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Posts posted by adam5809
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as above what methods do you use for removing stuck on gaskets?
or does it just come down to carefully scraping with a sharp stanley balde as i am doing at the moment?
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its not gloss black, i use the Red oxide paint from screwfix, found it to be very tough and cheap too
then waxoil the hell out of it. being red underneath its easy to see when the wayoil rubs off
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Sorry if this has been covered before. I did do a search but turned up nothing useful.
Can anyone point me in the direction of a bulkhead supplier, preferably galvanised, may as well do the job properly.
Or is it just a case of resorting to the bay-of-E
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after a bit of digging around, it seems our friends from the land down under have been have similar disscusions
it appears since maxidrive shut down a company in Brisbane called M R Automotive (no its not as catchy ) took over production
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This might be a bit of a noddy question, but are either of the two clutchs on the site below a straight bolt on for the LT230 PTO?
is the LT230 PTO designed to a standard (ISo or whaterver) so you can go to a supplier and say i need a clutch to fit this? or is it a Solihull special?
if it makes any differance its an LT230 on a 1988 2.5TD 90
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Hi All,
As above im trying to get a rear suspension A-frame from weston super mare to Yateley in north hampshire
Is anyone travelling that way in the next couple of weeks?
Will gladly reimburse any extra fuel etc with beer tokens
Cheers
Adam
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yea, mine smokes too, still going strong at 133000 though so im not overly worried
my mates have started calling the truck Ozone after its smoking habit on startup, their not the most creative bunch
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Excuse the highjack, but can anyone suggest a cheap alternative to the rather pricey silicone hoses for plumbing in intercoolers?
I have one sat in the garage just need to fit it
Cheers
Adam
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As above the merc sprinter intercoolers are good, the one i have seems to be the same size as the radiator
I just need to get round to fitting it
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Hi all, hope someone might be able to help.
Ive just recived new rear upper link (a-frame) bushes P/N ANR4164
Problem is the bolt I took out the old ones was a 19mm bolt and these new bushs have a 16mm central hole.
Can anyone advise what the correct size bolt? and if it is the 19mm then the correct P/N for the bush i need.
It may be it is the wrong bolt, the previous owner seems to have been a bit of a bodger, i have found a few things that have worried me as ive been taking it apart.
Thanks in advance
Adam
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Well as usual a small job snow balls, but the short story is yes theve rusted away
Cheers for that number
Adam
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Does any one have the part number for the upper rear sping retainer plate
Its a 1988 90
Cheers
Adam
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Does any one have the part number for the upper rear shock absorber brackets
Its a 1988 90
Cheers
Adam
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Carl,
Im going to be up there week after next, where are you based, arrange a relay? PM me
Adam
Will he not allow the courier to collect from him, would save some hassle,Carl.
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As above, im a great beliver in giving credit where it is due.
Have had a couple of order from L.R.Series
Both well packed, good prices and delivered ahead of schedule
Would recommend them any time
Well done guys!
Adam
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Thanks all, looks like im going to be visiting my tame fixings supplier tomorow
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Hi all,
I'm currently in the process of changing the A-Frame Ball joint.
Problem is while unding the bolts to remove the holder from the arms i has managed to shear off both off them (yes they have been soaking in WD40 for a couple of days)
so can any one tell me the specs on those bolts so i can replace them?
FYI is a 1988 90 if that makes any differance
Cheers
Adam
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Cheers Gents,
Already tried the WD40 and beating with fists
However tommi that is exactly the gadget i was looking for
Thanks all
Adam
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Hi All,
I need to get the steering wheel off to do some work on the control stalks and electrics but its been on for 20 years and well and truly stuck.
I have read somewhere about people making there own puller out of a piece of bar, drilling and tapping holes and things (did a search of the forum, didnt find anything)
Could someone point me in the right direction, or tell me what size holes i need to drill etc.
FYI its a 1988 90
Cheers
Adam
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I have had the Land Rover a little over a year.
the rattling on release of clutch has only started in the last week, and the starting problem started on Saturday.
When it stops raining I will go out and check the stop solenoid and report back.
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Hello all,
This is going to be a bit of a strange one for you I think.
I am having a problem with starting the Land Rover. Starter motor spins and solenoid works.
However if the gearbox is in neutral or first it just spins, any other gear, reverse, second, third, forth or fifth starts fine. (Transfer in neutral as well of course)
It seems like it may be related, but a mechanic mate of mine said the clutch release bearing is giving up (rattling when clutch released in neutral), new clutch and parts on the way.
Any ideas what may be causing this?
FYI it’s a 1988 2.5TD 90
300tdi into land rover 90
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I've just done the conversion, all the color coded wires match up.
The only ones you really need on the new engine going into the old engine bay are from the alternator, water temp, oil pressure, glow plugs and stop solenoid.
There were a bunch of others for the air con pump, and electronic fuel pump (the engine was from a discovery) which i just took off because they are not needed.
I spliced the cables with heat shrink rather then buy connectors, no problems yet.