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plasticbadger

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About plasticbadger

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    New Forest, England

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  1. Sorry, not been on for a couple of weeks, so thought I'd update. The truck is mechanically 100% standard, running the factory 18" alloys. It does have a transmission cooler. After the work done by the garage over two sessions (new rad, flushed coolant system, new thermostat, new viscous coupling, new expansion bottle cap) it was still running on idle fine, but overheating as soon as it was at speed/load. I took it home and it overheated twice in the 25 miles - not ideal. I've had suggests of head gaskets, block porous, slipped liners, etc. Sadly with an impending house move I don't have the time or money to pull it apart and start looking inside, plus Mrs PB was starting to get fed up with driving the non-AC equipped Land Cruiser everyday. So I ran the Irontite system through it. I thought i'd done a terrible thing, as the D2 cooling system is hard to drain fully between stages and I ended up with loads of sludge in the system, so I left it sat for 2 weeks, then thought sod it, I'll buy a banger, but before I do I'll take it out and kill it to prove a point. I drove it Winchester and back not taking it easy (officer). No issues. Now, 4 days into daily use again all seems good. I'll properly flush the cooling system in a week and strip it down at some point, but a good temporary fix has been had. Plus I can go to 7S this weekend in the Land Cruiser without worrying about using it when I'm back 😉
  2. I'm getting a lot of suggestions that it's liner related from friends, so I'm at a bit of a loss! Work done so far is: radiator replaced, water pump replaced, viscous fan hub replaced, thermostat replaced, top hose assembly replaced, most of the spring clips of hoses changed for jubilee clips, head tank cap replaced. I've not used the truck since picking it up from the garage, their conclusion being 'engine internal issue' but not what or where without stripping the engine down. My concern is if I pour loads of time and money into doing the head gaskets only to find it's a liner and the problem still exists...
  3. Hi all, I’m hoping someone can help with suggestions on a problem we’re having on my wife’s Disco. It’s a late Disco 2 4.0 V8 Thor, auto, with the secondary air system etc. Basically last of the Rover V8s. It’s done just over 100k and for the last couple of years I’ve been chasing some water leaks here and there, however I’ve always kept it regularly topped up with proper coolant. A couple of weeks ago it seemed to suddenly use a lot of water, plus coughed and spluttered a few times. I topped it up, ran it locally for a few days and all seemed good. Then it overheated on my wife, about 10-15 miles up the motorway for us. I came and picked it up, refilled the coolant, drove it home gently no problems. I stripped all the hoses off it, flushed the cooling system, refitted everything and checked it was water tight. The next day I took it to work, it overheated again, 5 miles onto the motorway. So I delivered it to the local Land Rover specialist and left it! The garage had it for six days, replaced the radiator, replaced the thermostat, replaced the water pump, replaced all the nasty hose clips with jubilee clips. They say they pressure tested it and sniff tested it, all good, no issues. I picked it up (getting over £500 poorer in the process) and hey presto it overheated about 5 miles onto the motorway. Now its back at the garage, again they pressure tested it, sniff tested it, ran it locally, ran it on idle for hours, no problems. They replaced the viscous coupling. Then THEY took it on the motorway, a couple miles of going fast (real fast) and it overheated. So what do you guys reckon? Head gaskets? Block? If so why doesn’t show on a pressure test or sniff test? Why does it only die on the motorway?
  4. I've just returned from my week in Wales. The weather was pretty bad, with a lot of rain. I drove Strata Florida twice, once down ways on Tuesday and once up ways on Thursday, an amazing road. Sadly between my runs a group had passed through and gone 'off piste' damaging the grassland around a couple of the deeper puddles. Stupid really as even on the Thursday when the rivers were really high there was nothing that challenged my lightly modified Land Cruiser. The correct right of way is also very clearly sign posted. I also took in a number of other local lanes, including Elan Valley and Lynn Brianne, which both have some amazing scenery. Highly recommended!
  5. Ok, so not a lot of response! I've spoken to a local guide who's confirmed the main Strata Florida route is open, booked camping and down loaded some MotionX routes, so hopefully I'm all set. I'll post an update about how it goes over the next few days.
  6. I'm looking for something to do next week with the kids and had the idea of driving Strata Florida, plus local area lanes. There's loads of info online, but nothing recent/current. Can anybody help with: Details of the local lanes, what's open and what's not. Any GPS lane start locations, or routes. Recommendations on local camping, I'm looking for a family friendly campsite to base myself from (decent toilets and showers for the kids). Thank you for any help!
  7. I just thought I'd update this, as I hate threads like this that have no resolution! The faults were all down to the Crank Position Sensor. I think the fault codes it was flashing up were incorrect speed input and no speed input on the gearbox ECU. It seemed that the CPS would drop out, the engine keeps running, but the gearbox kicks up a fault. I fitted a new CPS and instantly fixed, lovely. Then a couple of weeks ago it did it again! New Land Rover (Bosch) genuine CPS fitted this time and all fixed. Serves me right for buying the cheapest one off eBay
  8. I wasn't quite sure where to put this, so mods please feel free to move. Basically I'm looking at buying a boat which is fitted with a Perkins Prima M50 engine. This is the marine N/A version of the Montego engine that was a popular swap into Series Land Rovers before TDIs became more accessible. It's a little under powered for my use and rather than track down a turboed car unit of the Prima I thought why not just chuck a 200/300TDI in there?! So then, my question is, how similar are the gearbox mountings on the two engines? The boat is shaft drive, so has a small 1:1 gearbox behind the engine, is the block bolt spacing the same between Prima and TDI, flywheel attachment, starter motor? How likely is it that I can swap the gearbox from one to the other? Don't worry about mounting the motor, cooling, belts etc. I can sort all that if the gearbox fits!
  9. Hi all, I'm hoping for suggestions on a weird fault on Mrs PB's Disco V8. It's a late Series 2 with the 4.0L Thor V8 and auto box. There's two faults that don't happen at the same time, but may be inter-linked. Fault 1 is that a couple of times while driving the green 'M' and 'S' gearbox lights on the dash flash, along with the 'D' in the speedo and the red light on the gear stick. A warning 'bong' sounds. Turn it off and on and it's fine. It drives fine while the lights are on. Fault 2 is more common, it has happened regularly for the last week. About 2-4 miles from cold the truck will suddenly just die. The engine revs fall and the engine cuts out. No coughing or missing, just falls to stall. It then won't re-start for between 1 and 5 minutes, it just spins and doesn't fire. No lights appear (the engine management light is on ALL the time due to a dead secondary air pump). Once re-started the fault doesn't happen again, or at least not within the 10-20 mile runs we've been on. It's only happening from stone cold. I've checked some obvious things and the truck had a recent (300 miles ago) full engine service. I don't believe the gearbox oil has been changed and on these later trucks there's no way of checking it easily. Any helpful thoughts?
  10. Hi all, I'm hoping for suggestions on a weird fault on Mrs PB's Disco V8. It's a late Series 2 with the 4.0L Thor V8 and auto box. There's two faults that don't happen at the same time, but may be inter-linked. Fault 1 is that a couple of times while driving the green 'M' and 'S' gearbox lights on the dash flash, along with the 'D' in the speedo and the red light on the gear stick. A warning 'bong' sounds. Turn it off and on and it's fine. It drives fine while the lights are on. Fault 2 is more common, it has happened regularly for the last week. About 2-4 miles from cold the truck will suddenly just die. The engine revs fall and the engine cuts out. No coughing or missing, just falls to stall. It then won't re-start for between 1 and 5 minutes, it just spins and doesn't fire. No lights appear (the engine management light is on ALL the time due to a dead secondary air pump). Once re-started the fault doesn't happen again, or at least not within the 10-20 mile runs we've been on. It's only happening from stone cold. I've checked some obvious things and the truck had a recent (300 miles ago) full engine service. I don't believe the gearbox oil has been changed and on these later trucks there's no way of checking it easily. Any helpful thoughts?
  11. All sorted, sorry the mails had snuck into my junk mail...
  12. I've paid for membership and seven sisters tickets through the SLRC website, but received nothing other than the PayPal confirmation. Can I just check that you've got my money and I'm good to go?!
  13. I bought it from the main dealer, Westover, and it is company owned so would be VAT qualifying.
  14. Hi, hoping the forum can help. I've owned my first Defender for just over a year and I have to omit, the Defender just isn't for me. I'm now thinking of parting with it, but as it's on finance I need to be sure of value before I start looking for a replacement. The problem is that values (or more importantly asking price) seems to vary hugely, most likely as I found when buying this truck there's not many locally to choose from. So I'm hoping that you guys can help give me an idea of value. I hasten to add this is not a for sale add, I just want an idea of current market value! The truck in question: 2010 Defender 110 2.4 TDCi XS Utility wagon Usual XS spec plus winter pack (heated screen and seats), HD Dixon Bate tow pack with dual electrics, Parrot hands free, reversing camera, Dynomat type sound deadening throughout, Alive ATRIC tuning module with 425NM 'towing' tune, HD turbo manifold gaskets (required for increased boost). Note the tune is not stupid, it's very tractable and pulls smoothly from low revs, the engine is a delight and I will miss it! 4 new tyres. It's higher mileage at just over 80,000, but has full main dealer service history and has had extended warranty until last week so has wanted for nothing. Major service done at 72,000 and 12 months MOT. Its NEVER been off road and still has the land rover factory paper stickers on the chassis, but is showing its age a little with surface corrosion on the mud flap brackets, screen 'hinges' and side bars. Body and interior are very clean, nearly mint otherwise. except a small trailer dint on the right rear corner.
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