blz6662

Hi All, I'd just like to say what a great post this. I will be undertaking the very same task on my Salisbury shortly so this is all extremely helpful. Anyone got a spreader for sale? Cheers Baden

Hi All, Just wanted to know where I can find fitting instructions for fitting the ATB in the LT230 and also the diff version. I see plenty of videos out there but can't find time to watch them, I need to do stuff! Before I buy either / or, I want to assess if I have the skills to do this job myself or send the LT230 and front diff to Mr Ashcroft's team to do. The project is (keeps dropping down the list doing other's series rebuilds), 88 Rangie Classic V8. I have a freshly rebuilt R380/LT230 from Dave ready to go in, but now I've looked at the transfer ATB I want to have one fitted before any lifting/refitting starts. I need to upgrade the front diff (10 spline) so I have a selection of really good front 24 spline diffs I could use and fit the ATB along with the usual HD halfshafts/cv's/mod stubs etc. Rear axle is an disc braked 8H Salisbury off a 96' Defender 110. Thanks in advance Baden

Hi All, OK, this was it, my last go at solving this one. Tried the 2 pin modes above and still the needle hovers around 750 rpm and no movement when revving the engine. So, back tracked and rewired in on all new direct connections my old 'el cheapo' unit previously fitted and when fired up the needle hovers around 3500RPM on idle and spins up to max when lightly revved. This is what it always did, first put in the 1 amp diode - result smoother needle same readings as above. Took that out and put the 20k pot in 2 pin mode and no change at any point on the scale so no good. Right then, one more go, disconnected the Flame Thrower coil and fitted a good DLB198 Lucas 1.5ohm coil as fitted to my 92 disco. Connected up with new Durite tacho standard wiring set-up, no gizmo's, fired up the engine and the tacho did the same again and stuck at 750RPM with no movement on revving. So went though each method again and same result - GIVE UP. The truck has no starting or running issues with either coil and is as sweet as' so time to stop. I don't like being beaten but this has, so this might be a reference guide to anyone with the same set-up as mine. Thanks Fridge for all your help. Cheers Baden

Hi Fridge, I did first of all, try the last 2 options. I'll try the others and report back.

Hi All, OK, here's the latest. Removed the diode I previously trial fitted so all connections restored to original. Wired up the 20k pot. 3 pins facing me, wired the left hand pin with an earth lead, centre pin from negative coil connection (input signal) and right hand pin (output) to rev counter. Result - Nothing!! - no reading, not a blip. Tried various dial positions throughout the range and still nothing. Last attempt, swopped the input / output wiring over - (which would be full ON anti-clockwise) - and yes you've guessed it - nothing. So what am I doing wrong. I think I've given up with this unit and I need to carry on finishing the outer wiring jobs on the truck and put it back in circulation. Got to get the Sankey on the back and get more logs in ready for 'that' time of the year. Any answers gratefully received. Baden

Hi FridgeFreezer, thanks for that, I got it in the post yesterday so will give it a blast asap and post up the results. Kind regards Baden

Thanks for the comment, I've just bought a 20k linear pot, so I'll update when I get it and give it a go. Or perhaps fit a clock instead😀. Any other suggestions welcome. Kind regards Baden

Hi smallfry, The 1.5ohms matches the electronic ignition so ok there, although I did wonder that myself, any ideas welcome. 3 ohm is not suitable from the info I have double checked. Fridge I'll move the diode to the gauge and try again. If I have to fit a different one it will be in the cab. This was only a quick trial to be honest. Maybe I should think about a counter suitable for the alternator W terminal and stop wasting time. I could try the coil one on my series 3 swb station wagon which is standard on points (at the mo).

Thanks guys, Progress last night, I went back through all the connections and tested them and all ok. So I decided to try a more direct earth and 12v supply, result still nothing. In the kit supplied with the counter is a 1 amp rectifier diode and I put this in a jumper wire between the coil negative and the green wire. This is sometimes installed for points type ignition, but thought I would experiment and see what happens. Started the truck and got a reading although low, tried revving it but it stayed fairly constant at 750rpm. Maybe I'm onto something. On the other side of the instructions it talks about a 20k resistor, 3 amp universal diode and 20k linear potentiometer so maybe I need to try down one of these routes. Cheers Baden

Yep, that's the one and I bought it from VWP. Coil get 12v from ignition source to to amp. Negative at the moment to the amp and that's it, as simple as that. Connected green to negative on coil to the lug where the old rev counter was connected (this always read high so replaced with Durite). The alternator fitted has a W terminal, but can't connect as this is a sine wave signal, so no good for my coil type. Thanks for the replies so far. Bigj66 - no ECU carb fed. Cheers Baden

Hi All, I'm hoping this will be a simple one with the install of a new Durite 52mm 0-8000 rpm coil fitment rev counter. The truck has a 3.9 V8 fed via a Holley Truck Avenger Carb, sparks via 1.5ohm Flamethrower coil to a Lucas 35DLM8 electronic distributor and Magnacore leads. No issues with the running of the truck, I just wanted to replace the dodgy chinese rev counter that read all over the place so I bought a Durite one for coil pick-up. The problem is, after following the install guide (pretty simple stuff) and checking all the connections - green wire to negative side of coil - the rev counter is not working, not even a blip. Double checked all connections - rear of unit on selection for 8 cylinders, still nothing. I did contact Durite direct and no reply. Should I have an earth lead from the negative on the coil direct to the block as well? Currently negative only has a connection to the electronic amp on the dizzy. Any Ideas? Kind regards Baden

Hi guys, Measured the R380 from front of bell housing to the face of the transfer box rear output shaft and got 950mm (give or take a couple). Did the same with the LT77 in the vehicle (V8 by the way) and got the same measurement, so thanks again Fridge for you knowledge. Over thinking things again! Cheers all Baden

Thanks Fridge Freezer, That makes sense (for once). When I get a chance I'll measure them. regards Baden

Hi All, I've got a completely rebuilt R380/LT230 gearbox (by Ashcofts) to replace my worn out LT77 box. The R380 is from a V8 3.9 Disco 1 (97) and the RRC is 1988 EA Chassis and I was thinking due to the R380 being 30mm longer will this affect the propshaft lengths? I can't seem to find a sensible answer to this. Some say the front is the same but as my Rangie is lifted I don't want issues. Over to you guys with the knowledge. Cheers Baden

Hi Snagger, That's really good info, I'll have to rethink my projects now armed with that knowledge. I've been reading your website and great work mate. Lots of great articles, help and useful features, keep it up. At the moment I'm about 75% there with a series 3 SWB Station Wagon rebuild which I am trying to stay focused on and get it finished, but my forlorn looking series 2A keeps looking at me saying 'what about me'. Anyway, thanks again for that. Kind regards to All Baden Just for interest, a few of pics of my Hybrid.