landy_andy

Yup, already had the rims and can’t afford to replace them and loose $3500 as realistically no one wants 15” rims these days... most common size here for trail trucks is 17” now. i moved the rear arms out a bit (1/2”) but I want this a straight swap in and I know it works as is. Now back to finishing off the truck so I can get it decal’d.... winter is coming !

15” Stazworks double beadlock, with 2.5” of back spacing.... should have been more but they messed up the order. Didn’t know until they arrived & too late then to fix them then..... Did get the rear axle just about finished, just needs a few threaded blocks to fix the brake lines too welding on the back side.

Managed to move the axle ends out a small amount, with the brackets hard against the inner ‘C’ the RAA dropped to 6.18 degrees. Best we can get I think for now.

I should be able to move the axle end of the lowers out by 1” on both sides (or at least right up against the inner C’s) due to the axles being wider, will check tonight. At worst, these numbers are significantly better than radius arms 😁 Have already ordered a couple of joints to mock up the arms to check for binding at full stuff & flex 😉

Sketched up this lower link bracket, sandwiches around the existing frame mount. Need to get a 1” bolt & nut to work spacing out for the back brace. Needs a bit more work but I think I’ll be beefy enough in 3/8” plate.... 😉

So, if I use my existing 3 link x-member as a datum, make the upper link off he front of it, make some new lower mounts that move the frame end back & downwards, then accept an axle separation of 6” we get..... This is using the stock panhard frame & axle locations so, those numbers will probably change a bit once I get the axle under the truck and adjust for the revised steering linkages. Doing this gives me just enough up travel for the upper link to not crunch the oil filter. If I made that remote then I’d be able to squeeze a bit more axle separation but as the

Been looking at it this morning, without remaking the exhaust Y pipe, and relocating the oil filter I’m really stuck with room for the upper link at full stuff for a reasonable axle link separation and am also limited by my saddle gas tanks & skid plates. If I use the existing front mount as a hard point and build a bracket that sits below & behind it I gain 5” of link length and reduce the effective angle of a radius arm to about 10 degrees or less over mounting in front with the bracket I posted earlier. So, from this... to this... Would make it much bet

Yup, tried that and to get anywhere sensible the link needs to be inside the gearbox. No room on the frame side due to the exhaust and even then at full stuff the link is hard up against the oil filter with a 4” axle top link to get a reasonable axle end separation approaching 25% of tire height.

Yes, I know.... more interested in getting the AD down at present if I can, otherwise it’ll be some radius arms. Will stick the numbers into the 3 link sheet with the current track bar & post up.

Been working on what sort of suspension links to use, currently have my 3 Link setup but as the axle is a blank canvas and I can weld on whatever I want... ran the numbers for radius arms & a 3 link setup using the existing frame side & cross member mounts.... interestingly the radius arms have better AD number, not as low as I’d like but not 190% either. Radius arms 3 links

Off Chevy 1 ton trucks, probably the most common upgrade in NA apart from using heims. Some vehicle inspectors can get a bit iffy with heims as we’re not really allowed to use them in BC.

Thinking steering will be this using Moog & Barnes 4x4 parts.... TRE part numbers, note the longer tie bar end needs the hole reaming to accept the drag link end.

Brackets are only tacked on, will turn the power down when I burn them in. As a note the axle tubes are 3.5” OD x 3/8” wall DOM, so more resilient to heat effect when welding brackets on it but still need to be cognizant of it. Worked on the front axle yesterday, used then jig for initial alignment then dropped it on stands to allow it to be checked more easily as I tacked it up. Worked a lot better and only needed a little pull on the short side to adjust. Finally, added the knuckles & to start working out for the steering links etc.

Pinion angle worked out for a straight swap into the truck, spring pads & caliper brackets tacked on. Just need lower link brackets to finish up the welding.

One is a happy chappy..... got both sides within 0.25 degrees of true, so that’ll be less than 3/16”. Without some pucks & an alignment I bar can’t really get any closer. Next to set the pinion angle, add the spring & other brackets whilst I ponder a truss for it.