Keeper96

Hello again I’ve got a project 2a that the PO had fitted all new clutch hydraulics on to but hadn’t bled anything up. Tried bleeding today and can get fluid from the slave Nipple but no pedal feel and nothing happening at the rod coming from the slave. Ive heard reference to master cylinder adjustment being important but I’m not sure what or how to adjust, many suggestions welcome. jamie

Hi guys I’ve been trying to sort the wiring on a project 2a and the ignition switch has us stumped, it’s got a 2.25 Diesel engine it’s got a central point where the key can be removed which I’m assuming is “off” turn to the left is the spring position for the start solenoid to start the engine turn to the right of centre and the key stays where it is which I’d assume is for lights etc? However the multimeter says there is no power any where when the key is to the right or central. Can anyone shed any light on this? faulty switch? Thanks Jamie

I’ve been through Oban etc in the past when I used to live in Scotland but I still haven’t glen coe and the Cairngorms does have a special hold over me. The rough plan so far is from Newcastle to Loch Lomond, up to the ferry and over to mull, back to the mainland and a drive into Skye, stay my friend at reay Forrest, over to Loch Ness and then down through the Cairngorms via avienmore etc. Into Perth to see another friend and then back back home

That’s a good point that Dave, I might give more priority to mull and then just drive onto Skye just to say I have j

Thanks for the replies! I think the fairy pools are definitely a place to visit! I dont suppose you have any recommendations for good, fresh seafood places up there? J

Hi guys I’m planning a road trip up the west side of Scotland and back down through the Cairngorms, camping 2-3 nights and staying with a friend for a couple of nights, 1 near the Isle of Skye and the other in Perth. On the list so far is to go to Loch Lomond, the Isle of Skye and Loch Ness. Does anyone know of any places to go and see on the general sort of route that I’m taking? P.s. I’m taking my Clio, not a landrover so I won’t be doing any off roading haha thanks

Have you seen the thread in the members vehicle section?

Cheers! It’s taken a long time to get to this stage haha. Yeah, I’ve just found an old photo pre strip down that just about shows the vacuum advance so once the bulkhead is back I can start attatchibg things permantly

I’m guessing this is the brake vacuum? Just a photo I had on the phone also can you spot the distributor fitting from this side or is it the other side?

Hi lo fi, I’ll get some pictures at the weekend once I’m back home. Cheers

Hi guys Im starting to reinstall the engine in my series 3 and all of its associated pipework etc. There is a push fitting in the manifold with a pipe attached that I believe is for creating a vacuum and I think goes to the vacuum advance on the distributor? Could anyone confirm this? Also where does the vacuum for the brake servo come from? Thanks Jamie

Sounds like timing to me, even with no glow plugs it should start after a good amount of cranking. But if the timings out then you obviously won’t have fuel Being injected at the right time in the cycle so no fuel to get the engine going

After looking more closely today it’s definitely a lhd arm. So baring in mind that we also need a few other pieces for our axle such as a series ratio diff does anyone know of a complete axle for a series 3 for sale?

Cheers guys! If I’m honest I don’t know what the axle is off, I bought from a friend who’s grandad had just rebuilt before he died but never fitted it to a vehicle. I’ll have a closer look and try to switch things around next weekend thanks Jamie

Hi guys In my rebuild I’ve found that the arm on the passenger hub that takes the drag link from the steering relay is very close to the wheel rim as in the picture. Does anyone know how to resolve this?

Cheers monkie, would you mind if dropped you a message at some point just for a bit more advice once I’m ready to start spraying, probably about a months time at my current progress rate 😂

Hi guys I’ve got a 3/8 bluepoiny ratchet that slips when tightening anything tighter than the resistance from a nyloc nut, does anyone know who to contact to get it repaired as all the sites I can find are American and I haven’t seen a snap on van in months. Jamie

Following what I’ve read on here k managed to pick up an almost new sealey 180 for £100 thanks

I’ve been thinking further on this and I might have a go at rolling the inside but i do have a compressor and a new bluepoint spray gun. I’ve never sprayed before but I have the equipment so I’m very keen to give it a go. Does anyone have a good guide on how to set the gun up, necessary extras such as filters and regulators etc. And cleaning the gun after etc. Thanks Jamie

What’s the beat way to prep? Just varying grades of sandpaper? The finest I have atm is 600 grit, should I look for finer?

Cheers guys, when it comes round to the painting I’ll put some pictures up for everyone

If you do end up having to use the larger flywheel and therefore housing, could a machinist not make an adapter? Should be fairly straight forward, a piece of plate cut into a ring shape with holes in the outside to match the engine and holes on the inside edge to match the gearbox?

Hi guys ive got 2 projects on the go and they’re both coming up to the painting stage fairly soon. Ones a series 2a hardtop and the other a series 3 soft top. Both have been ground up rebuilds so I’m looking for a decent finish but can’t stretch to a professional job for either of them. Whats people’s opinions on roller painting? i have seen some amazing looking examples but I still can’t persuade myself on it. Also if it is worth doing, any advice is much appreciated!! If it makes a difference I’ll be using Pastel green and marine blue. Jamie

From what I’ve seen available it’s eithe a 1/4 or 1/2 chassis including the Cross member or buy some steel plates and female your own patches I’m afraid. Although if the patching is done correctly and all rotten metal is cut away and replaced with good metal, instead of just sticking the metal on top, you’ll get the exact same time out of it as if you’d bought a 1/4 chassis

I had heard that but my dad seems sure he’s got Whitworth spanner’s and apparently sockets somewhere