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bigblue110

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Everything posted by bigblue110

  1. not been on here in shall we say 'a while' hope all had a good crimbo/new year. basically i replaced my flywheel on an '02 110 td5 about 7months ago now but its developed the same issue of noisey chattering on acceleration, vibration, blah blah blah. and yes before anyone asks its chipped(twisted),bigger intercooler, straight through exhaust to back box, so she trundles along quite nicely, and i enjoy using all of its 'beens'. which i believe is what has destoyed the new flywheel. ...anyway, is there anyone out there running a solid flywheel on a td5??? is there any noticeable increase in vibration on ticover/normal running? who produces (if anyone) a solid flywheel? im trying to avoid at any cost having to put a duel mass back in it. i was offered by a man not to far away from me a tune a while back so thinking of geting this done and removing the twisted chipped. its fun and im in no way trying to discourage anyone from going down the twisted performance route, as it certainly keeps me entertained maybe something a little more sensible is on the cards. should there be a solid flywheel out there somewhere tho i might just have to keep the twisted chip for a while... cheers chaps
  2. hi there, not been in these parts for a while!when did the layout change?? need to quiz some brains. im in need of parts for an lt 85 off a mates csw. he lost drive on motorway but fifth was still selected.ha its a gud'n! anyway iv stripped it down and found that it had no circlip holding the fifth gearset and wear ring for the output seal in a fixed position this allowed the detent springs and there retainers to pop out of place. long and short of it is tis currently sat in my works workshop(naughty) and is going to stay there as the parts i require are now obsolete. iv got detent springs, ball bearings, but my main problems are the wear ring, the retaining plate and the pin which locates the retaining plate and the wear ring to the fifth gear set. if someone could be kind enough to post a the microcat exploded diagram of the gear box internals ill be able to high light what im yapping on about(i left my list of part numbers at work)!ha, sure iv bored a few of you!? my question is has anyone got these parts on a shelf some where in there garage for a 'rainy day'or know anyone with them iv asked all the local l/r stealers and they just give you the 'its obsolete, sorry, bye' speach, which is pretty unhelpful but i spose they are trying at least! my next call will be to ashcrofts see what they can come up with. to aid item description its a 22c lt 85 many thanks for any help andy
  3. hi there matey. i did this conversion on my old 110. i came to the same point and thought about it for ages tried all sorts of combinations of hubs, i decided to go with the flow and check them regularly. well that was 18 months ago, i checked the bearings once after 2 weeks, its gone through 2 mots in that time. its been totally abused offroad and given me no problems what so ever. go for it! i would say that after this conversion the brakes where and still are f8£*"ng amazing to the point of being almost too good on the rear certainly caught the lastest mot tester by surprise hahaha andy
  4. there is a solid flywheel? anyone know the part number for these? and the ball park figure on price? the cheepest i can get a duel mass is 250ish for a genuine item.
  5. ...anyone had to change one due to the hub failing?? mine has developed a quite horrific juddering when under power, backing off, and when reving at idle the only thing i can think it is would be the flywheel...certainly not a clutch related problem and before anyone goes down the prop uj route, as iv said it does it whilst the vehicle is idle. checked engine mountings etc all is fine is it comman that the duel mass fails? cheers andy
  6. they are in barnstable pretty sh** hot stuff used on a load of commercial load beds etc. not quite convinced on the finish used on a body panel but each to their own, will do the trick tho.
  7. luke does he have a web site?? and can i ask how much you spent on it?
  8. ok so posted similar question on a welding forum and it turns out they dont directly sell to public market and are produce by technical arc up north somewhere. Also sell under MTA sold here at a very good price. specs are somewhat desireable: MTA 211 Compact Mig Welder Mahcine Features 12 Voltage Steps, for fine adjustment of power Welds from as low as 20 AMPS Built in electronic burn back for all settings Can be used with 0.6, 0.8, or 1.0mm wire on 15kg or 5kg spools Quality wire drive system and motor The machine is guaranteed for 1 year, the transformer is guaranteed for 5 years This machine comes complete with a MB15 Heavy Duty German Euro Torch and a Regulator Specs Duty cycle, at 60% - 120 Amps bigger machine mta 231 is 60% cycle at 135a! not bad me thinks Approx Weight - 55kg Size - 530mm H plus handle x 360mm W plus rear wheels x 740mm L
  9. on the market for a new welder, have a few offers on the cards looking for something around the 220ish range. still open to suggestions tho- no price range as such just NOT wanting any sealey/clarke cheap end of the scale rubbish-you can keep those sugestions to yourself please. limit of £900 which should buy me a good piece of kit so if anyone knows of any good offer on at the mo the lets hava linky posted! main reason for topic is iv been trying to find 'portamig' as iv heard a few things about them thought id hava look, i just cant bluddy find them anywhere! so if any of you welding bums have purchased/looked at any recently a web address would be very nice, any address would be good i suppose, that is if they haven't been 'credit crunched' and gone under, which would explain me not being able to find them. cheers andy
  10. no probs mate good luck with the search!you definatly dont wana be buying a set that size for a 1 off job, might leave a small quarry pit sized hole in your wallet! can i just ask what reason your fitting a d2 box to a 90 for? andy
  11. do you have to old end?? if you do and its got a decent thread on it you could always cut a couple slots down the threads length, mixed with a bit of cutting compound/valve grinding paste n loadsa lube-job done, that is if your just looking to clean the existing thread up!?necessity is the mother of invention and all that!
  12. if you live around wiltshire iv got 1 proped up in my shed, decent second hand, 15 beer tokens andy
  13. just the ticket, top men!!! cheers should be able to get me a rough price from that lot! apprciate the comment forkrentfitter, but that was the idea of the topic so i could establish a price comparrison between materials needed to produce one and buying one. i think the big cost is going to be coming from getting the axle setup componantry-been looking and it looks like the indespension stuff is the way to go but is bloody pricey. steel isnt such a problem as i know a little place that does nice cash deals
  14. cheers for the info guys western-have just emailed indespension thanks steve_d-did it give any spacifics on the test at all or simply indicate that it would need 1?
  15. just wondering wether any of you crazys out there have designed/doing the plans/making now, your own car trailer?? early stages of thought on the subject at the mo but would love to get hold of a set of drawings so i can get steel priced up as a comparison to buying, and to see where to start with the basics of a design as i dont have access to one locally to do so. not worried about the time/ effort as id be doing it myself. im thinking about going for a flat bed twin axle 1500~2000kg so it can be used to carry general carp around aswel so to not make it single use. any thoughts/ideas/drawings greatfully received cheers andy
  16. i regularly do this of daf 4tonners at work. done carefully it does the job and is the accepted method of repair. as the seals are a 'little' bigger we cut as les did but with a diagonal aswel, to add greater surface area for sealing compound, and with the cut at the top of the ball there shouldnt be any problem anyway, not tried it on a rover axle yet but can see the advantage. unless we are doing swivel bearings/balls at the same time i dont bother fully stripping the axle down, remove mounting bolts for calliper and individually the mountings for brake line join on top swivel mount-(putting the bolts back in) bungy calliper to spring, undo swivel mountings for ball onto casing slide the hole lot out, including the half shaft. do yer stuff chuck it all back together again. doesnt take 5 minutes after the bazzilionth time of doing them. (thats five minutes in a non literal sense) i agree with dantd5, very practical sound advice/guidance on all of les's tech items andy
  17. hi there just bought myself a 02 110 double cab and on taking it home it seems to have a vibration when really on the beans and when sat at 60ish any thoughts??? it does have a hurricane chip(twisted performance), larger cooler and a veeeery nice sounding straight through exhaust to the back box. the vibration seems to heavy to be anything to do with uprated bhp, although iv not much experince with these engines at all so id like a grown up to maybe suggest points of interest.... please, with a cheery on top. i might see if i can collar GBMUD as hes round the corner from me see what he thinks and knows the td5. am i write in thinking/remembering that they have a dual mass flywheel, could this be the cause hard to desribe so i might well be p*ssing in the wind but thought id ask cheers guys andy
  18. i drove a 101 camper round billing offroad course last year, now that is an experience!lol i know it not the best of courses but there's a few very tight spots, when you consider your trying to drive a 'house' through a section of woodland awsome fun!!!
  19. i dont know what you guys are on about there's years left in those disks , i mean who needs brakes anyway?!?!?
  20. iv had my E reg 110 300tdi on a 1.410 tbox at 93ish (and it wasnt down a hill)not 100% on figure as speedo has the typical defender woble, could of gone a wee more, but not much and there were brown stains starting to appear in undergarments as shes a bit of a restle at the best of times. not reconmending anyone tries this, nor will i be doing it again. 10k after nearly complete engine rebuild so i new engine was a1(and still is). the result of a freaking transit van being stuck on my arse for x miles, so i gave it some beans and off she went. was running new 235/85 at the time
  21. old fashion and a little 'out there' i know but you could always try back bleeding them. oil can and a piece of piping to fit over (tightly) the oil can nozzle and the brake nipple, and as stated before start l/h/r and pump brake fluid back upto the m/c tighten nipple and repeat process for other wheel stations, never come across a rover where i have needed to use this method but may help if you are struggling. use it on the 4ton dafs -the clutch system is a b*&ch to bleed and its the only method that works without the relavent sized pressure bleeder. i would offer a hand but as your nearly the countries lenght away maybe there's someone on 'ere a little closer to you who would do the same if your struggling. if you hold applied pressure does the pedal creep down?? would suggest seal failure in the m/c or possibly 1 of the calipers but if not then try tightening/checking all your connections you maybe sucking in air when you lift off the pedal.
  22. as its a diesel tank and therefore your not looking at soooo much of a fire risk i would buz it up with the welder. but would only attempt it if your comfortable with what you are doing- make sure its full(less vapour to worry about but keep an extinguisher to hand) or ideally drop the tank away from the chassis drain it of fuel and fill it with water then weld it up-no vapour or flamables to worry about. you'll never seal a tank properly with any amount of fibre washers/screw/rivet combinations no matter how many you try. im a wee bit crazy when it comes to welding tho so you may wish to listen to someone with a little more grey matter between there lugholes haha andy
  23. so going on posts above and a pm(i maybe miss reading) you can put the later ecu from post02 models on an earlier truck?is this a direct replacement or are we looking at engine looms, injectors etc aswel? cheers for the info guys andy
  24. im in the market looking for a td5 110 csw and have heard that earlier td5 engines arent as tunable as later models, something about the ecu being different-word of mouth etc is this some sort of currupt info /chinese wispers so to speak or is this true??im not looking for a 1000bhp just a tweak here n there. does this effect in any way whether you can actually tune the earlier ones and what results you can get? where should i be looking for a decent tuner who will be able to sort me out when i find the desired truck-anyone know of anyone on 'ere that does a little forum discount, credit crunch and all!! cheers andy
  25. your 100% correct its only valid upto the point it leaves the test station. but at the same time the mot vosa standards for testing are so low anyway, and down to the testers opinion and interpretation of the vosa manual-which vosa themselves think are carp anyway. its considered the minimum condition of vehicle which should be allowed to be on the road. if you like to keep your vehicle running around on brake flexi for example which are 'x' years old and dont meet the criteria for failing the mot, but (heaven forbid) you go 20 miles down the road and it gives up and you loose your brake fluid and therefore brakes when you need to stop abit sharpish, whos fault is that??? the tester has done his job and followed the manual-he may well have given the owner an advisory on it-down to his own experience, but again its down to the owner to do something about that advisory. if you go down the road and the car fails on something which he's missed then you'd have somewhere to stand i believe. its down to the consumer in a way to keep a check on the testers and highlight anything like the dodgy mot'er to vosa so they are aware of it and can go check them out.
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