steve_d

Hi Does anyone have a resourse for original purchase prices for any pre 1995 models? Been searching all over the place without success. Many thanks in advance. Steve

Hi I/we would be providing the support so we need to put together the complete package. I will check the FIA site for licences The guy has deep enough pockets but no deeper than they need be....he Scotish. Steve

Merry Christmas and happy New Year. I have been asked to support someone who wants to do the Dakar Rally. There is no expectation of being competitive. Completing the event in a reasonably well specified vehicle is the order of the day. I have made it clear that 2012 is not viable as neither the driver or co-driver/navigator has done any racing of this nature. The plan therefore is to build the teams competence and fitness etc over the coming two years and compete in an increasing number of events prior to the Dakar of 2013. We plan to buy a car to get started and over the coming months learn if it is suitable. If it is not then we would most likely build one that is. We believe a Bowler or Rally Raid XLR or Desert Warrior is the type of vehicle we will go for. Now to the questions. • What UK and European events would provide the best training for both driver and vehicle? • What vehicle specifications/compliance would be required for the local events? • What licenses would be required? • Links to anywhere that would be useful. Google has not been helpful due, I think, to all the different names given to this type of racing. • Best place to look for a used competition car? Zillions more questions but will keep it simple to start with. Many thanks for your thoughts. Steve

Have you calibrated the throttle pot? If this is wrong MS will be all over the place and may even think it is in 'flood clear'. Steve

Had this issue some time back with a 110 which I look after. We had the weight info changed without any argument. They did however take three attempts before they actually put the figure in the right box. Steve At the same time, and whilst going through the change process, we checked out the class 7 test and found a place that did them cheaper than 4.

If wrapping the resistance wire around the pipe provides poor transfer to the washer fluid could the wire be passed down the inside of the tube? Steve

My vote goes for the ignition amp. Think the tech archive has a test sequence giving expected voltages and resistance throughout the system. Steve

The circuit info I have been using give:- pump 10 EDIS 20 Lambda 5 EAV 2 Injectors 10 MS 2 Steve

What temp thermostat are you running? It may just be that the coolant temp is not high enough. Steve

Duralac is specified by the MOD for all dissimilar metal applications on its naval equipments. Does a fine job of it too. Steve

I have completely failed to get PWM working with either of the two MS units I have. Moreover nobody has been able to come up with a reason why. Steve

Good diagnostic route but don't do it if you have steel braided hoses. It will make a right mess of them. Steve

Frost do one but it is both more expensive (£26) and more sophisticated. It comes with a number of heads for different profiles. Frost tool Steve

If you are saying the sensor has only one wire then you have replaced the wrong sensor. That is the one for the temperature gauge. The one that always causes problems is at the front of the inlet manifold on the right as you look at the engine. There are two sensors side by side. The one you want is difficult to get at as it is right behind the 'Thermotime switch' which controls the Extra Air Valve. To replace the sensor it is easiest to remove the TT switch first so you can get a spanner on the temp sensor. Steve

A sabre/reciprocating saw will do the job very well and disturb the neighbours less than an angle grinder. Steve

I used a letter from Companies House showing me as a director of an automotive business. Some of the savings are non existent others are 60 odd %. Steve

As I said earlier if you cut out the chassis number from the rail you can use this as proof to the DVLA that that chassis number cannot be re-used so therefore is destroyed. If you sell the remaining metal (as that is now all that it is) to someone who fabricates it into an offroad vehicle then fine. Steve

In the kitcar scene proof of the scrapping of a donor vehicle is very important when you come to register. It is therefore common practice to remove the VIN plate and cut out the chassis stamping so you can slap them both on the DVLA counter as proof. In the case of a LR the chassis is the vehicle. If you sell it the vehicle is no longer yours regardless whether you hang onto the V5. When I modified the my RRC chassis to build the Dakar DVLA allocated a new chassis number which I had to stamp into the chassis below the original number. I also had to stamp a line through the original but still leave it legible. Steve

I'm M3BBH and have been a member of RAYNET for about 15 years. Steve

I believe the end of the cable wraps around a quadrant at the 'box end. If you pull on the cable at the engine end and get way more cable than you expected then I suspect it has become disconnected. As already said you have to take the sump off to get at it. Don't think it will make a difference but have you run the engine and selected through the gear range in case that frees the quadrant if it has jammed. When you do the job replace the filter but don't replace the trans. fluid with new unless you really have too. It is said that the new fluid contains detergents that will free up sludge that has quietly nestled in corners for years. The sludge will then block the filters or jam up the valve block. Make sure you have gaskets and a new filter to hand before you start. Steve

This went around a little while back. The answer I came away with was paraffin and jizzer.. Works fine. Had a hell of a job finding paraffin until I tripped over it in B&Q garden section. Steve

The table is relative so first question is what 'Required Fuel' setting are you running and what engine is it. If the required fuel figure is wrong the whole table will also be wrong. Steve

If it has serpentine belts then yes you can bin the dizzy and turn up a nice bung to go in its place. Steve

Are you sure all cylinders are firing? Check that all the glow plugs are warming. I have used a laser thermometer for this in the past. [health warning] I would imagine you could just feel them but I'm not sure if you would burn your fingers[/Health warning]. Steve

A trip around all the connectors is called for. Cold start injector. Extra air valve...good one that as almost impossible to get at. thermotime sensor...you did fit a brand new one when it was all stripped down didn't you? Water temp sensor alongside thermotime. Have you swapped the connectors on the above? ie plugged them in the wrong way round. Steve