lexi

I mean have a go, why not? You will get some good welds and some not so good. It is a fearsome crackling explosion with Mig ally, if you are used to steel. You need the amps up higher than normal. As well as all your other good advice, keep the cable straight from machine. I used 6mm wire in an 8mm tip. The wire end does blob easily otherwise and you are pulling it out of tip from time to time. This is an inevitable when using basic standard welding gear Beware if welding any existing bodywork, that Birmabright is even dodgier to fuse. I plug welded quite a bit like wings brackets etc. Mmm.........I would have been better with the normal rivet method and Sika I think. Portamig 210 amp........I hate to think what it would be like with one of the low powered budget welders. like my old SIP 130

<br />I think you mean roofing pikey's Nick. Roofing as an Industry works on tenders lol.

<br />It will compress slightly as well.

Ha Ha! The way a series should have been? When was British built small stuff ever like Jap factory built Bill? That is like saying the Morris Minor should have been as good as Honda Civic. You either want a Landy or you don't. If you want a Patrol or a Cruiser, buy one. Is the landy body attractive enough to swop out all the mechanicals and just keep the slappy door draughts and chassis? lol. With parts availabily and backup for Landrover here in UK, it makes sense to have one. No comeraderie with Patrols I am afraid and parts prices can be horrendous here. Patrol engine was a goodie if a bit of a slug for it's size as mine was N/A auto.Better axles too. The Disco was a more inspired drive actually.

<br />So why do we all have or talk about Series Land Rovers then?<br /><br />I left Series for 4 yrs and had a Patrol y60 4.2D. Yes ,very good. Also very rusty and not very engaging or fun to drive. I got fed up chasing the chassis with a mig and picked up the old Ser. 2 with galvy chassis. More fun.<br />Nissan wanted about 7k for a chassis!

<br />I am missing it too.

<br />If it was a Petrol then you have an ignition coil. If it was a diesel 2.25 the only coil on the bulkhead is the resistor for the glow plugs.

<br />The ser 11 items came from Spain.

The RR rebuild is interesting.<br />Such a lovely place to be in those vehicles and very useable with classic status as well.

That is what is brill about Land Rover........the rebuildability! Good result. If you ever get Mildly miffed off fixing them, there is no hope for the rest of us lol!

<br />I think they would TIG it Nick.

<br />That is a sore one! How many miles on that gasket then?<br /><br />Thing is that however they are rebuilt, it remains that many parts are quite old in them.<br />I think you have went well beyond the call of duty overall on this truck mate.<br />What can you do? you don't own it, it owns you lol!

I have a spare set I was going to refurb. My idea was to deepen the pitting and then hit it with Mig brazing. I think that may rub down easier than weld. Does anyone think a coat of Epoxy primer and then 2 pack paint would work along with fitting gaitors?

I love auto boxes and have had loads in cars. I would miss the old cog stirrer on a Series though. Mine is fun and limited use mind you. Good to see you still driving and thinking your special truck through it's evolutions though.

<br />Yeah but shockers don't do much on a standard leaf spring set up. A bit more on Paras.

<br />To add to all of that ,set the tracking as it may be way out.

My Sister has a house in Penne..........can't be far from you. I need to get over sometime.

Lets knock the Ackerman thing on the head. He couldn't half play a Les Paul but WTF did he know about Land Rovers?

It will be suck it and see I think for the way it will perform. Sounds feasible. Other than stiffer springs or an extra leaf. The engine bracket cannot be modified?

As replies above. Do and check all that, then if it no better, put an oil pressure gauge on it and see if OP really is dropping. Genuine low pressure at idle will do timing chain no good at all. Many causes for low oil pressure from sludge, worn oil pump, main bearings etc. Hopefully the sender unit is dodgy.

New genuine layshafts about 60 quid. Best build a 3 box if truck is not a historic rivet counter.

Nothing wrong with a 11a suffix e box if rebuilt or in good condition. Quite desirable in some quarters. Many boxes like that have 200tdi behind them for years with no trouble,driven sensibly. I have a 11a suffix D........goes great, only one rebuild.

Just a few pointers. Advantage of a series 3 box? 1/ If you give a lay person your truck to shift or borrow, they will be able to drive it with a 3 box. With the crashbox they most probably wont......or may wreck it. 2/ The ser 11 clutch is heavy. The 11a diaphragm item, a bit lighter. The ser 111 is lighter again. The 11a clutch system and box, I like. Large wet thrust bearing, never wears out. Building that 11a box would keep your truck original. That is good for resale if the rest is original. Bear in mind though some parts for that box are getting hard to get and expensive. No doubt though, for everyday use, a ser 3 box is easier to get on with.

<br />I use an eazibleed on my last two 109s. My front is always higher than back. Never had any problems bleeding with many rebuilds of brakes, front and rear.

I did that once with a Citroen hydraulic pump. The car would not raise or work, immobile on the drive. After the penny dropped I found the ball under the car with aid of magnet.......bloody Eureka!!