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abosely

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  1. See, that’s why I post pics & info here, so you guys don’t have to decide between logging into FB or licking your armpits! 😄 Cheers, Allen
  2. I made a FB new page that focuses on the build as a 100”. facebook.com/built100inch/ It will be a bit before I get it written and have pics up. But check it out & let me know what you think. Cheers, Allen
  3. I made a FB page that focuses on the build as a 100”. facebook.com/built100inch/ It will be a bit before I get it written and have pics up. But check it out & let me know what you think. Cheers, Allen
  4. I would love to be able to do that too! But it’s above my skill grade. But that’s right up Dave Marshs’ alley! Cheers, Allen
  5. That’s good to hear, I don’t have any experience with R380 yet. I’ll put an oil pump & run a gearbox cooler, and put temp labels on it to know what the temperatures really are. I’ll be using an Allisport Defender full width radiator with twin 13.5” fans & 2 built in oil coolers. One for the gearbox & one for the power steering. Engine oil cooler will be separate. The inlets & outlets can be rearranged as needed when ordering it. I like that super magnetic drain plug! Cheers, Allen
  6. I concur, I’ll be running an oil cooler for the gearbox, the R380 gearbox has a pump to run a gearbox oil cooler. Unless there is some reason not to, I’m going to use a small gearbox oil reservoir in addition to the cooler or if it is simpler/easier use a bit of an over sized gearbox oil cooler to have plenty of gear oil to keep it cool. If possible, I’m going to use a gearbox oil filter also if possible. I don’t know if the pr the gearbox oil pump is able to push gear oil through a filter or not, have to find out if this is doable or not though. Keeping oil clean and cool can make really improve the life of components. In warmer climates most R380s are equipped wit the oil pump & cooler. The R380 tends to run a bit warm from what I understand. I’ll be using Amsoil Synthetic oils in everything. Cheers, Allen
  7. There has been a bit of a design drift since posting the pics of the rear tub being disassembled. :-D I originally wanted to build it as a 100” , but when I started this project there were so many unknowns (for me anyway) that I didn’t want to add to many design changes. But as the build progressed & I learned more, figured things out decided to build it as a100”. Rather than cutting and extending the chassis I built, which is finished. I’m just going to build another chassis as a 100”. I learned a few things building the first one and enjoyed building it. I figured out a lighter and easier way to build the rear cross member. This time I’m having the parts plasma cut, instead of me cutting everything out with angle grinder & cutoff disc. Saves a lot of time & effort and won’t cost much to have it cut for me, from my patterns. The other big design drift is the engine. Decided to use a Mercedes OM603 6 cylinder diesel. I found one (actually an 87’ 300D car) real cheap. So going to sell the 300Tdi. The OM603 fits nicely in the engine bay and is being rebuilt to new specs/tolerances & with a few mods & upgrades. the pump is being rebuilt with 7.5mm elements, custom exhaust manifold, & hybrid k14 fast spool turbo. It will make 270hp-280hp and 325ft/lb 440Nm torque. The rebuilt to new specs/tolerances & strengthened R380 Stubby shouldn’t have problems handling the torque if driven with a bit of common sense. I’m starting a thread in the Modified Vehicle Builds and Special Projects forum here, about the OM603 engine build to go into the SIIA 100” Cheers, Allen
  8. I started a thread about the bulkhead build. Thought it might be helpful if there was a thread just about the bulkhead being built for future reference.
  9. Dave is making progress. :-) One of those is mine! :-) Test fitting using an old instrument panel.
  10. I contacted Like at DPUK to verify what the torque will be and to find out if the torque can be reduced without reducing the hp. It is capable of making 400ft/lb 543Nm of torque and it can be reduced by turning down the fuel screws, without changing the hp output. The torque can be reduced to 325ft/lb 440Nm no problem. I’m not wanting to run 400ft/lb 543Nm through the R380. :-) From what I understand the R380, with the bigger bearings and driven with a bit of common sense can handle 325ft/lb 440Nm reasonably well. We shall see. :-) i have a build thread here in the Series forum and a build page on FB that has more details and pics at: facebook.com/69Series2A/ I’m going to start a thread in this form on building the OM603 to go into the 69’ SIIA 100”. Cheers, Allen
  11. Lol ok fair point, let’s put the proviso that I’ve spent over 2 years designing and building this truck, don’t plan on ever selling it and I’m not one to thrash it, will actually use it, but not abuse it. i don’t want to have to baby it and not use it as it’s designed & built to be utilized, but I’m not a idiot. Lol Cheers, Allen
  12. I know this has been talked about and have heard different opinions. How much hp & torque can a R380, rebuilt to new specs/tolerances and strengthened where possible, machining the case to take the bigger bearing and anything else that can be done to build it stronger. from what I understand, it’s not just higher power that is hard on them, but bigger 4 cylinder diesels can be especially hard on them because of the power impulses. Im rebuilding a Mercedes OM603 6 cylinder diesel for the 69” SIIA 100” I’m building. Rebuilding it to new specs/tolerances, balancing rotating assembly, rebuilt pump with 7.5mm elements, DPUK quick spool hybrid k14 turbo & custom manifold, set up for low end power. It will make a 270-280 hp & 400ft/lb (543n-m) torque and will be very smooth. Ollie North is building the adapter & custom flywheel and Clutchfix is making R380/Tdi clutch good for over 400ft/lb. using rebuilt & strengthened LT230, FJ60 diffs & modified axle housings with RCV chromoly axles. So rest of drive line is capable of handling the power. Im not concerned about the hp, from what I understand the 270-280hp, especially in a smooth 6 cylinder isn’t going to be a problem. But not sure how much torque the built & strengthened R380 can reliably handle. I know there are people that say the R380 is weak and can’t handle much power. Then others say it handles higher power well. I would think there is a substantial difference between an old, tired used gearbox vs a properly built and strengthened one also. Thoughts? Cheers, Allen
  13. The reason I wanted the measurements is I decided to build another chassis and build the 69’ SIIA as a 100”. Other than needing to get a pair of 109 tub side panels and building another chassis nows the time to go build it as a 100”. Want to build another chassis anyway, since I learn a good bit from building the first one. This one will go together quick. Im adding 10” just behind the middle cross member and 2” behind the rear axle. Wanted to know the dimensions of the 90 & 110 rear overhang for reference. Cheers, Allen
  14. I typed this yesterday, guess I didn’t hit send! Lol
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