Alan Broadbent

Sorted out. A mistake by Land Rover in the original dispatch from them. They have written off the part and LR Series have sent me the correct one today. It is worth mentioning that Dominic at LR Series has been brilliant at getting this sorted promptly. Now, does anyone want a brand new RH 110 CSW capping, beautifully painted in Epsom Green??? Alan

Will email LR Series with this information this morning, thanks chaps, I knew you would collectively be able to help. Landy Novice - I used Wurth Super RTV Silicone to seal the capping(s) to the tub. Fortunately the rubber strips top and bottom were in good enough condition to reuse. For reference, once I had managed to remove the rear headlining, I was able to undo all the requisite nuts and bolts and then use a trolley jack to lift the roof without needing to undo the fastenings above the windscreen so no need to touch the front headlining at all. Alan

Thanks. LR Series seem to only communicate via email, so this information should help them sort out what has gone wrong. The part numbers on the order were correct, perhaps Land Rover packed them incorrectly! Shame as I have had to put the old one back with a selection of rivets as I need to use the 90 tomorrow... A

Hi there all you knowledgeable people. I have just replaced by LH body capping without any problem. When I offered up the RH one it is too short by some 4" and different where it joins the bulkhead. I have attached a picture to see if anyone can tell me (and LR Series from whence it came) what it is off? I am wondering about an 80 perhaps? Thanks Alan

I had this a while ago. Leaks and seepage can sometimes be hard to trace as the under bonnet heat evaporates coolant. After having replaced ancient radiator, hoses and water pump gasket, I eventually traced it to the pump spindle. The give away was the spray pattern under the bonnet. At least I now have a new cooling system. Alan

Great - thanks chaps. Automec here we come. Alan

Are these metric or imperial on a 1995 Defender?

All set up as per manual - bite point is still very low, but I can live with that if needs be, but still puzzled as to why it should have changed so much. Also found that the clutch pedal return spring has developed a habit of popping out on one side, which doesn't help the general feel!!! Alan

Thanks Western - will do tomorrow in daylight and report back. Alan

Cheers for the response. Replaced because it was leaking fluid past the seal and down the pedal - it was working fine however, which is why I am puzzled. Alan

Just replaced the clutch master on my 90 with a new item but having trouble getting it to feel anything like a nornal pedal. Have bled and bled it and am sure that there is no air in the system, but the bite point remains really low and the pedal wooden feels wooden. Looking at the assenbly, it appears that adjusting the pivot on the pushrod only alters the height in the cabin, and have adjusted this fully in both directions anyway in a futile attempt to sort the problem out. Any ideas? Alan

Thanks - time to get dirty! Alan

I have lots of grease/oil dripping down one of the swivels and onto the tyre. I assume that there is a faulty seal somewhere! Can anybody confirm and give advice? Thanks Alan

Thats very useful to know Les - thanks. I will probably use a mate in St Ives who I do quite a lot of classic car stuff with - he uses the Land Rover to tow so owes me anyway, but will bear you point in mind for future reference. What is your Cambridge connection? Alan

I will have to replace soon and am interested in the feedback on the MPS item - keep us all posted!

Options - Standard mode

Just got a quote for a NOR cross member for my 1995 90 - £322 inclusive of VAT and delivery Aalan

Suprised that the whole threaded block held in place is turning - I thought that it was prevented from doing so by the chassis member. Suggest that you try chocking it somehow. Replacement clips and threaded block from LR dealers are not too pricey. Alan

I can thoroughly recommend Autosparks - used them many times. Alan

Another vote for heatshrink the loom tape.

I could do a 90 for you. Alan

Hi there Done lots of rebuilds in the past, though not on Land Rovers (yet!) Dinitrol for rustproofing Kunifer for brake/fuel lines Alan

Good idea - will dust off the wife's digtal camera. Don't hold your breath however as I will have to work on this outside on the road and will need to pick my time carefully. Alan

Thanks for all this folks! Will let you know how I get on! Alan

Ok folks. I need to replace one of the body cappings on my 90 Hardtop. Is removing the hardtop side simply a case of unbolting and then replacing it with new sealing strips, or is it more complex than that? Is there anything odd I need to know about in the B post area? Thanks Alan