Coddy

No you cant..... IF the vehicle was rear wheel drive only then yes, such as the custom cars of years gone by etc.... But on a vehicle thats in 4 wheel drive, then no, it will do untold damage to diffs and gearboxes....

Cheers Guys, So how do I get to the switch, from underneath, or from inside the car by removing centre console????

Reverse lights dont work on my 96 300 tdi.... Changed the bulbs today 'just in case' still nothing... So next port of call is the switch, where would this be on the gearbox, had a quick look and cant see anything obvious..... Dunno what box I have either....

Changed my exhaust the other day, jack up rear near side and remove wheel, little jiggery and exhaust will go over axle.... Angle grinder is yer best mate for old exhausts..

Thanks guys, I mfairly competent in the mechanic department, so tackling this should be OK.. Just wantede to make sure there were no 'hidden' extras so to speak..

How easy is it to change the cam belt on a 300 tdi? Mine has done 103k and not sure if the belt has been changed as no history with the vehicle.. As an aside, IF the cambelt goes on one of these engines what if any damage could occur, Regards Coddy

Thanks for the input guys, at least i know my gauge is not sticking now And im not about to run out..... At 70mph my revs are showing 2500 rpm.... Regards

Are the tyre pressures OK??

What sort of range could I expect from a 2.5 tdi 300. Only just bought one, filled up to the brim and done 200 miles on 1/4 of a tank... What sort of average distance could I expect from a full tank???

Sidewalls can be repaired, its normally known as a major repair, its not cheap, usually around £30 to get it done, and it has to go away to a specialist firm, this all depends on how severe the sidewall damage is, and how happy you are driving with it... We used to have the wagon ones done if we ripped a tyre out on the building sites, never had one go wrong and we were running at 110 - 120 psi... though through personnel choice I would not fit one on steering axle, always used em paired on the drive axles.. Hope this helps..

I have done the 2.8TD Daihatsu swap myself, good engine and a fairly easy swap, though you will need to cut away some of the passenger footwell and refabricate it a bit to take the Turbo, plus you will need to fabricate an exhaust system.. I used a new series clutch on it, but make sure the conversion kit you get has a piece of brass like a tube, this fits in the 2.8 flywheel to take dia of the gearbox shaft, you will also need to drill and tap new holes in the flywheel to take series pressure plate. You will need to use the series gearbox, as this has the handrake on the propshaft, to fit a Daihatsu box means trying to fabricate some sort of handbrake system.. and also totally redesigning the floor of the cab as gearlever would be in a different place. To date Ive had no issues with it, I dont thrash mine, she is happy to cruise at 50, does not drink fuel and pulls well, the weak links are the halfshafts and the series gearbox, but so long as they are in good nice with fresh oil in etc, and you dont try burning off Chavs at the lights you will have a good set up.

Debs, I have a spare gearbox that could be up for grabs soonish, we will be moving to Treuddyn at the end of October, and so long as my beast makes the journey from Kent to Flintshire, then I will get rid of the box when I get up there. Let me know how you get on..... PS, Any jobs going at Boughton?? Forklift, van driving, HGV etc......

I agree, just fitted one to my Series 3 88", easy conversion, conversion plate was purchased from Precision Engineering, I have not suffered from the starter motor woes with this kit. Engine mounts, all bolts etc supplied. Ditch the Daihatsu alt though, and fitted Landy one, the Dai one with external voltage reg is a pain to say the least. Anyway, landy goes like s*** of a shovel, and doner car car cost £200 a lot of which I got back in selling parts on e bay..

Ok, So if i go the Astra Alt route, what wiring diagram would have been the Land Rover system, could someone do me a basic shematic thats idiot proof I take it that ALL pulleys are a sraight swap, ie Alt shafts are all the same diameter/threads etc.... Or a basic schematic of the wiring for a reg, jsut so I can have one more go..........I dont like being beaten.

Would these be a straight fit to the Daihastu? The oil feed can be bypassed and I dont need the vacumn. More concerned the pulleys are going to line up if I use another alt... And then I still wont know how to wire it