Jump to content


Settled In
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About blz6662

  • Rank

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Location
    St. Briavels, Glos.
  1. Hi all, Does anyone know if RPI Engineering stamp their own number on the V8 engine blocks . I've been treating mine to a new valley gasket and noticed a number stamped on the rear of the block that reads RPIAH********9. Would that be their number? The normal engine number is still present in the usual place and in this case the engine is a 3.9 litre 47A***** 9.36:1 Morgan engine. If it is their number then I hope I can get a build spec off them for interest value. Thanks in advance blz6662
  2. blz6662

    Range Rover Hybrid Cooling Issue

    Yeah, all hoses, stat and fan changed. rad in good condition and not sludged up. Just needs an upgrade as the needle runs 3/4 up the gauge when running around in it. Engine running like a gud'un no issues. Cheers
  3. Hi All, Need some advice on my hybrid running too hot. It's a real Bitsa this one, 84' range rover chassis, defender front end and series 2a everything else. Fitted 3.9 V8 fed by Holley Truck Avenger. My idea was to change out the radiator for a 3.9 range rover rad I have on the shelf but once the tape measure came out it was obvious it was not going in. Too wide (but I could solve that with a bit of fettling), but mainly too deep at 400mm core depth. The one that's fitted is only 300mm deep and much thinner. So can anyone suggest a suitable rad that would fit in the defender front end and no taller than the 300mm core with top left inlet and bottom left outlet (as you look in the bonnet) to suit the V8. I don't mind spending to maybe get a bespoke aluminium made up as long as the capacity is right. Thanks in advance and apologies if I should have put this in the Special Build section blz6662
  4. I've got a 87 classic with 4 " lift plus the cranked radius arms front and rear and running 33's. This is working well by fitting a twin shock kit front and rear using 2 bilsteins shocks at each corner - handles fantastic. Had a few mates who thought is was the end through a few interesting flowing bends at speed - just smile and wave. It's a great towing truck also. Might be an option
  5. Thanks Bowie69, good news - best get on with it then!
  6. Hi All, To start, sorry if this is a dull question. I have a Disco 1 1997 V8 donor vehicle with an extremely good steering box (straight arm STC2846) which I want to fit to my Range Rover Classic 1987 V8 EA Chassis. This vehicle has the bent drop arm NTC1580 steering box fitted. I need to do a quick swop without getting into 'drop arm wars' so the intention was to remove each box with drop arm and steering bar removed at the passenger side (Disco has 4 ball joints total/Range Rover 3 ball joints). Then refit onto opposite vehicles as I need to move the donor Disco around the yard. So, will these boxes exchange ok with their relative rods? Also are the splines the same on these boxes as I will fit the correct drop arm and steering rod at a later date. The Range Rover is not used on the road at the moment just estate duties. Thanks in advance blz6662
  7. Hi Guys, My Disco was fitted with a new engine at 45,000 miles before I had it, due to a cracked block and the engine has a number YM00MO7L1. Out of curiosity I would like to know who the supplier/remanufacturer is. Any of you guys see this type of number before? Cheers blz6662
  8. blz6662

    Didco 1 temp gauge reading

    Sorry about the title Guys - Should be Disco 1 temp gauge reading. Must sharpen my fingers
  9. blz6662

    Didco 1 temp gauge reading

    Hi all, Can anyone help with a small niggle with my 3.5 efi V8 (1992 hotwire auto). After getting the old girl back on the road and flying through the MOT I've done a few hundred miles (a good shakedown after major refurb) and all good except one small niggle. Initially the temp gauge always held steady right in the middle of the gauge as previous refurb, but over the miles on start-up to the first opening of the stat the gauge climbs just a couple of mm above centre line (nowhere near the next mark though). After this it tends to drop back almost to centre but not quite, so I fitted a new genuine 84 degree stat as already fitted. After bleeding out the air and having a good run it's still the same. I have now run the truck about another 150 miles since then and is still the same, although the needle is not getting any higher in traffic or under load. Just this couple of mm over centre and almost bang on centre. Any ideas? the system now has new antifreeze, no movement or noise from water pump, radiator in excellent order and new top & bottom hoses. Could this be the water pump loosing efficiency or something else I need to prepare for. The Disco is running beautifully, smooth, no missing etc. Thanks in advance for your thoughts blz6662
  10. Hi all, Just require your comments or thoughts on this one. Currently rebuilding an EA Chassis Range Rover Classic currently fitted with it's original 3.5 V8 efi (Flapper) engine with manual box and have the chance of buying a cheap scruffy 1997 Discovery 1 3.9 V8 efi (Hot Wire) also with manual box. The engine and box are in fine fettle and has an mot for about six months, but it will fail the next one on welding (lots) plus various other problems. So my intension is to strip the Disco and transplant the 3.9 complete with it's loom etc. into the Classic. Does this seem a feasible thing to do as the 3.5 is past it's sell by date and needs a rebuild. Cheers blz6662
  11. Hi sierrafery, All done and working perfectly. Many thanks for your help. If any of you guys get a similar problem don't spend loads of time and money searching and replacing good parts, just do the live test down each circuit and if you get what I had rewire to 2 circuits. Not too bad a job but does take a while to do properly. Cheers blz6662
  12. Yep, I'm back again! Spent hours yesterday trying to trace the splices, unwrapping insulation tape, removing conduit etc and managed only to trace to a blue multi-pin plug for the front RH indicator and a white multi-pin for the front LH indicator. To test the connection to the RH pin I ran a direct live and the front bulb failed to light. Did the same on the LH side and the bulb lit up so all good. This leaves me with the task of finding the repeater lights and the rear lights splice/connection points. To be honest with finding a problem with the front RH circuit from the multi plug I am tempted to forget the search and just run complete new cables to front, rear and repeaters from DF1 as the task is so time consuming, cable carnage and awkward. Because the hazard switch DF2 is one unit with DF1 stalk I'm assuming the link wires GR & GW are built into the switch unit and not actual wire runs. Note also on the Land Rover Manual diagram I attached, they have actually got the GR &GW the wrong way around!! Let me have your thoughts on this one before I upset anymore wiring Cheers Baden
  13. Great, thanks for your help I'll just need some luck finding the joint. I'll start at the stalk and work my way forward. Tried doing it from the engine side earlier and got lost. I'll let you know how I get on. Once again many thanks Baden
  14. Ok, Here we go again - Snagger checked the wiring up to the bulkhead, undone some of the insulation tape local to where the indicator harness is bound to the lighting harness. Nothing visible so checked under the bonnet for dodgy stuff and again undo/inspected anything sub standard but no joy. Went through the live feed to each technique again - (As previous the plug was disconnected from the indicator stalk and live feed down each side). This time as before GW wire lit up all lights. Retested GR wire and all lights came on as per GW wire! Maybe my earlier test connection wasn't good enough. The other thing was when I disconnected the live link wire the clip and wire were getting really hot after only a 20 second test each side. Just for info there are 2 GR wires in the one pin (factory fit - not an add on) and only 1 GW wire feeding the other pin. Checked voltage with the connector plugged into the stalk and operated each indicator side - 12volts each. Sierrafery, your wiring diagram is very similar the the official manual.
  15. OK, now fitted a 10A fuse and this is the result. GW wires powered up - ALL lights come on including repeaters GR wires powered up - Nothing at all, not even a glimmer or glow from any light. I've just been looking al the loom plugs and checking earths under bonnet and wings looking for the obvious but now found anything yet. Can you suggest the best way forward for me to go in order to trace this fault. Cheers Baden

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy