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About blz6662

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    St. Briavels, Glos.

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  1. Thanks garrycol, that looks like the solution Kind regards blz6662
  2. Hi All, Got a strange one here, every few days or so (well, random really), when I turn the ignition key to position 3 starter position I sometimes just get a small whine and no turning from the starter motor. When I turn the key back to zero and try again it catches straight away and starts up. Very occasionally is will whine twice on trying. It's getting a bit more regular now and worried that that starter will just give up. By the way the car has got a brand new Exide 900 battery fitted. Do you think it's on it's way out, and what makes the whine - perhaps solenoid? I'm thinking of getting ahead on this and buying a new starter and replacing it sooner rather than later. Which starter is recommended and what are these £70 2kw upgraded motors like you see on ebay. Don't really want to pay for a genuine one but don't want a 'carp' one either. Thanks in advance blz6662
  3. Hi, Just FYI - 9mm seal Part no. FTC3401 on FA to WA chassis. with or without ABS Cheers blz6662
  4. Hi there, yes that is correct, I have a 1992 KA Chassis V8 that uses the thinner one if that helps. The 12mm one tends to be found more on early Range Rover Classics Good luck blz6662
  5. Hi Marc Did you get my pm - just checking Baden
  6. Hi Guys, I'm sure some of you have had this problem. First the Hybrid is a CA Chassis 86 with a 12L Suffix A Front Axle. Here's the problem, on rebuilding the front hubs I found I need an off-side half shaft Pt No. 606662 - Now unavailable although Rimmers offer an AEU2520P as a replacement. Therefore I bought this and guess what? Yes it's different and the bronze collar sits in a different place - grrr. Can't find a 606662 anywhere, what are the alternatives now everything is apart? Can I change the half shaft and cv joint & spacer to the EA Chassis onwards - Parts RTC5840 / RTC5843 / RTC5841. Do I need to change the stub axle as well? I assume the swivel ball is the same. I do have front and rear 24 spline diffs & shafts from a 1998 Disco 1 with ABS which I had ear marked for another project. If I'm forced to use these then what shafts, cv joints and stub axle do I need? Cheers Baden
  7. Hi all, Does anyone know if RPI Engineering stamp their own number on the V8 engine blocks . I've been treating mine to a new valley gasket and noticed a number stamped on the rear of the block that reads RPIAH********9. Would that be their number? The normal engine number is still present in the usual place and in this case the engine is a 3.9 litre 47A***** 9.36:1 Morgan engine. If it is their number then I hope I can get a build spec off them for interest value. Thanks in advance blz6662
  8. Yeah, all hoses, stat and fan changed. rad in good condition and not sludged up. Just needs an upgrade as the needle runs 3/4 up the gauge when running around in it. Engine running like a gud'un no issues. Cheers
  9. Hi All, Need some advice on my hybrid running too hot. It's a real Bitsa this one, 84' range rover chassis, defender front end and series 2a everything else. Fitted 3.9 V8 fed by Holley Truck Avenger. My idea was to change out the radiator for a 3.9 range rover rad I have on the shelf but once the tape measure came out it was obvious it was not going in. Too wide (but I could solve that with a bit of fettling), but mainly too deep at 400mm core depth. The one that's fitted is only 300mm deep and much thinner. So can anyone suggest a suitable rad that would fit in the defender front end and no taller than the 300mm core with top left inlet and bottom left outlet (as you look in the bonnet) to suit the V8. I don't mind spending to maybe get a bespoke aluminium made up as long as the capacity is right. Thanks in advance and apologies if I should have put this in the Special Build section blz6662
  10. I've got a 87 classic with 4 " lift plus the cranked radius arms front and rear and running 33's. This is working well by fitting a twin shock kit front and rear using 2 bilsteins shocks at each corner - handles fantastic. Had a few mates who thought is was the end through a few interesting flowing bends at speed - just smile and wave. It's a great towing truck also. Might be an option
  11. Thanks Bowie69, good news - best get on with it then!
  12. Hi All, To start, sorry if this is a dull question. I have a Disco 1 1997 V8 donor vehicle with an extremely good steering box (straight arm STC2846) which I want to fit to my Range Rover Classic 1987 V8 EA Chassis. This vehicle has the bent drop arm NTC1580 steering box fitted. I need to do a quick swop without getting into 'drop arm wars' so the intention was to remove each box with drop arm and steering bar removed at the passenger side (Disco has 4 ball joints total/Range Rover 3 ball joints). Then refit onto opposite vehicles as I need to move the donor Disco around the yard. So, will these boxes exchange ok with their relative rods? Also are the splines the same on these boxes as I will fit the correct drop arm and steering rod at a later date. The Range Rover is not used on the road at the moment just estate duties. Thanks in advance blz6662
  13. Hi Guys, My Disco was fitted with a new engine at 45,000 miles before I had it, due to a cracked block and the engine has a number YM00MO7L1. Out of curiosity I would like to know who the supplier/remanufacturer is. Any of you guys see this type of number before? Cheers blz6662
  14. Sorry about the title Guys - Should be Disco 1 temp gauge reading. Must sharpen my fingers
  15. Hi all, Can anyone help with a small niggle with my 3.5 efi V8 (1992 hotwire auto). After getting the old girl back on the road and flying through the MOT I've done a few hundred miles (a good shakedown after major refurb) and all good except one small niggle. Initially the temp gauge always held steady right in the middle of the gauge as previous refurb, but over the miles on start-up to the first opening of the stat the gauge climbs just a couple of mm above centre line (nowhere near the next mark though). After this it tends to drop back almost to centre but not quite, so I fitted a new genuine 84 degree stat as already fitted. After bleeding out the air and having a good run it's still the same. I have now run the truck about another 150 miles since then and is still the same, although the needle is not getting any higher in traffic or under load. Just this couple of mm over centre and almost bang on centre. Any ideas? the system now has new antifreeze, no movement or noise from water pump, radiator in excellent order and new top & bottom hoses. Could this be the water pump loosing efficiency or something else I need to prepare for. The Disco is running beautifully, smooth, no missing etc. Thanks in advance for your thoughts blz6662
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