhoot, I discovered what they are and thought others might like to know! So, the indicator connector is an 'econoseal waterproof 2-way female' part no. 0-012-52 (sometimes quoted as 01252) and I believe the stop/tail light is the same but 3 way, part no. 0-012-53. I changed the indicator connector tonight and it appears to be good, the connector is certainly exactly the same as the one that came off (300Tdi). I struggled for a while to get the old crimps out but couldn't (I'm sure a hammer would have worked!), but the wires were just long enough for me to cut the old one off flush and crimp the new one on. Got mine from here: http://www.thetoolbo...ctor-2460-p.asp all of £2.90 odd with free cheap-skate postage and they take paypal as well, so didn't even need to register. Hope that helps someone, John