MuddyWinny

I can recommend 2Gether Insurance.

In case it helps I have had partially seized (or sticky) brakes cause a squeal (although on a different vehicle). In my case it was the pads stuck as opposed to the piston in the calliper. As above, it doesn't really fit with the criteria and you have already changed the pads. Does the squeal change the harder you brake?

OK, Thanks.

Does anyone know the part number for the drive shaft spacer for a Discovery 2 TD5 w-reg? It is the flat ring slides onto the drive shaft before you fit the CV joint if that makes any sense. Thanks

I've been lucky enough to have a metal supplier a couple of miles from where I work. There are a couple of down sides to this though such as 1) They only sell preferred sizes, e.g. sheets 2mx1m, however, they are happy to cut it in the guillotine. Sometimes they do have off-cuts. 2) Since they sell really only sell to the trade they open Monday to Friday so weekend visits are out

Thanks for replying. I'll take a look at SPx4. I can always buy the 4mm and prepare for a challenge fitting it 🙂

I need to replace the felt channel in the doors. According to my age/VIN etc (1986 90 with lift up door handles) the doors should have 5mm glass fitted but it measures about 3.8mm. Given the black filler parts have the same part number for 5mm and 4mm glass am I correct in thinking I can simply buy the channel for 4mm glass and it will fit?

I seem to recall reading that the R380 fitted to the TD5 has a small diameter input shaft where it sits in the spigot bearing. Happy to stand corrected if I'm wrong.

It might be worth removing the fuel sender gauge and possibly the filler pipe. If you can see the piece of tape you might be able to retrieve it.

Would this be suitable: https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/62485-supercharging-your-heater/

In case it helps anyone else I'd like to say that I have had rather good service from https://www.partshopdirect.co.uk/. While addressing some rust on my Landrover the motor on my angle grinder decided to fail. I have no connection with the company other than that I placed my my first order with them recently and found they were very helpful with parts queries etc and would be more than happy to use them again.

I have sensible conversations with 2Gether Insurance with regards to a modified vehicle although I don't know where they stand on it being your daily drive.

I went through a similar process a few years ago. DVLA sent the V5 back requiring evidence such as that mentioned above. I called them to check what they would accept as I hadn't paid a garage to change the engine. In the end a local garage provide a letter stating the engine number, CC and fuel type that was fitted and DVLA was happy. However, that didn't stop several rounds of me going back to DVLA saying that they had changed the engine number but not the fuel and CC, then fuel and CC not not engine number, then..... I got there in the end.

Yikes...I'll be happy with twice then :-)

Thank you It was a bit disheartening to see oil pouring out and know you need to take the gearbox and transfer box out again.

Quick update... Yes, it is the seal in the aluminium housing, and yes, it was the seal. In the end I was really OCD about keeping the seal journal clean and made 5 guide studs by cutting the head of bolts and putting a chamfer on the end. I fitted a seal from Turner Engineering and had the engine running on the drive for an hour and 15 minutes without it leaking so fingers crossed all is well. Thanks for all the replies. Mark

Hello, Yes. Hmm, everything I have read says to fit the seal dry. Since the old one leaked I needed to clean oil from the journal. I've fitted a seal from Turner Engineering. I guess I'll find out how long it lasts... Thanks for replying. Mark

The starter motor stuck on for me once and got hot enough to smoke... I though I was going to watch my Landrover go up in flames... Anyway, the cause was the shaft that the starter gear slides forward on becoming dry and coated with muck (i.e. the usual dirt from inside the bell housing). The spring on the solenoid couldn't pull the starter gear back to disengage it. If this is the cause you can remove the starter motor and clean the shaft.

Thanks for replying. I never knew speedi sleeves existed and would be worth a look. I'm sure I only went around journal and not on the bit the existing seal had 'polished' (it was a few weeks ago now) but i obviously did something wrong. I have bought a new seal from Turner Engineering. They have advised me that the gasket is now obsolete and to use sealant (which I also purchased). I'm hoping to take the transfer box and gearbox out this weekend and replace the seal again. I also plan to let the sealant set overnight. Fingers crossed... Mark

Is it ok to clean the rear crank seal journal with brake cleaner? After fitting one and having it leak I'm cautious about damaging the Teflon seal. Thanks Mark

I very much doubt I'm the first person to experience this but I'm feeling somewhat distressed at the moment as this afternoon was the first time I started the 90 after replacing the rear main oil seal and it didn't take long before there was a pool of engine oil underneath it (few minutes) , say 5cm diameter. I'd taken the gearbox out to replace the core plug at the back of the engine that was leaking coolant. While there I changed the clutch etc and since the rear main was an unknown I changed it as well (oh how I regret doing that now). I used a genuine seal from LRDirect. I also used a gasket as one was originally fitted. I was very careful not to touch the seal and progressively tightened each of the bolts so it went on as square as possible. It did suddenly move into place as it came off the plastic guide if that makes sense. There was a little surface rust on the rear of the crank (in front of where the old seal had run, i.e. further back to flywheel, if that makes sense). Not being sure if this would damage the new seal I cleaned the surface with P1500 wet and dry. Since the rear was of the crank had oil on it I cleaned it with brake cleaner (My understanding is that it leaves no residue on the surface cleaned). The only other thing that comes to mind is whether I fitted the gasket the right way round. It is formed at the bottom such that one side there is a groove and protrudes the other and I can't remember if I fitted the groove to the block or oil seal. I think the grove went to the block. So I'll do another rear main oil seal but I'm really concerned that either I've damaged the seal journal by cleaning it or something else it wrong. I think the t-seals are weeping but I wasn't brave enough to change them. Chances are they did get brake cleaner on them when I cleaned the rear of the block. Any advice is welcome. Is it likely I have damaged the seal journal on the rear or the crank? Would t-seals cause such a leak? Finally, would someone confirm which way round to fit the gasket? Thanks Mark

Yes please. I'll PM some details. Thanks Mark

Thanks Western

Does anyone know if all 300tdi engine mounts are the same? I need a set for a 300tdi originally fitted to a discovery. Thanks

Have you looked at Elmdale Welding? You pay for the right to use the bottle for 10 years and then refills. Worked out the cheapest for me. As already said above also look at the pressure in the bottle. Some suppliers are much lower.