bazz

hmm, i suddenly realize that it is quite unlikely that the locker would do anything to the gearing ratio. So it probably won't fit

Hi, I have a series 3 109 with a 4.7 salisbury rear axle. I ordered an ARB diff locker for it but Paddock send me the RD20 instead of the RD32 I also have a defender 2.5 NA diesel engine in it but still the series gear and transfer box with overdrive I have 2 questions: Would the RD20 (defender salisbury axle 3.51 (or something like it) gearing ratio) fit my series salisbury ? Would i want the RD20 to fit my series salisbury ? if both these questions are a no they i should try to see whether Paddock can exchange them. greetings Bas

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thanks Bazz, that’s the parts catalogue I'm looking for unfortunately the links are broken, so can download them Thanks Dano, email me at s.koekkoek@erasmusmc.nl, i'm sure we can arrange something.

Hi, every little piece in the gearbox can be ordered from Graddock, www.johngraddockltd.co.uk, just type in the part nrs. These you can find by looking here and download the part list for your model. http://www.tukojack.com/Download.htm i just finished mine without any prior experience, i had about the same problems. all worked great and went pretty smoothly, just get a lot of closable small boxes to put all bits and pieces in, follow the manuals work carefully and it should be no real problem. i replaced all bearings (except one that was too hard to get out), all gaskets, synchrosprings, oil seals etc. greetings Bas

Ah Thanks, so i'll just use the new ones with the old spring holders. I still have to tap out the valve guides and refit new ones. Hope that will go smoothly. Bas

Hi, I ordered replacement valve springs (ERR4640) for my cilinder head. When i took the assembly apart i noticed to my surprise that 2 springs are used for each valve. I only got replacements that look like the outer springs it seems (i got original landrover springs). Does anybody know whether these are some new type that replace both the old inner and outer ones or only the outer ones. if so, does anybody know the partnr of the inner springs. They seem to have the same nr in the parts catalogue thanks Bas

hi, england might be possible, I live in Belgium. Maybe we can figure something out. Let me know when you know more. why don't you mail me at s.koekkoek@erasmusmc.nl, that way i won't miss your reply greetings Bas

I just ordered a replacement part and got a britpart one. This is deff. not the same size (much thicker, more roundish) although the hole seems to be in the correct position. Also there is loose metal inside that rattles quite annoyingly. Should i make a hole and remove that? or will the normal background noise be so much i won't be hearing it anyway. Bas

Hi, thats actually a good idea, although i'm at this moment not so good a welder that i can make nice vertical welds. Up till now i just turned my chassis in whichever way nessecary to get horizontal surfaces. This will be slightly more difficult with the body in place. I only have an arc welder, a decent mig weler is too expensive for me at this moment. What do you all use for welding chassis?

hi, where do you live? do you have the part numbers of the stuff you need. I can have a look. i have mine in pieces at this moment and will not put it back together the next two months or so. depending on your location i am willing to lend you the stuff so you can have copies made or something. Bas

so fixing the riggers in the exact opposite position by measuring on the chassis would be a safer bet than aligning them with the use of the bulkhead. I frequently read stories about how bulkheads didn't fit anymore after replacing outriggers so i was thinking to be smart and prevent that by doing it this way. Only now i might end up with a fitting bulkhead, but only that. Probably the best way would be to do both, measure up but leave it attached to the bulkhead. I also better find a second person to help me do this because it is a pain to do it on your own. Bas

Hi I cut of my old rusted outrigger from my chassis (lh side). The chassis is completely stripped down. Now i temporarilly fitted my new bulkhead in an attempt to line out my new outrigger and tack weld it into place. There seems to be much more room to play with as i anticipated. Even with all the bolts (loosely fitted) and struts in place (the ones from the chassis to the footwells) you can still move the whole bulkhead considerably (cm's). What would be the best trick to figure out what the correct position of the bulkhead is (and therefore the correct position of my outrigger) so i won't get in too much trouble refitting the remainder of my bodywork (safari) later on. thanks in advance Bas

Yep, that would seem logical but i cannot find anything in the underside On the top there is a number. ETC5043/3

Hi, I'm confused about the different piston types. I'm revising my 2.5 12j N/A diesel engine and probably need new piston rings since i read everywere that they should be changed as a matter of course. I checked taper of cilinder bores etc and everything is well within limits, just needs to be honed. How do i find out if i have GKN or Hepworth pistons since rings are apparently different for these types. Bas

So, what is the best part supplier in the UK you think (it has to do online ordering and shipping to belgium) I use Graddock or Paddocks but you can't now beforehand whether parts are going to be original or britpart or whatever. greetings BAs

Okay thanks, It's just that i'm ordering new parts this evening. So, i leave the drive shaft out. Bas

Hi, i just removed my oil pump form a J12 2.5 diesel engine. When i took out the drive shaft i noticed that one tooth of the splined end was half the height of the other teeth. It didn't really look broken, it had a nice straght finish. Is this normal ? i can't find it in the manual. thanks Bas

Hi, i am in the process of overhauling a 12J, just went over and had a look but on that picture it sure doesn't look like a 12J the number seems to be on the other side and the fuel pipe mounting seems to be angled differently with respect to the glow plugs. Why don't you send a picture of the whole engine. Im sure we can figure it out then. greetings Bas

How different is the J12 2.5 diesel mounting from that of a 2.25 petrol engine ? Do the 2.25 petrol & diesel have different mountings? I noticed the extra riggers for the gas tanks under the seats but i guess they can stay where they are right? The brackets for the rear gas tank i can get from my old chassis. I was thinking about swapping a larger piece because i thought that welding just around the chassis nr would look suspicious during the dutch MOT & registration checks. Bas

Hi, some facts: yesterday i bought a rocksolid series military 109 chassis for 150 euro's. I also got a as new series bulkhead and radiator panel. The current chassis from my 109 restoration project is rotten, starting just behind the last outriggers all the way towards the rear, rear spring hangers. The front part however is still very good. The military chassis has no registration papers. the current chassis is modified to fit my j12, 2.5 Diesel. questions: are there many differences besides the bumperettes and the gearbox crossmember? e.g. will a stawag body fit on both without too much problems? i can't really measure yet, since i still have to fetch the chassis. I was thinking to take the military chassis and replace the right front leg (coming from my current) starting just behind the bulkhead outrigger all the way to the front bumper. This way i will still have my chassis number, and my modified engine mounts put into the new chassis. Would this be a smart option or would this be stupid? Bas

Hi, My 109 restoration project is going smoothly, my gearbox assembly is as new again partly thanks to the advice i got on this forum. Yesterday i had a look at my salisbury axle. What would be the best way for me to determine if it is still oke, needs a revision or even replacing? The axle is already unmounted from the chassis, and i also didn't really drive the car besides driving it from the trailer into my workshop. greetings, Bas

Yes, i noticed that. loosening or fastening hasn't really been a problem. I only had to resolve to the grinding disc with the nuts and bolts that held the small panel behind the seatbase. It is with cleaning threads that it is really confusing to me which thread system i need. I ordered a BSW, BSF set and a UNF (taper and bottom, dies) set to start. Where needed (after i got some experience with these sizes) i'll get industrial quality stuff of the sizes i really need. thanks everybody!! strange though that the green book only talks about metric and unf bolts. Did they just build these things with whatever they had availlable at the production line? surely they were not planned to be build with all these sizes mixed together, what would be the benefit of that except keeping people busy.

Interesting question, ill keep an eye on the responses as well. Unfortunately i don't know the answer since i didn't check before i took my bulkhead off. I am about (next weeks somewhere) to weld a new bulkhead outrigger onto my chassis. Just to avoid alignment problems i was thinking about cutting the new one in half and weld it onto the still good base of the old one. In addition i'll make a temp jig that fits the two bulkhead fixation holes before i cut up the old rigger, and use that jig for repositioning the new one. Bas

Okay, so to clean (or rethread) threads on the technical part (engine, gearbox, etc) it is mainly BS but some SAE, bodywork is UNC/UNF. Basicly i need a UNC/UNF and a BSW/BSF set of dies and taps. Unbolting everything went fine with a mostly metric toolset. I'll start looking for imperial sizes for those as well. thanks again. Bas

Since i am living in a metric system part of the world i'm getting enormously confused with all these thread sizes. I want to buy a large set of english thread dies and taps but have to choose whether i buy a large one containing everything i need in UNC/UNF or one in BSW/BSF. I have a series 3 109 safari landrover build in 1977. Which should be the best choice for me (providing nothing got mixed up earlier) thanks Bas