abosely

See, that’s why I post pics & info here, so you guys don’t have to decide between logging into FB or licking your armpits! 😄 Cheers, Allen

I made a FB new page that focuses on the build as a 100”. facebook.com/built100inch/ It will be a bit before I get it written and have pics up. But check it out & let me know what you think. Cheers, Allen

I made a FB page that focuses on the build as a 100”. facebook.com/built100inch/ It will be a bit before I get it written and have pics up. But check it out & let me know what you think. Cheers, Allen

I would love to be able to do that too! But it’s above my skill grade. But that’s right up Dave Marshs’ alley! Cheers, Allen

That’s good to hear, I don’t have any experience with R380 yet. I’ll put an oil pump & run a gearbox cooler, and put temp labels on it to know what the temperatures really are. I’ll be using an Allisport Defender full width radiator with twin 13.5” fans & 2 built in oil coolers. One for the gearbox & one for the power steering. Engine oil cooler will be separate. The inlets & outlets can be rearranged as needed when ordering it. I like that super magnetic drain plug! Cheers, Allen

I concur, I’ll be running an oil cooler for the gearbox, the R380 gearbox has a pump to run a gearbox oil cooler. Unless there is some reason not to, I’m going to use a small gearbox oil reservoir in addition to the cooler or if it is simpler/easier use a bit of an over sized gearbox oil cooler to have plenty of gear oil to keep it cool. If possible, I’m going to use a gearbox oil filter also if possible. I don’t know if the pr the gearbox oil pump is able to push gear oil through a filter or not, have to find out if this is doable or not though. Keeping oil clean and cool can make really improve the life of components. In warmer climates most R380s are equipped wit the oil pump & cooler. The R380 tends to run a bit warm from what I understand. I’ll be using Amsoil Synthetic oils in everything. Cheers, Allen

There has been a bit of a design drift since posting the pics of the rear tub being disassembled. :-D I originally wanted to build it as a 100” , but when I started this project there were so many unknowns (for me anyway) that I didn’t want to add to many design changes. But as the build progressed & I learned more, figured things out decided to build it as a100”. Rather than cutting and extending the chassis I built, which is finished. I’m just going to build another chassis as a 100”. I learned a few things building the first one and enjoyed building it. I figured out a lighter and easier way to build the rear cross member. This time I’m having the parts plasma cut, instead of me cutting everything out with angle grinder & cutoff disc. Saves a lot of time & effort and won’t cost much to have it cut for me, from my patterns. The other big design drift is the engine. Decided to use a Mercedes OM603 6 cylinder diesel. I found one (actually an 87’ 300D car) real cheap. So going to sell the 300Tdi. The OM603 fits nicely in the engine bay and is being rebuilt to new specs/tolerances & with a few mods & upgrades. the pump is being rebuilt with 7.5mm elements, custom exhaust manifold, & hybrid k14 fast spool turbo. It will make 270hp-280hp and 325ft/lb 440Nm torque. The rebuilt to new specs/tolerances & strengthened R380 Stubby shouldn’t have problems handling the torque if driven with a bit of common sense. I’m starting a thread in the Modified Vehicle Builds and Special Projects forum here, about the OM603 engine build to go into the SIIA 100” Cheers, Allen

I started a thread about the bulkhead build. Thought it might be helpful if there was a thread just about the bulkhead being built for future reference.

More progress.

Dave is making progress. :-) One of those is mine! :-) Test fitting using an old instrument panel.

I contacted Like at DPUK to verify what the torque will be and to find out if the torque can be reduced without reducing the hp. It is capable of making 400ft/lb 543Nm of torque and it can be reduced by turning down the fuel screws, without changing the hp output. The torque can be reduced to 325ft/lb 440Nm no problem. I’m not wanting to run 400ft/lb 543Nm through the R380. :-) From what I understand the R380, with the bigger bearings and driven with a bit of common sense can handle 325ft/lb 440Nm reasonably well. We shall see. :-) i have a build thread here in the Series forum and a build page on FB that has more details and pics at: facebook.com/69Series2A/ I’m going to start a thread in this form on building the OM603 to go into the 69’ SIIA 100”. Cheers, Allen

Lol ok fair point, let’s put the proviso that I’ve spent over 2 years designing and building this truck, don’t plan on ever selling it and I’m not one to thrash it, will actually use it, but not abuse it. i don’t want to have to baby it and not use it as it’s designed & built to be utilized, but I’m not a idiot. Lol Cheers, Allen

I know this has been talked about and have heard different opinions. How much hp & torque can a R380, rebuilt to new specs/tolerances and strengthened where possible, machining the case to take the bigger bearing and anything else that can be done to build it stronger. from what I understand, it’s not just higher power that is hard on them, but bigger 4 cylinder diesels can be especially hard on them because of the power impulses. Im rebuilding a Mercedes OM603 6 cylinder diesel for the 69” SIIA 100” I’m building. Rebuilding it to new specs/tolerances, balancing rotating assembly, rebuilt pump with 7.5mm elements, DPUK quick spool hybrid k14 turbo & custom manifold, set up for low end power. It will make a 270-280 hp & 400ft/lb (543n-m) torque and will be very smooth. Ollie North is building the adapter & custom flywheel and Clutchfix is making R380/Tdi clutch good for over 400ft/lb. using rebuilt & strengthened LT230, FJ60 diffs & modified axle housings with RCV chromoly axles. So rest of drive line is capable of handling the power. Im not concerned about the hp, from what I understand the 270-280hp, especially in a smooth 6 cylinder isn’t going to be a problem. But not sure how much torque the built & strengthened R380 can reliably handle. I know there are people that say the R380 is weak and can’t handle much power. Then others say it handles higher power well. I would think there is a substantial difference between an old, tired used gearbox vs a properly built and strengthened one also. Thoughts? Cheers, Allen

The reason I wanted the measurements is I decided to build another chassis and build the 69’ SIIA as a 100”. Other than needing to get a pair of 109 tub side panels and building another chassis nows the time to go build it as a 100”. Want to build another chassis anyway, since I learn a good bit from building the first one. This one will go together quick. Im adding 10” just behind the middle cross member and 2” behind the rear axle. Wanted to know the dimensions of the 90 & 110 rear overhang for reference. Cheers, Allen

I typed this yesterday, guess I didn’t hit send! Lol

Thanks AV8R! :-) Cheers, Allen

What is the measurement from rear axle center to rear of tub/cross member for the 90 and 110? I've looked everywhere I could think of and haven't found these measurements. Cheers, Allen

Not sure which part you are referring to. He is making complete bulkheads ready to fit the vent flaps. You can ask Dave, he’s on FB as Dave Marsh and as Westlakes All Wheel Drive. Cheers, Allen

I have a build thread here and on FB 69’ Series SIIA Build going. But thought the new bulkheads Dave Marsh of Westlaked All Wheel Drive is building could use its own thread, Serial #1 is my bulkhead. Here are the footwells, door posts & feet for serial #1. Here are the lazer cut out, pieces for 4 bulkheads. Here are some bulkhead parts formed and made this morning. As Sherlock Holmes’ lesser known brother Sherlock Appartment, would say, “The building is afoot!” I will post more pics as they come. Cheers, Allen

This is what the lazer cut out pieces for 4 SII/A bulkheads look like. Here are a few parts made from those pieces Dave Marsh of Westlakes All Wheel Drive, this morning. It’s happening! :-D Cheers, Allen

Yep, using FJ60 power steering box, mounts on outside of left rail, 4 bolts through rail with crush tubes and ¼” plates on both side of rail. The ¼” plates are also front spring hanger components. Cheers, Allen

A small but exciting progress, the footwells, pillars & feet for my bulkhead that Dave Marsh is building have arrived at his shop. The laser cut parts for the bulkhead was supposed to be delivered this week also, but the laser cutting place is behind. So will be next Wednesday or Thursday before they can be picked up. Dave will be spending the last week of this month working like a busy bee on it. So will be able to be put in the crate with everything else and start its journey the the Big Island! :-) Cheers, Allen

I got everything removed from the tub, ready to be soda blasted to bare metal. All brackets, braces, cappings, stiffeners are removed. The only places that I won’t be able to strip down to bare metal is the factory lap joints, and there isn’t any corrosion in them at all. Using all YRM parts for rebuilding the tub, except for cappings being stripped & regalvanized. The floor is all new YRM parts underneath and their 3mm floor. All the stiffeners, braces and such are new HD YRM parts. Getting their tub liner in smooth (no checker plate!) but not using the tub liner kits floor because have the HD 3mm floor. The two rear quarter panels are being replaced with pair of Paintman Panels ones. Reason for removing and using all new braces & stiffeners, is when I took them off they were packed full of mud & sand. There was no provision for the debris to get out. So will make drainage openings for everything that has any kind of a cavity. Plus each piece will be coated with Buzzweld coatings on all sides before riveting on and the mounting surfaces will likewise be coated first. Defanatly will eliminate the possibility of this happening again. More on FB page 69’ Series IIA Build. Cheers, Allen

The chassis is basically done. Few little things to do after the engine, gearbox, TC & springs get here to determine location of motor mounts, under bell housing & gearbox bolt in cross members will be. The two bolt in cross members are finished & I threw a coat of primer for temporary, they will be sand blasted down to bare metal when prepping for Buzzweld 2K Armor, CIO & WAR. The extended shock towers are mocked-up in approx location. Shocks will be 12”- 14” front & rear. After springs arrive & can check range of articulation. I cut the sheet metal diff cover off the front housing. It incorporated a thin reinforcing ring in it. So I made a reinforcing ring out of 3/16” material and welded it around inner & outer perimeter. This gives a bit extra material so when the diff ring is ground dead flat have plenty of material. This also give more material when it is drilled & tapped for the Ruff Stuff diff cover. It makes it about a 1/16” thicker than the rear one, I don’t mind as the front is going to take more hits anyway. This shows the housing extension sleeve on the short side & reinforcing ring where was machined, the long side just has a reinforcing ring on the machined part. My FB page, 69’ Series IIA Build, has more informations & pics about all of it. Cheers, Allen

It’s not that much heavier than the stock one, I mean yes it’s heavier, but I can lift the front off the saw horse easily enough. the rear is heavier of course, but people put bumpers & things on the back of some. Its going to be a rag top. With the tuned 300Tdi, Stubby R380 & LT230 and lowish gears she should move along fine. Compared to some of the loaded overland 200/300Tdi 110s I’ve seen, she’ll be almost light weight! Lol But yes, if she hits anything other than an immovable object, it’s going to crumple and hurt what she hits! Wsit till you see the Camel Trophy style bumper & bull bar she’s getting. It’s going to be a bull bar, no brush bar here. ;-) Well trianglated bracing to handle front impact from pushing bumper or bar back. Cheers, Allen