ozzie1989

That's exactly what I'll aim for next time too! I was fitting a Bearmach belt (although it was stamped with a number that corresponds to a Gates manufacturing code). The genuine belt, whilst still fairly tight, went on like a dream! Lesson learnt... that's another thing I won't buy from Bearmach again!

Guys thanks! Yes routing is correct! I tried the 2 person method, even tried warming the belt up, you think you're getting close but everytime I turn the crank to try and get it to slip on - no luck, I have officially given up! I have ordered in a Genuine one this afternoon (that will probably cost me an arm and a leg) to see if that's any better than my pattern one. I'll let you know how I get on, currently vehicle-less!

Did a yearly service on the Defender today consisting of all oils, filters, rear shock absorber bushes (that was fun), lots of greasing and changing the drive belt. Easy - or so I thought! It has a tensioner, oh it will be just like the Ford take the tension off, belt goes floppy, slip off the old belt and slip on the new - oh no! Undid the tensioner as far as it would let me, only just about managed to slip the old belt off. Offered up new belt which appears roughly the same when off the vehicle and it won't go anywhere near it... it's like I need another inch or so! God forbid if I'd have tried to do it with the fan still on! I have already checked the part number stamped into the belt and it is for a TD5 with Air Con (no ACE of course) suitable for a Defender 04 which matches my vehicle perfectly. Before I go off into my "why can't this be as easy as our Ford" rant - are there any tricks, anything I need to know? Many thanks

My mate had a spray liner from someone (can't remember their name maybe Speedliner http://www.speedlinereuro.com) and he paid extra to have the 'Kevlar' version. Maybe a bit OTT for the back of a DC with shelves etc. but we've thrown (and dropped from a digger bucket) blocks, rocks, bricks - basically you name it - and it is still perfect today! I think it cost him £400 to do the back of his L200 pickup (and he had it colour matched to his wheel arches), but well worth it when you consider a few years on it's not even marked with all the abuse it's had!

You don't have to be moving to select Diff Lock but it is designed for this purpose. You shouldn't stop just to engage/disengage diff lock. If you see an obstacle ahead that might need it slide it in, when you've passed back out. That way you never forget and leave diff lock in and you're driving in a much more efficient manner than stopping and starting when you don't need to. As for Hi/Low then yes I do personally stop, or slow to a few MPH. On the move this takes practise, so if you're not sure stop for this one! Generally you shouldn't be swapping between Hi/Low anyway. I always drop into Low on a track, even if I need to use 4th low you shouldn't be speeding around anyway! I change back when on tarmac or open gravel roads. I see some people who stay in high until they really need low and keep swapping back and forth - there really is no point and it'll save your clutch in the long run!

You would be amazed at the number of people who look at me stupidly when I talk about greasing the UJ's reguarly! It's a servicable item (as is anything with a grease nipple, involving oil etc. etc.) and should be checked reguarly. I must confess I only grease mine every few months, if you off-road this should be more often!

If you shop online you will usually see a picture, it's easy to tell which ones stop short and which ones go right back. I can vouch for 'Mammouth' chequerplate, I bought mine from First Four (www.firstfour.co.uk) and it's the best I've had after going through 2 sets of the cheaper plate that just corrodes.

If you can take the head and all associated bits off, you should be able to put it back together in theory! Do you have anyone you can ask to help and give them some beer tokens etc? I find a helping voice (if not a helping hand) helps in the old confidence department!

Another vote for a warped manifold or broken manifold studs, once you've heared it once you will recognise it again and again. Open the bonnet and get someone to rev it up quite hard, usually (as landy andy says) it will only happen under certain conditions, but most I've diagnosed have done it at a standstill at high revs too.

Take the instrument binnacle off - 2 screws on the side at the top and 2 underneath all of 1 minutes work. There are a host of relays behind there, as well as lots of wires. Run the vehicle and see if you can pinpoint which one. You will probably be able to feel a dodgy relay clicking with your finger, if not a screwdriver to your ear resting on it.

I tried a Discovery one in my Defender before... It worked (as in the vehicle started and was driveable) but smoked a lot, didn't seem very responsive (could have been due to the mapping on the ECU) and also the temperature gauge worked backwards (although sometimes appeared to work ok but shot up into the RED for no apparent reason and back). I did code the injectors with my Nanocom before starting her up, and synced up the Alarm Unit etc. As I say it worked fine, maybe ok for emergencies but not so great for every day. I wanted it to experiment with mapping etc. but decided it wasn't worth the risk if it didn't work properly in the first place.

Next time you do change the fob, follow the correct procedure and you shouldn't have any issues... You can find the correct procedure here: "You'll need: A CR2032 button battery, LR recommend Panasonic. A small screwdriver to separate the two sides of the fob. Your Land Rover! > Sit in the drivers seat with the drivers door closed. Keep it closed for the duration of the battery replacement*. > Turn the ignition to position II, return to position 0 and remove the key. > Gently split the key fob casing into its two parts, taking care not to damage the rubber seal. > Slide the old battery out of the clip, avoid touching the circuit board or other components. > Insert new battery. Don't leave any finger prints on it which can cause premature discharge. > Push the two halves of the fob back together. > Operate the key fob at least 4 times to re-synchronise it with the car. It should lock/unlock. > Turn the ignition back to position II and check it will start. *The immobiliser has a passive re-arm function which activates within 30 seconds if the drivers door is opened. If you don't open the driver's door this period is extended to 5 minutes. If you only have one fob and the immobiliser re-arms during the battery change you have to go through the re-synchronisation, which involves turning the key in the ignition numerous times and opening/closing the drivers door repeatedly." Taken off the internet For now you will have to try the above, although I believe there is a resyncronisation procedure you can use if that doesn't work. What that is and where to find it I don't know - but a quick call to a LR garage may help.

A quick search on the forum came up with the following thread: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=29539

How did it stop working? You can pair up key fobs with a Nanocom if you know anyone that has one...

Pumps can go... and if you are getting funny noises when you turn the ignition on (rather than a nice whirring) then it definately sounds like your pump! Either that or you have a dodgy fuel filter, or there is air getting into the fuel lines. See the other thread in this section by someone else which explains about changing a pump... I think there may even be something in the tech archive!

Same here... I'd be interested in a set and could give you some feedback! I'm willing to pay (with some forum discount of course )

Congratulations I'm sure you'll love it!

Best thing to do is find a local replacement part if you are in columbia... Are you sure it's that making the noise? It can be hard to diagnose on the exhaust system as sounds can travel along it.

On the basis you have a TD5 (not TDI)... Measure the fuel pressure at the Fuel Temp Sender, you should be seeing a constant 4bar at all times with the engine running. It does sound like you are getting air in the system, and with a TD5 engine this will cause you all sorts of problems as it runs a high pressure fuel system. What does your fuel pump sound like when you initially put the ignition on? If it isn't a constant whirr of the pump, but changes and gurgles then you do indeed have air. It could also be a sign of the fuel pump on it's way out - as these do go quite often. Unfortunately they are located on the top of the fuel tank and you'll need to remove or cut your floor to get at it (unless you want to remove the tank).

Not sure if you've done this already... Look at the roof at the front. Right at the front of the roof on the top there is a lip as it folds down over the windscreen frame. I had a leak similar to yours and it baffled me for years, until a friend told me to check here. Look along the length of the fold and you may see some cracks in the paint - if you dont scrub the area clean and no doubt you will! I had a few and, as a test, covered them up with duck tape. I didn't have a leak any more! I've now done the job properly with sealant. If you're struggling to picture this - let me know and I'll take a pic. I also went down the route of filling the gutters, but I made the mistake of using silicone and now I can't get it out! Whooooops

You don't really need a 2nd battery for a winch - well unless you plan on using it for some serious stuff. All it means is that it will drain your 1 battery quicker than it would the 2... and it will take longer for the alternator to recharge it. For the winching I've done, I would have easily coped on one battery. The only problem you might have is if you stall the vehicle whilst winching - then you might have trouble re-starting.

I find insurance on hard tops/commercials cheaper (especially with NFU) than with the 'car' variants! Again recommend NFU (although you'll need someone in your family to be insured with them already if you're under 25 and not already insured with them)... If your logbook states PLG (Private Light Goods) you should be able to get car insurance on it. If your logbook states LGV (Light Goods Vehicle) you need to get van insruance on it.

I again, highly recommend First Four! Peter is a top chap! I have one of his non-tubular air-con bumpers and it's fantastic. I only have a Champion C12000EWX winch as I don't use it regularly and it's only there as a backup for when I organise greenlaning trips and I need to initiate a recovery in an emergency situation - although in saying that it did fantastic duty up in North Wales! As far as batteries go, check out 'Alpha Batteries' or 'The Battery Man' on eBay etc... I bought two of their own brand 110ah 650cca batteries 2 years ago for £120 inc postage and they are fantastic. You can easily fit 2 in the battery box (I found the height a main problem), the guy was very helpful, and they come with a 4 year warranty! The 2nd battery can run a £40 coolbox at 4amp for 2 days before dropping below 11.5v and they power my winch with no problem!

TTI Cb's are good - I think I have the 880! Those mounts pictured above (known as PSM-1 mounts) are fantastic - I have one! And 4x4cb.com are great for value and service!

The current time is a great time if you are selling a Land Rover... over the past month or so I've noticed a great decline on the number of Defenders (especially 110's) on the market. Finding good 'older' ones is even harder! I've noticed good 90's on eBay over the past few weeks with 50 or 60 bids - a 2002 TD5 County Station Wagon with 60k on the clock went for something like 12k the other day! Just keep looking... although you might want to widen your search area to the whole country if you need something quick!