JST

one place left.

just note that most people drove this section so it looks like your ropes get more use than most too!.

i had a GKN one for 80k miles, it was great. ok the speed sensor failed at 79k miles but it made little odds. i loved mine.

when i had a td5 i looked at these options, in the end i went for an overdrive (i had a GKN one, but roverdrive still do overdrives. one for sale on D2 forum currently) the benefit being a 6th gear without losing the low down grunt for towing. having said that a 1.2box in a disco doesnt sturggle for towing in hilly areas but then RD of tyres is less. another solution fit bigger tyres to see what it would be like, it would be similar to fitting a1.2 over a 1.4 box if you get the OD right for the increase. last 1.2box with difflock i sold for £50.

yes. break the ABS feed. obviously ABS will also stop working. or pull the fuse or pump the brake pedal 10x when stationary, cant remember the time frame (10s?) , ETC will stay off until ign is cycled.

not meant to be taken the wrong way and not criticism more so swinging the lantern, but can you remember that far back?

materials and bearings i believe

was this not the original question?

was this not the original question?

Dpost

i thought she was with Brendan.....................

rover 75 or similar has them, Marcus picked one up from a scrappy for £15.

interesting point Si, i have just changed provider having been with the NFU for 15years or so with several 6 policies it seems they didnt want my business any more. i digress, moving to a new company with no no claims was cheaper than having 6+ yrs.! i now run a fleet policy which was the same price as what the NFU wanted for the 110 alone on reflection i haven't just changed i changed 12mths ago, time just went quick that all!

does anyone have recommendations for a button to do wipers and wash wipe so an extra (passenger) button could be fitted. Pikey - ok, will do

it will take some moving! Nicked a tyre again there on J33P nov event even knowing where it was!. best bet is a sledge to it or similar. its in the narrow section towards the end of hidden valley approx 100m before the new river cut through/bypass the side slope route, you opened up. ie just as you come into the narrow pine section.

i think in relation to KOV12 and punctures there was one particular rock in hidden valley that could be attributed to 99 % of the punctures at the event. (Excluding Philons!) it was just a characteristic of the route. As Chris says the smaller the side wall (which is where it got you) the less chance of a puncture. also the narrower your rims compared to tread width and the narrower the vehicle track the more chance you have of avoiding it. we had a puncture on the shake down in hidden valley with J33P then another on the actual event same place, same gash in side wall. once i knew where it was we went around it all front left. other than that if you run suitable tyre pressures as a mix for conditions and speed and dont drive like you stole it i dont think you will many tyre issues. we ran Fedimas, with 20psi. i think MTs would be just as good for KOV if the route was similar to KOV12 last point, its already mentioned, Reliability is the key. we were slow but steady but finished.

or just the wind speed. wont it pick up more interference lower down?

thats fair enough!

cheers Ralph, i have the relay from the front wiper so will use that.

i've done them on 33" MTs a while back with J33P it took alot longer and less gusto though otherwise CVs would of been going, the 33" drop into and stick in smaller holes of which there are many whilst the larger tyres dont get stuck in them.

sticking pistons? does it brake straight?

earth should go to the bottom of the winch motor to the battery for best results. fit an albright as suggested. if you connect A and F1 with a short jumper lead then connect Motor earth to -ve then connect F2 to the battery +ve what happens? if its squealing and trying to move then something is adrift. and gets hot then a dead short does the motor work wired as above when off the winch? obviously hold the centre in place with a bearing holder first! if that bolt through the bumper goes into the winch motor too, it isin't too long is it? ie the stud is sticking up too far into the winch motor body?

Pikey - i have found the stalk complete, in a rush? in answer to my question i have found the answer here:http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic11573.html?highlight=rear+wiper+relay

Pikey - i think i have a spare stalk here you can have. i have followed the links for the rear intermittent link and these refer to the the twist dial/button on the dash. Has anyone wired in intermittent for the rear on a later td5/puma vehicle?

just make your own with proper fuel pipe to push over the std OEM plastic pipe and then direct onto the lift pump/FiP