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MuddyWinny

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About MuddyWinny

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    Essex

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  1. Thanks for replying. I'll take a look at SPx4. I can always buy the 4mm and prepare for a challenge fitting it 🙂
  2. I need to replace the felt channel in the doors. According to my age/VIN etc (1986 90 with lift up door handles) the doors should have 5mm glass fitted but it measures about 3.8mm. Given the black filler parts have the same part number for 5mm and 4mm glass am I correct in thinking I can simply buy the channel for 4mm glass and it will fit?
  3. I seem to recall reading that the R380 fitted to the TD5 has a small diameter input shaft where it sits in the spigot bearing. Happy to stand corrected if I'm wrong.
  4. It might be worth removing the fuel sender gauge and possibly the filler pipe. If you can see the piece of tape you might be able to retrieve it.
  5. Would this be suitable: https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/62485-supercharging-your-heater/
  6. In case it helps anyone else I'd like to say that I have had rather good service from https://www.partshopdirect.co.uk/. While addressing some rust on my Landrover the motor on my angle grinder decided to fail. I have no connection with the company other than that I placed my my first order with them recently and found they were very helpful with parts queries etc and would be more than happy to use them again.
  7. I have sensible conversations with 2Gether Insurance with regards to a modified vehicle although I don't know where they stand on it being your daily drive.
  8. I went through a similar process a few years ago. DVLA sent the V5 back requiring evidence such as that mentioned above. I called them to check what they would accept as I hadn't paid a garage to change the engine. In the end a local garage provide a letter stating the engine number, CC and fuel type that was fitted and DVLA was happy. However, that didn't stop several rounds of me going back to DVLA saying that they had changed the engine number but not the fuel and CC, then fuel and CC not not engine number, then..... I got there in the end.
  9. Thank you It was a bit disheartening to see oil pouring out and know you need to take the gearbox and transfer box out again.
  10. Quick update... Yes, it is the seal in the aluminium housing, and yes, it was the seal. In the end I was really OCD about keeping the seal journal clean and made 5 guide studs by cutting the head of bolts and putting a chamfer on the end. I fitted a seal from Turner Engineering and had the engine running on the drive for an hour and 15 minutes without it leaking so fingers crossed all is well. Thanks for all the replies. Mark
  11. Hello, Yes. Hmm, everything I have read says to fit the seal dry. Since the old one leaked I needed to clean oil from the journal. I've fitted a seal from Turner Engineering. I guess I'll find out how long it lasts... Thanks for replying. Mark
  12. The starter motor stuck on for me once and got hot enough to smoke... I though I was going to watch my Landrover go up in flames... Anyway, the cause was the shaft that the starter gear slides forward on becoming dry and coated with muck (i.e. the usual dirt from inside the bell housing). The spring on the solenoid couldn't pull the starter gear back to disengage it. If this is the cause you can remove the starter motor and clean the shaft.
  13. Thanks for replying. I never knew speedi sleeves existed and would be worth a look. I'm sure I only went around journal and not on the bit the existing seal had 'polished' (it was a few weeks ago now) but i obviously did something wrong. I have bought a new seal from Turner Engineering. They have advised me that the gasket is now obsolete and to use sealant (which I also purchased). I'm hoping to take the transfer box and gearbox out this weekend and replace the seal again. I also plan to let the sealant set overnight. Fingers crossed... Mark
  14. Is it ok to clean the rear crank seal journal with brake cleaner? After fitting one and having it leak I'm cautious about damaging the Teflon seal. Thanks Mark
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