landy_andy

Thanks.... pity it’s all hidden behind my dash 🙄

Here are a few pictures of how I put my new loom together for my D100 project, twist ties from the supermarket work great for making up the looms. As I couldn’t get GXL & TXL in colour traced short lengths, I used solid colours with a heat shrink band on each end to follow the original loom specs.

Dxf’s emailed out to the water jet company, sit back & wait now for an email to go fetch them.....

After some more deliberation with a few cold ones.... quite a few 😜 Figured if I extend the horizontal plate out I can tie it into the lower face of the frame rail where the radius arm mount is welded on and use a captive bolt plate inside the frame via a drain hole. This should hopefully prevent any rotational or shear loads affecting the mount.

Got the new lower link frame mounts drawn up. Couldn’t find an easy way to tie into any other existing holes so will give it a go as is. These will give us this in the link calculator. The anti-dive is an improvement over the existing setup of 190%. As always when your having to work around fixed points and trying not to rebuild the truck again, packaging becomes a compromise of ideal numbers vs practical solutions. Once I get them fabricated up I’m planning on borrowing the truck lug nut torque wrench from work... click those 1” bolts of at 500lb ft 😀

Ok, I see what you mean.... with the changed the design from the first with a bent plate to the shaped side plates that wrap down & around the existing mount, this should make the assembly significantly stronger, once I can measure up the clearance I can tie the front & bottom plates together too. Also looks like the front plate will jam nicely against the frame to prevent the whole assembly trying to rotate around the 1” bolt.

With it sandwiching the radius arm mount, shearing off a 1” bolt will take a serious amount of force. I could see the mount failing first maybe.... need the 30mm wrench I ordered today to remove a radius arm & finish up my drawings.

I see that from your drawings, my issue is I have dual saddle tanks with skid plates on both sides of the truck and to access those holes will mean removing then & installing a complete new custom fuel cell in the rear where the jerry can holder is located. Would mean I loose overall fuel capacity & that’s not something I want. If you get stuck without fuel in the back country here, your either walking out or your calling a helicopter to come rescue you. Am thinking I might be able to tie into the lower holes of the 3 link cross member, if not will have to rely on torquing the 1”

I went back and checked my old 3 link calculator numbers, didn’t look right so I remeasured the truck and found an error... correcting the numbers, the anti-dive works out about 190%. The new frame mounts work out about 240%.... eek ! I guess it’s back to the drawing board. I can’t move the centre link up on the cross member as noted above, so, time to revisit the radius arm frame mounts. Using the calculator, if I drop them 4” and move them back 2” we get an AD of about 130%. Modifying the existing parts, this is what we have so far... Am thinking a rear support

I looked at doing that but it just won’t work without major modifications to the exhaust to give the up travel clearance at full bump. I welded out the new cross member yesterday, should have the frame end link parts this week. The calculator numbers with my SG style setup are not great but it does for what I need, the numbers for this setup are somewhat better and I’m mostly building it to get away from the LR axle weaknesses and lack of readily available spares here. Realistically it’ll see virtually no highway use and the trail heads are only 5 minutes from my house.

Decided I didn’t like the ‘drop down’ radius arm mounts, so went back to a simpler mount that bolts directly into the stock location. After tacking them up, I decided they looked too chunky... so, they went on a diet ! Third link mount was also adjusted to give a bit more up travel (drawn upside down). Just waiting now for the parts to be recut in 3/8” material. Then to assemble along with a new 3rd link x-member. Front spindles and hubs are now off to the machine shop for modifications to take 35 spline shafts & convert to LR lug pattern.

Did some more work on the front axle, drew up the spring mounts... made some mock-ups out of foam board. After a few tweaks had then water jet cut & bent. Front axle as far as I can get it now until it’s under the truck & I can figure out the new frame side track bar mount, track & steering linkages.

Check out this D2 front 3 link install from Nate @ Dirt Lifestyle, it’s surprisingly easy to do and you could always add tons as well 😉 Dirt Lifestyle 1 Ton D2 build

Hi, thanks for the reply. Ended up building it centred... will see how it goes. Realistically it’ll not see any highway miles so if it does vibrate, not big deal.

Yup, already had the rims and can’t afford to replace them and loose $3500 as realistically no one wants 15” rims these days... most common size here for trail trucks is 17” now. i moved the rear arms out a bit (1/2”) but I want this a straight swap in and I know it works as is. Now back to finishing off the truck so I can get it decal’d.... winter is coming !