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landroversforever

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by landroversforever

  1. D4x4 diff guards and ARB156 lockers

    Awesome! Great to see them fitted Andy . Always nice to see a picture of shiny stuff!
  2. Looking for some opinions on the required amount of link separation on a 3-link setup. The only general rule of thumb I've found repeated on the internet is to have the vertical link separation at the axle as 25 of tyre diameter. This sounds reasonable and would mean I should be looking for around 9.25" at the axle. So my main question then comes down to the separation at the chassis. I have yet to mind much information out there on this, only one reference to chassis separation being 2/3 of axle separation. Is there a rough rule to aim for? Or do I need to just go with where the links fit and see what numbers that gives me? I'm also looking to triangulate the two lowers at the chassis end as this will do two things, reduce some of the load on the panhard rod and its also supposed to reduce axle walk. Has anyone got any experience of this? Upper link angles... I remember Bill saying that an offset left upper link will counteract torque roll of the body, does that depend on which way the link slopes? eg up or down to the axle from the chassis mount. I will add that I have absolutely NO space on the drivers side for an upper unless I do away with the diff and/or the engine mount Length of the uppers... the internet seems to suggest 75% of the length of the lowers as a general rule, I believe to mean the squat stays the same during travel? If I go longer on the length of the upper, I'll have less pinion rotation down and keep it pointing more towards the transferbox. Thoughts on this? I've got a wide angle GL/GKN prop but I'm sure sure how much it can cope with angle wise. Others suggest keeping the length similar to the lowers. Now for a brain dump of the thoughts I'm having at the moment, any comments are welcome : (I should add that I've yet to take a tape measure to the chassis, but this is one of the next steps) - Building a reinforced gearbox cross member to take the link mounts, keeping the lowers as tucked into the chassis as I can without sending the antidive sky high. - The reinforced (complete new build) cross member would be linked to a smaller cross member mounted from the holes in the chassis that the gearbox mounts use. That cross member then supporting the gearboxes and spreading the suspension loads back down the chassis. - Getting the upper single link on the passenger side as far up from the axle centre line as I can, dependent on space at full bump. - Build bolt on mounts for the lowers that pick up on the radius arm mounts (to allow me to revert to them for longer trips or if I'm doing lots of road milage). - Along with the previous one, one option is to build link mounts from a Gwyn Lewis style track rod guard, linked to the radius arm mounts. - Looking at the trail gear 'creeper joints' as they can be easily sourced in the UK from Off Road Armoury and have a little compliance in them. I'm not sold on the idea of a heim/rose type joint due to the inherent harshness given that its a multipurpose vehicle. - Looking to build in some adjustment at the mounts where I can, more than likely the uppers with maybe an inch of adjustment either way of the 'main' position. Not sure if I can build much, if any, adjustment into the lowers without making the mounts hang down a long way. - Aiming to have the truck as close to standard height suspension as I can so I'm aiming to be at standard height upto +1", with an absolute max lift of 2" (suspension.... tyres will give me 2" of height over my old BFGs) I'd rather the thread didn't wonder off into suggestions of a one-link, unless the discussions remain informative towards the 3 link if that makes sense. 3 link is what I'd like to go with. I think that's all for now .
  3. Mig reccomendations h

    The issue for most LR stuff with TIG is that it has to be properly properly clean. MIG can put up with a lot in the way of contaminants that would totally screw a TIG weld.
  4. Mig reccomendations h

    You can go off some people Beautiful job Another vote here for Oxford, love mine.
  5. Tablet Power

    You'll find a lot of the twin USB ones will say they can do two of the lower draw items or only the 1 higher output.
  6. Show me your Camping setups

    Don't think I'd make it along that with my pants intact!
  7. Disco 2 V8i PICKUP

    You find with eBay it's easier to put a stupid price in when it's out of stock rather than remove the listing.
  8. 2.5 N/A Snorkel Hybrid

    That made two of us then!
  9. ibex 300 build

    Are you going to carpet over the panels for some more noise reduction or leave them?
  10. 2.5 N/A Snorkel Hybrid

    That looks great! Makes a change to see a drain pipe snorkel put together with care and attention . My old filter housing just had the drains welded up. But you could silicone the drains closed. For the middle joint, mine just had a small bead of silicone around the middle.
  11. New Defender mule

    Just seems to be another article of all the guesses etc being put together.
  12. V8 defender 3 inch snorkel

    It will help it breath easier as it would be like running a shorter snorkel. But what the real world gains are I don't know.
  13. Pre - Fabricated sections

    For the effort involved it's probably worth doug the whole 1/4 or 1/2 chassis rather than just one side. RCP seem to get good reviews.
  14. ibex 300 build

    Looking good Mike!!
  15. 3 Link Questions, discussion and a brain dump

    Don't need know if you've missed the bit I added after Soren's question but that's going to have a bit of S355 box running through the cutouts and across the car, plus there will be more gussets and playing to box in the brackets. The original axle end mount is never going to work as it's about 1" above the axle centreline. Add in that 4" above the centreline is the max I can go up with the upper link I'd only be left with 3" of separation which isn't going to work. For the chassis bracket most of the forces will be going through the original chassis bracket. I've not done any work on that part yet but it will be tied back to the original radius arm mount on the chassis. The inside plate hasn't got anything like that it can be attached to but it will be tied into the opposite side with a slim crossmember (to fit under the LT230) and that will be tied in with the upper link crossmember. So that should spread the load a bit to the 8x M12 holding the upper link crossmember as well as the 3xM12 on each lower link bracket (6x total). Not sure what you're meaning with the movement Daan? The lower link axle end to go up above the axle centre line? That would need the link to fail wouldn't it? As for punching holes in the design, it's all helpful discussion, especially if it means I post details I might not have previously mentioned! Brains are good at filling in the details in a post but only when they're in your head Keep it coming .
  16. Bobbed and caged RRC called The "JWH"

    Ha!! That really does show the scale of the car.... the grill looks enormous
  17. V8 defender 3 inch snorkel

    Having 3" down to the point of narrowing and then 2.5" from there is better than 2.5 the whole way. But as Doug says your flow is only as good as the smallest point. That said even if the intake is only 70mm it will perform better open to the air. So you want as big a pipe as possible to there to minimise the pressure drop.
  18. Anyone on here got any recommendations for a reasonably priced digital level or inclinometer? I’m after something small (IE not built into a normal sized spirit level) that’s fairly accurate.... maybe +/-0.2Deg?
  19. V8 defender 3 inch snorkel

    If you're meaning having a section of the tube that's narrower, you're going to get the gasses slowing as there's a pressure drop across the restriction.
  20. Kelmarsh or Billing

    I went to Billing last year rather than Kelmarsh. I liked the new Billing, it was a much smaller show, more on par with the old Abingdon 4x4 Festival but it was good and I'd go again. The offroad course is always a draw for people and for me it was being able to show the girlfriend what they can do. They'd also got an area where you could have a ride in a racer round a course with some speed and slow stuff which she also enjoyed. I'll personally keep supporting the little guy that the Billing show now is. It's being run by the people who own the farm next to the Aquadrome and the offroad course.
  21. Replaced entire braking system - 3 amigos remain!

    Hmmmm maybe I did looking at that. It was a while ago
  22. Replaced entire braking system - 3 amigos remain!

    There aren't any issues with ABS light when you put a TD5 dash in an earlier car.... at least I didn't have to do anything with mine?
  23. Tire size 1990 Defender 90

    As above its all about driving style. You can break anything with anything if you drive it in the wrong manner so just have a bit of mechanical sympathy and all will be good.
  24. Groaning noise on Ashcroft ATB

    It won't matter whether its an ATB or a standard diff when building... the approach will be the same?! Locker is slightly different with the air bits to sort but the main bits are still the same.
  25. Replaced entire braking system - 3 amigos remain!

    What Nick said. I must admit I really can't see why you'd want to remove it and not just fix it
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