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Fatboy last won the day on July 23 2016

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    Six Land Rovers kinda defines the interests.... Oh and trying to sort out our chunk of Deeside!

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  1. On my first pass I used the old turret but wasn’t happy with the gear change. I then replaced the turret and spent a bit more time setting the springs. Subsequent gear shift was superb. Move recently ordered another Slick Shift for my TD5 and ordered a turret regardless. For the price, considering the objective of gaining a shorter, more defined shift, it’s a good investment. i found the x-Lock still works but is chewing the gaiter on the gearstick because it is a bit higher up.
  2. I’ve had a couple of stainless systems made for my 200TDi’s by The Longlife agent in Glenrothes. They bend and build the system to suit and I’ve been very impressed. I’m sure they only use mild steel clamps and I’ve replaced them at least one but the system hadn’t moved, I just heard the jangling sound of the rusty clamp on the pipe. An alternative would be to get them to fully weld the system so no clamps are used.
  3. The hinges were chopped from a pair of padlock hasps, bought from B&Q. They were wide enough and slightly sturdier than the alternatives.
  4. I’ve got RX8 seats in my 110. The passenger one is hinged with the Mazda runners hinged onto 1” box section which is bolted to the OEM holes. The front of the seat bolts via rivnuts to the box section. Not only does it lift the seat by an inch, by removing the two front bolts and tilting the back of the seat forwards, the base hinges back to give excellent access to the batteries.
  5. The road up the West Coast has stunning scenery, just take your time to enjoy it. The run along Loch Ness is also very pleasant. The A9 has average speed cameras from Inverness so you’ll find traffic can be quite slow and frustrating. I’d suggest peeling of the A9 north of Carrbridge and follow the old A9 (B9152) south through Carrbridge, Aviemore and at Kincraig, take a left to Loch Insch for a stop at the Boathouse for tea / lunch. On leaving the Boathouse, take a right, then another and join “the back road” to Kingussie.. then rejoin the B9152 through Newtonmore. From there, join the A9 and head south, turn off to go through Pitlochry / Blair Atholl if you fancy a meander. If it’s sunny, you won’t beat it!!
  6. If you are parking it on stands in a car park which has a tarmac surface, I’d consider using something under the stands to spread the load too or else you may return to find the stands have slowly sunk into the tar. Especially relevant if it is going to be parked up during the hottest time of the year, wherever you are.
  7. I fitted one to my L322 a few months ago because I’d had a battery draining issue on a previous one. It’s a brilliant piece of kit but checking it becomes addictive.. 😃 i’ll explain - I’d assumed that a healthy battery would sit at 100% charge. After the first couple of days, mine seemed to keep returning to 87%.. even if I trickle charged it to 100%, after some use and another couple of days, it would return to 87% In addition to a percentage, the monitor also provides a graph that you can zoom into for investigating. I drove 150 miles on the 1st Nov, then didn’t move the car on 2nd but drove it again on the 3rd. The graph attached shows a slow drain and a couple of blips which were me unlocking the car to fetch stuff etc. I’ve also seen other drops in battery condition occurring at night which may be temp related. ive not really had a chance to try and correlate drain with events but I will. I want to try it “locked”, “super-locked”, beside the house (close to a Wi-fi repeater) and remote. Needless to say, now, if the Range Rover is going to be parked up for more than a few days I stick the CTEK charger on it to maintain the battery and I’ve bought another couple of monitors for my 90 😃 Hope this helps.
  8. Doug, ive got a 15t that looks similar to Bowie’s. I’ve had it about 10 years and got it from Northern Tool Supplies. its done countless suspension arms and bearings although it has gone to its max a couple of times. I’m on my second bottle jack but the scariest failure was the cast base plates, they both exploded under load, with rather a loud bang. I bought replacements from Zim who was advertising them in the sales section, excellent pieces that are far better. its also worth getting a set of seal drivers and a set of bearing drivers and you’ll probably find yourself building up an arsenal of useful pieces of steel to use as spacers etc, mine are in an old tin on the base and include bearing tracks etc
  9. IIRC, one of the "three up the middle" is a dowel. On mine (which I pulled last week), I initially thought it was jammed until I realised I'd forgotten the 17mm nut on the stud at the top which the earth wire for the reversing switch was attached. if you haven't already, remove the right hand gearbox mount altogether - unbolt it from the chassis and the mounting rubber. That gives a bit more freedom to wiggle the box free.
  10. Okay guys, your thoughts and suggestions seem to back up the opinions of the reputable tuning names who haven't even responded. Thank you. I'll suggest he pops it into our local specialist and gets it checked with diagnostics to confirm all is well.
  11. I must confess I expected somewhat more of a debate. As I'm currently out of the country I sent emails to most of the usual suspects (Inc BAS, IB, JE Eng and Tunit) and have had nothing back there either. ?
  12. Ha ha ! Bit late for that unfortunately! We heard a rumour that following the emissions issue that caught VW, Land Rover issued an instruction to dealers to flash the ECU's without any explanations and possibly that may have been a detune thus an aftermarket tune may be even more worthwhile.
  13. Evening all, A mate has bought a TDV8 Range Rover and is considering getting it tuned. Has anybody got experience (good or bad) of any after market tuners? or maybe have thoughts or experience on whether it should be done or not? Many thanks for any help!
  14. Glad to help. For black, just use the standard Raptor and a Schultz gun (under seal). plain black is much easier as you can mix a canister at a time.. with the tinted, I didn't want to risk different shades so mixed the whole lot in a bucket then decanted it back into the canisters. Also... bear in mind, once its mixed, it starts to set. I had a litre left and thought it might keep till morning. No, it set like jelly. unlike Linex, Raptor doesn't get sprayed on hot, it takes a few weeks to really develop the hard finish.
  15. On the latest attempt (the one in my post from earlier, I used an adhesion promoter from Buzzweld under the Raptor to try and help. I suspect those bubbles on the back door are no worse than they would have been with regular paint, as the water is coming through pin holes from the back.
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