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Milemarker Type S

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Everything posted by Milemarker Type S

  1. I would either give Jake at D4X4 a call or indeed copy this post on the D4X4 forum to get the correct information from the horses mouth. Si
  2. Good enough for me- but then I am not judging it! Best speak nicely to Ian Never had an issue as far as I am aware Si- does seem a bit of a p1ss take to expect you to pay even more than you do for the pitch...
  3. If you are going for a Polyurethane bush then go Superpro (wouldn't bother with any other make)- if not then go genuine.
  4. Ladies and Gents, Difflock.com have 6 pairs of tickets for the LRO Billing Show- 27th to 29th of July 2012 to give away Either click here or email them at advertising@difflock.com with a short statement of why you should win them (need to include a phone number so they can contact the winner and entries close 19th July) Si
  5. Failed/ failing wheel bearing gets my vote... either way jack up that corner and have a waggle of the wheel.
  6. I was thinking exactly the same- for the drum to feel loose the propshaft nuts would have to be loose as well. The screws will only hold it in place while the prop is off... and even then I would not drive it on the road like it as they have been known to come undone and the handbrake drum take itself off for a spin...
  7. As above it is a breather that if left open can allow water etc into the fuel pump- not good. Barbed fitting are available to allow the rubber end to mate to the normal breather hose used in wading kits so it can be joined to the rest for the breather hoses.
  8. The EU directive banning 'frontal protection system' at this time only relates to the sale of such items by companies. You can personally fit what you like bullbar/ a bar wise.
  9. Having spent lots of time around people competing with both KAM and Ashcroft kit... my money will be heading for Ashcroft... quality products and top quality after sales service time and time again...
  10. Yes totally different having the exhaust exiting under the truck... I have been running my 200Tdi without any silencers for some time- straight through from the downpipe and out through the rear crossmember. Mine is not actually that noisy and well under the maximum exhaust sound level permitted. Combined with the 3" air intake through the cab and a high flow air filter it sounds rather sweet...
  11. Unfortunately due to very low entry numbers this event has been cancelled. My apologies to those who had entered- you will obviously be refunded in full ASAP.
  12. As has been said a complete 200Tdi Disco is worth peanuts... buy the whole vehicle so you can see the engine running (get an adult to check it over for you if you are worried). Fit engine to your truck and sell the rest/ keep the ancillaries from your existing engine including the head etc etc as spares.
  13. Unfortunately the contents of the kits vary depending on manufacturer/ supplier... IMHO Superpro is the best option for polyurethane bushes- 3 year warranty included. Not as cheap as the pattern part kits but are a fit and forget option.
  14. Absolutely brilliant... Just got shouted at by the other half for laughing to loud... 'Can't be that funny she says...' I beg to differ! Not sure I could cope with a whole book of these mishaps!- may have to stop reading too ofetn to let the ribs stop hurting!!! Now when is it that you an Nige are starting on that engine overhaul together?
  15. If nothing else needs doing the just split the swivels complete from the ends of the axle case. I 'think' the diffs on both should be the same- 10 spline. 24 spline I think was introduced with the 300Tdi in 1994?- stand to be corrected! Si
  16. Impact gun if you have one/ access to one... air or 12v. If not then a good old breaker bar with some muscle on the end- you might find it helps to have someone standing on the brake pedal- or if on your own wind the brake adjusters fully in to lock up the rear wheels- Without the rear wheels being positively locked I have found the tendency for the wheels to try to drive over any chocks etc when you get a bit excited on the breaker bar! You might find if you update your location that some kindly person with a 12v impact gun might take pity on you and pop round!
  17. As above- the quickest way is to unbolt the whole swivels from the end of the axle- should be able to withdraw them far enough to pull the diff out without disconnecting brake lines etc. There is a fair amount of unecessary work to be done if you strip the whole lot and pull the stub shafts off- that is unless they could do with being stripped, cleaned and regreased anyway?! Si
  18. I personally would go with plan B for an expedition based vehicle- you do not need the speed or additional weight of the 8274. With the prices they achieve second hand in good condition you probably would not be far off a TDS goldfish (my personal preference for a low line electric winch) and winch bumper.
  19. The next CSW event will be held on Sunday the 15th August 2010 at Cotton Farm, Cruwys Morchard, Tiverton, Devon EX16 8LY, UK. The grid reference is SS 893 100. The event is aimed at newcomers and novices to the sport but more experienced competitors are more than welcome- the event will be tailored to suit the entries we recieve to keep everyone busy for the whole day. There will be a number of experienced club members available on the day to help and advise anyone who feels they need it during the event. The event will consist of a number of punches of varying difficulty located around the site and there will also be a number of optional special stages or tasks to attempt. The event will run from 1000 to 1600 with scruitineering opening at 0900. Costs are £45 if entered and paid before the 14th of August, £50 if paid on the 14th and £55 if paid on the day of the event. All competitors would usually be required to be club members however for this event only 'day membership' to the club will be included in the entry fee to allow people to try before they buy! Any questions please ask! Further details and entry is available via the CSW Website Simon
  20. I would definitely look at loctiting them and checking them regularly Mo- I know it is a pain to take the wheels off to do so but they do seem to work loose on a regular basis... saves having one fly off when you really dont want it to!
  21. Thank you Bish- very well put... Sounds like it may well have been an operation to address a specific percieved problem- in which case the Officers are unlikely to have the option of using discretion though likewise there is no such thing as 'point' scoring- they don't get gain anything personally for issuing a ticket... We all know that there are those who deliberately stray from the correct route on the Plain, and indeed on other ROW etc- it is not easy to weed out the ones who have made a genuine mistake from the ones who just could not care less unfortunately. Si
  22. The direct drive system shown above is 'Old Spots' for a Disco 200Tdi in a defender- mine is much the same for a factory 200Tdi defender...The crank adapter and cradle are slightly different for both applications. Both fit with the engine and rad in the original position- neither will fit on a factory 300Tdi. If you don't want to move the rad and don't want to go PTO you are limited to an electric hydraulic power pack- generally farly low flow rate- or a belt/chain drive from the crank... I would ignore chain cos it is just too damn scarey... If you are looking at belts then I would speak to Neal (v. nice man!) at Red Winches who are now supplying this as a bolt on option driven by a syncronous (timing) belt... Linky Si
  23. Correct me if I am wrong but are there not two seperate relays?- one for hazard lights and one for indicators... So your indicator one has packed up
  24. Yes they are all 52mm- the 1/2" drive version is not as deep as the box spanners so has issues with the wider hubs as fitted to later defenders etc.
  25. As above Difflock sell 3 kinds of sockets for 52mm hub nuts- 1/2" drive socket, 3/4" drive/ tommy bar box spanner and a basic tommy bar box spanner. Si
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